Adrienspawn

(IN DEVELOPPEMENT)

Made for people who want to know more about, well, air cooling.

In my second post is a collection of good fans.

These make them ideal for having only one of, on the CPU heatsink, and you can turn them down when you want them silent but still have that extra "umph" for benches and such, which we tend to like a lot around here.

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Quick Learning Guide: (You don't have to read this if you have a huge ego)



That is how heat travels in the heatsink. You want to keep the pipes/fins cool.

Fan bare basics: (The beeaaar necessities!!)

-The sticker on a fan is 99% of the time where it will be blowing. If it has two stickers then go with the side that the wires come out of, that's the other way. Just to seal this away in cement, it also blows air in the direction of the sticker that doesn't move, if there are two. It'll also be the side that has the information like Amps, model number, etc.

-Do not stick your fingers in fans unless you find pleasure in pain. Use fan guards on fans inside your case if you have bad cable management, as you don't want a wire to get stuck in a fan and cause a black hole. Remember though that adding a fan guard causes more noise so don't be lazy and do cable management.

-The 38mm-thick fans are better for blowing through small holes, tight fins, filters, rads, etc. They also tend to blow the air more straight, if you get what I mean. However, they are often much heavier than their 25-mm counterparts, so make sure your heatsink can carry the load without warping the motherboard dangerously.

-The 25mm thickness are good for general case ventilation, and for CPU coolers that dont support thicker fans. Try to stick with 38mm-thick fans unless, well, you absolutely can't. The 25mm-thick fans, however, can be better for people who want a fan that can be installed in one place, but the air to not go necessarily straight, since the air is shot out of them, generally, in a more conical (cone?) patern. There are no LED 38mm-thick fans I know of so 25mm-thick is the only option if you want LEDs in your fans. For me I'd rather have the performance and then some CCFL's (light-tubes) for the looks but many prefer the LED fans.



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Feel free to leave any ideas/comments/suggestions/insults! I value any constructive critizism (I cant spell that).


(Please alert me of any spelling mistakes as I'm a Quebecer )

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Adrienspawn

( I will put the owner's name in the picture if I use someone else's picture, upon their permission. Please PM me if you have better pictures or some that you think I can use! )

TIPS!

First of all, you need some good fans for a million different reasons I won't bother to mention!

Take a pick, and remember: Choose the one that's right for you, including budget, style, noise and performance!

PS: If you have trouble seeing the list, use CTRL + SCROLLWHEEL.




Remember this is only for starters, will be adding more fans/details/anything gradually.

If you have any other suggestions, just post them here (specifications helping) and I'll add them to the list. I'll try to keep up with the industry, which luckily is pretty slow as germans aren't inventing any new fan designs.

Fans should have at least 70+CFM or at least have been proven to be more efficient at lower CFMs to be considered, and I guess their DBA should be under 50, so that they can be undervolted. (Although you should look for 35dba and less if you don't like noise). Anything over that, IMO, will be unbearable even at 5V.

I'll try to refrain from posting that monstruous 76m-thick fan, since I agree it's overkill.

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The ''Adrien Award'' (vain name, I know) goes to:




Needed right here ( ) is the OCN review link for these! Help?
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Now here's a few tricks you can use to help lower those temps, or lose some decibels!


Cost: 10-12$
Time: 5 minutes, 30 minutes if you are removing the mobo
Effect: Lower idle temps (0.5-1C) Much lower load temps (1-3C)





They help dissipate the heat on the base of any cooler instead of using only the heatpipes.


Cost: 0$
Time: 1 minute per grill, depending on tool used
Effect: Less noise and more airflow

As I've said before, they are Pure Evil. They make fans louder and push less air.

Follow the leader, you will not regret it.




Cost: 0$ (You have TIM) - 12$ (For some TIM)
Time: ~30mins
Effect: Lower chipset temps (0.5-2C)

Are your chipset temperatures too high? Want to be able to lower that high-rpm northbridge fan? Try lowering it's temps in the most RMA-friendly way.

First off, you have to unscrew the stock chipset cooling solution.



Hopefully you don't have a 780i. Don't ask.

Then remove the stock goop. This is usually easy, as it is often thermal pads, but if it isn't, use Q-tips with 70%+ alcohol.

What to replace it with? I recommend non-conductive TIM. Even if you have steady hands, chances are some will come in contact with the mobo, which is not good if it's a metal-based TIM. I used Arctic Cooling's MX-2, but there are other mobo-friendly ones.

