pinning fan cables - Page 2 - Overclock.net

kevindd992002 · 3 Weeks Ago

I could take the risk though, I have no choice since ordering from PPCS would take another 2 weeks for me to get it since I'm from the Philippines and I'm pretty much sure there aren't any 3-pin crimping tool here, hell even those molex connectors and housing I did get them from PPCS.

Anyway, how do you do it properly the ghetto way? I'm used to soldering since I'm an Electronics Engineer, lol.

Shrimpykins · 3 Weeks Ago

Well you can see that the crimp-ons have a flap on each side where the wire goes. Fold those flaps over each other, over the wire and hammer it tight.

kevindd992002 · 3 Weeks Ago

What part do I need to solder?

What does the crimping actually do? Just fold those flaps over each other real tight? It won't "push" the bare wire on the ends (clips) of the molex connector?

Syrillian · 3 Weeks Ago

Solder the wire strands together, then when the soldered end is crimped inside the tabs re-heat to complete the connection.

Yes, fold the tabs over one-another (over-lapped).

I'm not certain what you mean by "push" the barre wire....

aksthem1 · 3 Weeks Ago

Use needle nose pliers to bend the flaps over. Then just put some solder on if necessary.

It's what I did and worked great.

SpcCdr · 3 Weeks Ago

Well, if you're an EE you should be able to figure it out pretty easily,
Just do as Syrillian and others have suggested- :
1) strip the insulation off ~ 1CM off the end of each wire to reveeal bare wire
2) pre-tin the bare wires with your soldering iron
3) insert the wire until the part that still has the insulation butts up against the flaps of the connector
(depending on the connector it should have TWO sets of tabs!
The shorter ones get folded over the bare tinned wire; the longer ones near the open end get folded over the wire that still has insulation!

4) adjust (clip) the length of the tinned wire to fit the best in the connector
5) carefully fold the tabs over with needlenose pliars (right angle ones are really helpful- if you have some)
6)Once folded over; give the tabs an extra squeeze to crimp them onto the wire
7) re-heat thw connection with your soldering iron to let the solder flow and solidify the connection.
8) repeat for all the wires
9) insert the wires into there respective connection points
10) profit!!

Cheers

kevindd992002 · 3 Weeks Ago

Quote:

Originally Posted by SpcCdr

Well, if you're an EE you should be able to figure it out pretty easily,
Just do as Syrillian and others have suggested- :
1) strip the insulation off ~ 1CM off the end of each wire to reveeal bare wire
2) pre-tin the bare wires with your soldering iron
3) insert the wire until the part that still has the insulation butts up against the flaps of the connector
(depending on the connector it should have TWO sets of tabs!
The shorter ones get folded over the bare tinned wire; the longer ones near the open end get folded over the wire that still has insulation!
Attachment 127825
4) adjust (clip) the length of the tinned wire to fit the best in the connector
5) carefully fold the tabs over with needlenose pliars (right angle ones are really helpful- if you have some)
6)Once folded over; give the tabs an extra squeeze to crimp them onto the wire
7) re-heat thw connection with your soldering iron to let the solder flow and solidify the connection.
8) repeat for all the wires
9) insert the wires into there respective connection points
10) profit!!

Cheers

Thanks for those procedures, I think I already get what you mean. This is exactly the molex connector I have: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=1389

It has two sets of tabs, yes, but the longer one would be the holding the bare wire and the shorter one the insulated part of the wire, opposite to what you've explained.

My last concern would be, would the bare wire reach the encircled part in the picture I've attached? Or it should just reach just before that part?

Shrimpykins · 3 Weeks Ago

Your wire should end where the red lines are. It should not go into the curled part. That part is what contacts the pins you plug the connector onto.

What syr suggested will prevent them from falling off as well. Use the solder and solder the ends, then fold the flaps over, tight together (use pliers or something), and then reheat to solder the crimp-on to the wire so it won't come off.

Strip the wire so that you will have bare lead for both sets of tabs and the bare lead will end (and the insulation will begin) right after the tab at the base of the crimp-on. If the wires came pre-soldered and stripped and they are too long just snip off some of the bare lead that is already there.

You want bare lead (wire) to be in the red boxes as illustrated in this picture:

The rest of the area you either want no wire or insulated wire.

Also, and you should know this if you are an electrial tech... REMOVE THE PIECE OF METAL THAT CONNECTS THE THREE CRIMP-ON'S TOGETHER AT THEIR BASE.

kevindd992002 · 3 Weeks Ago

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shrimpykins

Your wire should end where the red lines are. It should not go into the curled part. That part is what contacts the pins you plug the connector onto.

What syr suggested will prevent them from falling off as well. Use the solder and solder the ends, then fold the flaps over, tight together (use pliers or something), and then reheat to solder the crimp-on to the wire so it won't come off.

Strip the wire so that you will have bare lead for both sets of tabs and the bare lead will end (and the insulation will begin) right after the tab at the base of the crimp-on. If the wires came pre-soldered and stripped and they are too long just snip off some of the bare lead that is already there.

You want bare lead (wire) to be in the red boxes as illustrated in this picture:

The rest of the area you either want no wire or insulated wire.

Also, and you should know this if you are an electrial tech... REMOVE THE PIECE OF METAL THAT CONNECTS THE THREE CRIMP-ON'S TOGETHER AT THEIR BASE.

Yes, I did remove that metal already, it's the first thing I've noticed since it would short the three pins.

Since you're suggesting that both sets of tabs should hold-on to a bare part of the wire, what would keep the wire from falling like what Syr suggested?

Shrimpykins · 3 Weeks Ago

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevindd992002

Yes, I did remove that metal already, it's the first thing I've noticed since it would short the three pins.

Since you're suggesting that both sets of tabs should hold-on to a bare part of the wire, what would keep the wire from falling like what Syr suggested?

Well.... 2 things if you use solder like syr suggested. #1 being the solder. But... If you don't use the solder, the only thing would be the pressure of the fold you put on the crimp. A typical crimp will slightly scar the wire with those small flaps and help it hold. Kinda like slamming a butchers knife into a block of pewter and then trying to move it side to side.

You can leave some insulation there to help the crimp-on grip, I don't think it will make much of a difference though.

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