Lapped my Tuniq and... - Overclock.net

vwgti · 08-14-07

Im still not impressed. Paid $45 for the cooler, $13 for the lapping kit and a additional $8 for more 400 and 600 grit paper and it didnt drop my temps at all. Im still receiving the same exact temps as my arctic cooler 64. To top it all of the mounting screws broke remounting the tuniq, second mount. So I had to use the screws from the plastic retainer for clip type heatsinks. Will these hold out?

**TheLegend** · 08-14-07

If you are using plastic clips I don't think that the heatsink is making proper and adequate contact with the CPU.

Have you checked to make sure that your CPU IHS isn't concave? Do you have pictures of your lapping on the TT?

vwgti · 08-14-07

Yeah I have some pictures but not the final result, took me two days to do it, and so didnt bother taking any pics of what I did today.
Im not using plastic clips, what I was saying was that the stock tuniq screws broke, so I used the screws that hold on the plastic heatsink retainer to the motherboard. You know the plastic piece that holds the stock heatsink, I used the screws that retain that to the motherboard.
Furthermore after my lapping job, my temps will rise a lot quicker when put under load, and they will also drop a hell of a lot quicker when I stop orthos.
As a temp reference point, right now my room ambient is 18c, and everest is giving me temps of core 0, 28c and core 1, 17c, also my motherboard temp is 21c. I have also checked my core temps with coretemp and they colaborate with everist. Exactly the same. But when I run orthos, bam core 0 at 48c and core 1 at 54-55c. Hope I have provided enough info.

dannyyboii · 08-14-07

Use Core Temp and TAT to read the temps. Forget about mobo temp, not really important. Your ambient temps are important. It is possible that you did a bad job with the lapping. Pictures will help. About using the screws, it really doesn't matter what screws you use but make sure that the Tuniq makes contact to the IHS correctly.

vwgti · 08-14-07

Yes I know this, I also stated that coretemp colaborates with what everest said. They both read the same. I also stated that my room ambients aree 19c. Furthermore I dont have a pic of the final result, two days in and I only took pics on the first day. Furthermore when I hold a razor blade to the heatsink base there is no light coming through at any angle what so ever.
Edit: The screws that I did use, I tightened as far as would allow. The h-bracket to hold the tuniq down is bowed in the middle. Thats how tight I tightened the screws.

Dezixn · 08-14-07

Lapping is best when u lap both components, and those screws are easy to break IF you apply uneven pressure.

vwgti · 08-14-07

I tightened them with my fingers, a turn at a time, then bam the head came right off. Also Im not going about to lap my cpu, I like warranties. Also my tuniq was concave that I was sure when flat it would yield better temps. Guess Im just going to put my arctic cooler back on. What a waste of $45.

txtmstrjoe · 08-16-07

In all fairness, though, lapping only one surface (in this case, just your HSF's base) can likely worsen temperatures. You're only flattening one surface; if the other surface is misshapen (i.e., if it's convex or concave), you've likely reduced the surface area of the contacting surfaces.

The IHS is likely far from flat; without suggesting that you lap it, check for whether its concave or convex. If your Tuniq Tower's base is flat, it will only touch the IHS's highest points. I'm betting the IHS is lower in the middle (where the CPU's hottest point is) than it is on the outer edges. This may explain why you see no improvement with the TT 120.

Hope this helps.