Adventures in lapping - Page 5 - Overclock.net

insulglass · 12-19-06

Quote:

Originally Posted by leimrod

Better but not great, the one thing I found is that on the easypckits guide it tells you to wet the paper thoroughly before using, when I did this I found the grit would clump up on the sandpaper and leave deep scratchs in the heatsink, that would require going back to a lower grit to remove. So imo, its better to leave the sandpaper dry whilst sanding as the metal dust can easily be wiped/blown away if it is dry. Also I started sanding the heatsink by rotating it in a counterclockwise manner on the higher grits which I found to be effective.

...

Any opinions ideas welcome.

Leimrod - plenty of water really is the way to go. Usually, if I see that someone is experiencing this problem, it is for one of three reasons:

1) Too much pressure/not enough time which breaks the glue bond between the abrasive and the paper

2) Not rinsing the paper frequently enough, causing "loading" of debris on the paper

3) Not beveling the sink edge, which sometimes allows a sharp corner to dig in the paper (i.e., not being held perfectly flat).

Of course, this may not fit your case - but one of these three reasons almost always is the cause of clumping and abrasive separation.

Dry strokes are not recomemnded, because the water acts as a cutting lubricant. Dry sanding with any vigor will prematurely wear the paper; with gentle pressure and plenty of water, I have had some customers get up to four or five lappings out of a single premium kit. The paper is simply engineered for best performance when used wet. :-)

David

insulglass · 12-19-06

Quote:

Originally Posted by waqasr

thats a good lap job..looks very nice..but bear this in mind..your are NOT after a shiny finish..it is SMOOTH and FLAT finish that you want..obviously after sanding so much it will be shiny but shiny is not the objective..also i was wondering...ive lapped my ihs and BT...and used very VERY little bit of AS5..would it have been better to have used nothing at all..as both the surfaces are super flat??

Absolutely correct. FLAT is the goal, not SHINY. But of course, the flatter you get the shinier it will appear. :-)

You will need SOME thermal interface material, but you will want to use as little as possible. For most naked core CPU's, a dollop about th esize of a grain of rice is more than enough. For CPU's with heat shields and more surface area, you might go double that and spread it a bit. Less is definitely better, but it may take some experimenting to determine your optimal amount for your computer.

David

insulglass · 12-19-06

Quote:

Originally Posted by leimrod

have you lapped anything with the paper wet? I'd like to get some advice from people that have because seriously I tried a few different grits, different pressures, different amounts of water, and they all result the same... very scratched. The metal shards would clump together in a paste and could not be removed from the sandpaper, I guess if you are wet sanding you have to wash the paper often, which is the only way I could see to remove it.

Also someone mention the edges wheren't smooth, this is because I beveled them at the start because they where catching on the sandpaper, as long as the area that will be touching the IHS is flat and scratch free then you don't have to worry about the edges... i'm making a thermally efficient HS here, not a dandy copper mirror for your ma

I'll get some brasso tomorrow and see where that gets me, i'll also try buffing it with a felt bit on my dremel and the easypckits finishing solution. After this, my Opty's getting its head shaved off next

bye bye warrenty

When wet sanding, you literally cannot use to much water. I have some customers that lap under running water. :-)

I addressed this more thoroughly in another thread... please use water. More water. Lot's of water.

David

insulglass · 12-19-06

Quote:

Originally Posted by alk

Nice. If you fancy an even shinier finish, get some metal polish on there, like brasso.

Hi - I really do not recommend a chemical cleaner such as Brasso. It is designed to produce shine and can actually alter the flatness if not evenly and properly applied. It can also leave residue behind.

If you DO use Brasso and feel that it performs well for you, PLEASE clean your sink thoroughly before applying the TIM. ArctiClean is the best product for this, followed by (potenitally hazardous!) xylene, then alcohol. IF you use water, don't hesitate to use a blow dryer for a few seconds to dry it well before you install your TIM and sink onto the CPU.

David

leimrod · 12-19-06

Hi Dave... lol did you do a google for easypckits and find this thread

Yeah i've been experimenting around with the kits and the premium one can't be beaten, i've used one of the kits more that 6 times without water and its still going, the only water I use is when I rinse them off when i'm finished.

Its actually funny you should mention about the effects of using brasso, because after doing a few application (some grit got onto the paper and caused a relatively deep scratch, and I was too lazy to have to go back down the grit levels again to remove it) I noticed that when I looked really close at the surface the brasso had caused tiny pock marks on the surface. The only reason I noticed this was because I had 2 lapped HS's together and the one I used brasso on appeared to now be duller than the other one. Still I can't decide what worse, to have the pock marks or have the scratchs?

insulglass · 12-19-06

Quote:

Originally Posted by leimrod

Hi Dave... lol did you do a google for easypckits and find this thread

Yeah i've been experimenting around with the kits and the premium one can't be beaten, i've used one of the kits more that 6 times without water and its still going, the only water I use is when I rinse them off when i'm finished.

Its actually funny you should mention about the effects of using brasso, because after doing a few application (some grit got onto the paper and caused a relatively deep scratch, and I was too lazy to have to go back down the grit levels again to remove it) I noticed that when I looked really close at the surface the brasso had caused tiny pock marks on the surface. The only reason I noticed this was because I had 2 lapped HS's together and the one I used brasso on appeared to now be duller than the other one. Still I can't decide what worse, to have the pock marks or have the scratchs?

Better to have a scratch or two. Once again. FLATNESS is the key. A single scratch (looking at the microscopic level) has very litle effect, while widespread pitting will be caused from the Brasso.

If it were me, I'd drop down a couple of grit levels and hit it a few more strokes, progress up as normal, and clean thoroughly.

David

leimrod · 12-19-06

Heres the 4 happy HS's i've lapped with the premium kit

I had to re-lap them recently as i'd used liquid pro as the TIM. When somebody told me liquid pro would slowly eat into the copper, I quickly removed the heatsinks and to my dismay there was no way to remove the liquid pro. So I had to resand all of them.

In the pic is my Tuniq, HR05, HR05-sli and Opty 165:

atomicfission92 · 12-19-06

hmmmm.... I think I was the one to tell you that..... But you didn't listen.

leimrod · 12-19-06

You where the one, and I did listen? Thanks for dropping by anyway, i've repped you accordingly for the warning. I've posted the damage the stuff caused here in the thread you warned me in.

Freddy_Bobbins · 12-21-06

nice guide leimrod... rep+

i was wondering tho, what should i do if i have thrown away my packaging for my processor!? what should i use to protect it while lapping?

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Adventures in lapping

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