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Old 08-12-07   #21 (permalink)
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i mean for just the hsf... im not doing the proc right away. i'll do it later if i feel the need to do so
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Old 08-12-07   #22 (permalink)
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The time will vary from person to person. The most important step is the low grit paper you start out with. Use the X method and keep going until the X is completely gone. After that, it's just polishing till it looks right. Some people go to extremes with ridiculously high grit paper but it isn't necessary. Make it flat first, then make it as smooth as you can or want to.

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Old 08-12-07   #23 (permalink)
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i mean for just the hsf... im not doing the proc right away. i'll do it later if i feel the need to do so
...probably take you about an hour if you are doing a thorough job.

The primary factor is flat (thought there have been some whisperings of "bowing" being effective).

So... in this case we'll go with flat.

When I lap now I use a stamp pad.

I rest the surface to be lapped on the bad to imprint ink on the entire surface. Then I run the surface accross 400 grit paper once with some pressure and take a look at the results. this initial swipe (if done with sufficient pressure) will give you an idea of how flat the surface already is. From that you can guess how much time the entire job may take, and how long you will need to spend at the lower grits.

I have found that it can be the flattening of the surface that can be the most time consuming, and that the higher grits are worked through in minutes...sometimes.

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Old 08-12-07   #24 (permalink)
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I never thought of using a stamp pad Syrillian, that would be even better

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Old 08-12-07   #25 (permalink)
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Can you dry sand and get the same results? Or does wet sanding give you a better finish? Im kinda debating whether i want to get my Q6600 that im about to order wet...
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Old 08-12-07   #26 (permalink)
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Can you dry sand and get the same results? Or does wet sanding give you a better finish? Im kinda debating whether i want to get my Q6600 that im about to order wet...
Wet sanding should be avoided with processors. Dry will also net you the results you are looking for. I have a mirror finish on my BT and I did the whole thing dry.
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Old 08-12-07   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Wet sanding should be avoided with processors. Dry will also net you the results you are looking for. I have a mirror finish on my BT and I did the whole thing dry.


I lap dry most of the time as well...

...perhaps it is because I make a ginormous mess when I use water.

But I always go dry when I lap CPU's.


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Old 08-12-07   #28 (permalink)
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okay i have been reading around and everywhere i look i see that when someone laps a core 2 duo their ihs was concave. are all c2d ihs's concave? because it certainly seems that way
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Old 08-12-07   #29 (permalink)
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dunno, mine was concave but I didn't notice it until I started lapping it. It looked flat to me...

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Old 08-13-07   #30 (permalink)
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Dry lapping: I use this technique when in the initial flattening stage of the lap job. In other words, when using the roughest grits when you start lapping. But the paper is not completely dry, as I rinse it out so that it doesn't clog. It's more like "moist" lapping.

As I progress, I go on to using the wet lapping technique. This is essential as you go up the grits scale. You don't want removed material clogging the paper and scratching your surfaces.

I've wet-lapped CPU IHSs with no problems whatsoever; I've even rinsed CPUs with running water from a faucet.

I just make sure everything's nice and dry before putting any power through it.

Hope this helps!
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