v!p3r^

ive recently purchased both arcticlean 1 and 2, but im not exactly sure what no 2 is used for, i know that no1 is used to clean the thermal compound which is already on the IHS and no2 is used so when u re apply new thermal paste u get better contact? or when using it, its like ur using a lower grit which helps you lap? correct me

Mootsfox

#2 is a final wash. I prefer 91% alcohol over #2 because I think #2 has crap in it (leaves a residue behind).

__________________

Important reads for all members
Forum Rules (TOS) | Piracy Policy | Keeping the forum classy

Official Graphics Card Overclocking Database

Mootsfox's MEGA Sale | PS3 Owners join!
ATI Essentials Thread | Make a Projector < $100!
Ohio Overclocking Organization | State Overclocking List

FrankenPC

IMO you used way too much water. And you didn't bother to use a rag to clean your sandpaper while lapping. The sandpaper became clogged and ineffective rapidly. That's why it took so long to sand down the TT block.

Beautiful post BTW! Excellent point about beveling to reduce the stuttering. I did the same thing. I also found it was easier to draw the block toward me in a linear movement until it was ground down enough to move onto the higher grits ( rotating 90deg every 20 or so motions). Also, I noticed when I got to the high grits (2000+) I no longer needed to use the block. I could simply hand sand the block. There isn't any point to using the block while polishing. You aren't going to remove enough material to warp the surface contour.

Incidentally, I had some machinist parallels (super flat bars). I used those to compare to the surface to make sure I didn't screw up the sanding job.

__________________
Previous Member of Team Owners - 1st to hit 200k and 250K

Previous member of Rough Riders - 1st to hit 300k!!!

Adios everyone! I've been proud to be a member of Owners and Riders.

CyberDruid

Nice work--very useful. As Franken points out a straightedge is key...not sure I would use a kitchen implement for that...but you gotta use what you got. Rinsing the paper is important--washing the glass off is important too as you saw even a hair will create a highspot. You should also wash the block off between grits to avoid any coarse grit ruining your next level...

Another way to check if you got a good mate is to use a drop of water on the HS and press it onto the clean piece of glass and watch it from the other side to see how the water squishes. Plus the HS should be able to lift the glass right off the table from the suction of that single drop of water.

Thanks!

__________________
I Build Custom Rigs and Work Acrylic. PM for details.... 25,291 3DMark06...21,908 Vantage...Join the Red Tide
Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About CyberDruid...Support Your Local Druid...Mod Supply Sale...LaserCut Grills

TriBeCa

thanks guys, and yeah I suspect Franken is right about using too much water.

I *was* washing off the paper, though maybe not frequently enough. I did it 5 or 6 times on my first grit.

I disagree. One piece of 400 grit paper is not sufficient to get both an IHS and HSF flat. I wouldn't even say it's sufficient to get the HSF alone flat, at least not if it's as concave as mine was. You don't really need a course kit, though--going to a hardware store and picking up a sheet of 120 grit paper will do just fine. You can then jump to 400 from there.

__________________


Pictorial Lapping Guide--Check this out if you're thinking of lapping an HSF and/or IHS!!

ASUS P5N-E OCing Guide

Best RAM timings guide I've seen

"Incorrect using it may cause your system broken. For power End-User use only!"
-Gigabyte MB manual (8I865GME-775-RH-Rev2.0)

v!p3r^

well true all depending on how flat ur hardware is

a5oc

Lots work but nice job.

fatmario

I got the bundle kit $21 just arrive today what grits should i used first in a order? first grit is 180, now my question how should i move the heatsink up and down slowly? every 30 rep? and then turn around do 30 more rep?

TriBeCa

i don't remember exactly which grits i used. I started with the lowest, then skipped a few, then did 400, then used roughly every other grit 'till i hit the 10 micron paper. when you go up a grit, just use the new grit until you remove all trace of the lines from the coarser paper.

as for rotating the sink, i just did it every couple of minutes. as long as you do it for roughly the same amount of time in each position you'll be fine.

__________________


Pictorial Lapping Guide--Check this out if you're thinking of lapping an HSF and/or IHS!!

ASUS P5N-E OCing Guide

Best RAM timings guide I've seen

"Incorrect using it may cause your system broken. For power End-User use only!"
-Gigabyte MB manual (8I865GME-775-RH-Rev2.0)

xenophobe

Yeah, the copper of the IHS is relatively soft. I cleaned my paper much more often than you did.

The base of the Thermalright was the hardest... it's not soft copper like the IHS is, and you have to be careful of the direction that you actually sand the base.

Find the direction it is convex, and sand the ridge down first.... once you get that flat, then you can go onto the higher grain papers.

I started with 220, then went to 440, 600, 800, 1000,1500 and then finished with 2000 grit.

220 took the most time, because that's what I used to get both the IHS and cooler base flat. Each successively higher grit was only needed for a couple of minutes until the roughness of the previous grit was sanded away. So 220 took probably 15 minutes with the IHS, and then 2-3 minutes per grit after, and the Thermalright base took 220 for probably 20-25 minutes, with each higher grit going 4-5 minutes. It was noticeably harder material to sand.