Well, I started poking around with the A2400 door, and it didn't take me long to figure out that the acrylic can be easily removed... Perhaps I should have given that a shot in the first place.
So, in anticipation of getting a new A2400 door, I have finished modding the bezel so that it will lie flat on the glass:
Using a hacksaw, I first sawed off the two shorter prongs on the far side of the bezel. Honestly, I have no idea what they were for anyway. I already have pilot threads in the 4 longer prongs for screws, so those are the only prongs I need.
I followed that up with the file on my Leatherman, first using the coarse side to make quicker progress, then using the smooth side to get a better finish. It is now virtually flush with the edge of the bezel:
Any part that sticks out extra (less than a millimeter) won't be a problem because I will simply put that part on a side with the acrylic, as it sits a bit behind the metal part of the door.
For the door dismantling, you can see that there are little prongs with 4 pieces, and a center piece. The 4-pieced prong goes through the hole first, followed by the center piece which expands the 4-pieced prong and makes the connection snug.
To separate the metal and acrylic pieces, simply push down on the center piece until you see the 4-pieced prong close. Then push the 4-pieced prong in completely and both pieces will come out.
Repeat that process for the other 30,000 fasteners on the door, and you now have two easy, separate pieces to work with instead of one pain in the butt that will leave you with a broken heart and salty tears...
I want to test the drill bit on the metal by itself, but my roommate is sleeping so I'll be polite for now. If the drill bit works on the holes that are completely metal (not the edge holes), then I will use it on those and use tin snips on the edges, as the bezel will cover them. I still have to go to the store and get a drill bit specifically for plastic as well. (The door won't be ordered for a while still, so I have plenty of time.)