[Project] Loricatus Draco (Armored Dragon) {ever evolving} - Page 30 - Overclock.net

blitz6804 · 07-20-09

I thought I should also mention: the lower your "up (ms)" time, the more responsive the system will be. The higher the "down (ms)" time, the faster the system will be, but at the expense of wasted clock cycles. I am currently testing 200/400.

What also should be mentioned: the higher your up/down percentages, the lower powered your CPU will be on average. Lower numbers will result in a more responsive system. Under general usage patterns, I am almost exclusively in P3, and sometimes in P2, with my settings similar to the above. (90% was fine for my Brisbane, with my Deneb, it is sluggish. I now have 80 / 79 / 80 for "up," and down as per my calculator.) I personally set mine to be as a continuum, as you can tell by each P-state being 810 MHz faster than the one below it, and the consistent load spacing.

Another alternative would be to set P1 equal to P0 and P2 equal to P3 giving you just a High / Lo setting. I am unsure about the exact percentages you would use to do this effectively. I would likely suggest instead to make P0 one speed and then P1-P3 the other. You could also equate P1 and P2, giving you a High / Mid / Low like the K8s of old. Lastly, you can use all four states, but instead of them being equal, you can stack them one way or another. K8s were like this with default CnQ. For example, my Toledo was 11 / 9 / 5. The Opteron 165 Denmark is 9 / 8 / 5. What you could do is have your power states to have one at a low power usage, maybe 20% of maximum speed, one at an 80%, one at a 90%, and one at 100%. You would not save much power, but I suppose it is an option.

blitz6804 · 07-22-09

What I personally advocate and have now done:

Rename Profile 1 to be "Cool-n-Quiet," and configure it as above.
Rename Profile 2 to be "LockedP0," and configure all P-states to be your P0 power state from "Cool-n-Quiet," change all ups and downs to 100% and the sample times to 10,000 ms.
Rename Profile 3 to be "LockedP1," and configure all P-states to be your P1 power state from "Cool-n-Quiet," change all ups and downs to 100% and the sample times to 10,000 ms.
Rename Profile 4 to be "LockedP2," and configure all P-states to be your P2 power state from "Cool-n-Quiet," change all ups and downs to 100% and the sample times to 10,000 ms.
Rename Profile 5 to be "LockedP3," and configure all P-states to be your P3 power state from "Cool-n-Quiet," change all ups and downs to 100% and the sample times to 10,000 ms.

Doing this, you can have Cool-n-Quiet on or lock your processor in any of the P-states just as you could with Crystal-n-Quiet.

EDIT: After posting this, I realized that every time I restarted my PC, it did not save the changes to the profiles as I typed them. After going crazy for a few hours, I discovered that if the profile name has a space in it, it would not save. Accordingly, "Locked P0" was renamed to "LockedP0" et cetera.

blitz6804 · 09-02-09

So... I am the type of person who likes my mice/controllers/what have you to be large and heavy. The problem is that in today's technology, everyone wants smaller and lighter. I bought the largest/heaviest mouse I could at the time, the Logitech G5. The size is good, but the weight, even with the maximum weight in the cartridge, is just too light.

I have since talked to someone about getting some copper weight cartridges made instead of the plastic ones with weights. I will post them here once they get here.

N2Gaming · 09-02-09

Sound like your gonna put the weight inside the mouse or does the mouse havea pocket designed for extra weight?

blitz6804 · 09-02-09

The mice (I have two) comes with a little plastic cartridge with little changeable metal weights. The problem is that cartridge at its heaviest is still too light. This is why I am getting two made out of solid copper; should weigh about twice as much if I remember right.

N2Gaming · 09-02-09

got it. I hope it works out better for you.

blitz6804 · 09-07-09

I have finally gotten around to posting that my copper "pucks" are here. (They came a few days ago, but I have delayed.) They have been made by the brilliant and über friendly samfreese of our very own community. (Props are in order.)

As you can see below, the copper pucks are the same size as the plastic ones EXACTLY, not even differing by a half-millimeter. (I've checked.)

Factory pucks:

Sam's pucks:

As to why one looks milky: the edges are sharp (proving that this has been milled) and I am too lazy to sand the edges. Instead, I just wrapped it in scotch tape. This will also have the added benefit of preventing the copper from corroding.

Was it worth it? Aww yeah. Instead of the pucks weighing in at a measly 39 grams, they now are a much-more respectable 90 grams. (I had wanted to make them from lead, but stupid EPA regulations would not let me get any.)

N2Gaming · 09-07-09

blitz you prolly can get used lead at any tire shop if the guys in the shop are cool. Also you can prolly get some Lead weights in any walmart in the fishing department. .

Glad you like the new weights.

blitz6804 · 09-07-09

In other news, I am trying to get the budget for some DDR2-1200 RAM (or at least, DDR2-1150) and/or the Prolimatech Megahalems. Perhaps by Christmas? We will see.

Two things holding back my overclock right now: The RAM and heat.

The RAM refuses to POST on a 667 divider. Thus, if I wish to increase my HTT further, I would need to decrease my divider to 533, thereby giving me the "wonderful" RAM speed of DDR2-720. To get it back to the factory DDR2-1066, I would need an HTT of 400... yeah that might happen. The DDR2-667 divider (if it worked) would only require an HTT of 320, which in itself might be questionable. On the DDR2-800 divider, I am about as high as the RAM can go, that is, DDR2-1080.

In regards to heat, I cannot increase my voltage any. If I do so, upon load via S&M, the processor starts flirting with the AMD-reported cap of 63º C. Without added voltage, I cannot increase my multiplier. (While I am perfectly stable CPU-wise at 3640 MHz on a 13x multiplier with 1.380 V, 3600 MHz on a 15x multiplier required 1.410 V to maintain stability. Running at 1.380 V caused random crashes without me stressing it.)

blitz6804 · 10-19-09

Okay, here is the new plan, I do not know if I can swing it. When the HD 5870x2 comes out, I am hoping to sell both my HD 4870x2s in favor of it. Same graphics horsepower, but only two cores (instead of four) so I should have greater compatibility in games. Fallout3 and Call of Duty 4 both do not support HD 4870x2 CrossfireX. (Which is strange since Call of Duty 4 supports HD 3870x2 CrossfireX.)

Also in the works is that I intend to pick up Windows 7 Home Premium on Launch day (Thursday), but I am conflicted if I want to do an in-place upgrade, or a fresh install.

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[Project] Loricatus Draco (Armored Dragon) {ever evolving}

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