You can also do this for graphics cards.




Cost: Fan (10$) packaging foam/zipties (2$)
Time: 1 minute
Effect: 5C off load if airflow was previously low

Everyone should do this because it's so easy and gives a great temp decrease. Basically you remove 3 drive bay covers and stick a 120mm fan in there with iether zip-ties or foam. I used foam back when I had the Cosmos 1000. (pic following)



MORE ON THE WAY!

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Adrienspawn

Questions and answers!

The thermal tape is used because it's more sticky than thermal paste, but also because the space between the heatsink and ram chip is often more than it should be and the tape being thick, it covers the whole space. I've used paste before, but only when the heatsink is screwed on (won't fall off) and the space for paste is small.

The CFM would be the same (taking into account that the companies are not lying, lol) but the dba would be slightly higher for the two smaller fans. I don't know the exact mathematical equation, though. One million fans at 5dba might give you 6dba, but a million Delta's at 50dba might give you 120dba. All in all, though, it really depends on the ear. For me, no matter how many Ultra-Kaze 2000's I add to my case, the noise is the same. As soon as I bring one of my Kazes to full speed, any other ones I get to full speed afterwards don't have an effect on the sound. I think it has a lot to do with the case as well. The Cosmos probably does a good job containing all the noise and vibrations, but a smaller case with thinner side panels might let more and more noise escape with each fan added.

That said, is there any mathematician with the equation for noise levels with added fans in open air?

I'm thinking something along the lines of:

y1:fan's rated dba
y2:total dba
x:number of fans

y2= y1+(1/3x)(y1)

Normally the fan at the back sucks more air, and the PSU less, so you are causing more hot air to get stuck in the case. As for disrupting airflow, it depends on the fan orientations, I would need a pic of that rackmount

It depends on the fans and how you stack them. If you mount them in parallel, the fans will get less amps each, and if you mount them in series (I ported that from french), the volts will be distributed. I suggest looking at how many amps are needed for each fan, and make sure they use under 0.35A in all. Anything more that than I think the mobo will have trouble feeding them.

Ohhh yes. Some people actually have their PC right on top of a floor vent, or right next to a window AC. I'm not sure about condensation, but for people who don't have AC yet, it's a great idea to hook it up to your PC should you choose to buy one and double-task. It has been done before by many people and I haven't heard of any problems. I'm actually seriously considering installing an AC in the window about 3 feet from my PC, and moving my desk to be right next to the window, the Cosmos intaking from the back.

I tested with mosquito netting, which is my favorite. Everything else would block airflow too much, like nylon from that 'wow' girl during lunch. If I'm wrong, you could always ask her for a sample . I even used the netting for the whole side panel when I wanted to have it open but without the dust hehe. The 120mm filters are so cheap nowadays though that I find you're better off just buying one for the looks, ruggedness, and reusability.

It would be a good idea for someone who needs more than a Delta which I think is not too many people. However if you don't care about noise and the electricity bill it would be good for someone to try one because I haven't seen it done before. They sell some locally here but I don't know their specs. A lot of them come with a fan guard already so that says something already.

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Adrienspawn

res

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spice003

specs :http://members.cox.net/brutal/delta.html scroll down its there

!!GoNe^BuCk^W!lD!!

well i got 2 120mm x 38mm fans that put out 130CFM @ 48 db each
i have them stacked 2 high with a 120mm x 25mm shroud between the fans and the HS
(shroud was made of the stock TT BT fan..)
so together it puts out about 160CFM @ 70db or more! MAXXED

i got about 10 of them
$7.97 each shipped to the US
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Delta-120mm-...QQcmdZViewItem
^very fast shipping

i run these with a Zelman fan controller.
i have them running @ about 1/2 speed
and thy put out about the same CFM as 1 fan but with 1/2 the noise!

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for the record....
im not a retard...
i know what im doin when it comes to Pc's...
no i didnt make it past the 10th grade... and no i didnt go to collage...
i sat here on OCN for the past 3-4 years reading and soaking up all this info
that made me(IMO) one of the best OC'ers

im a high school drop out motor head... thats all there is to it...

slytown

Does the industrial fan come with a 3-pin?

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mortimersnerd

lol...probably the 3pin that you plug you dryer into (210volts)

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mortimersnerd

Change the dB of the industrial fan to a more realistic 120dB. The eardrum perforates between 140 and 160.

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gtpuser

Your face would perforate at the DB listed for that industrial fan!!!!

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