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Old 01-30-08   #21 (permalink)
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to all the great help you guys provided
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Old 01-30-08   #22 (permalink)
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I have not.

As to temperatures, last week, which is before I started tweaking, idle temps were around 32/36º and load temperatures were 42/47º. Where when I say "load," I mean the Rube Goldberg setup I was doing when I was testing this one. So far then, the overclock has increased my idle temperatures by 8º or so and my load temperatures by about 4º.

I've not used programs like Orthos before, because I figured, if it can stably do what I need it to, why test it for more than I intend.
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Old 01-30-08   #23 (permalink)
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Orthos will provide a full CPU load and a very good means to find your full load temps.
Best to keep the full load below the mid 50c range.
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Old 01-30-08   #24 (permalink)
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The new RAM and case fans just arrived. Is it better to let Orthos just finish one cycle before stopping it to install, or run it the full eight hours, or just cancel out anyway. it is now up to five hours.

Addendum: I just halted execution of Orthos. After 8 hours, 7 minutes, and 15 seconds, there were 0 errors and 0 warnings. I will be eating dinner, and then installing the new RAM and case fans.
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Last edited by blitz6804 : 01-30-08 at 08:13 PM Reason: Update on Orthos
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Old 01-30-08   #25 (permalink)
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Good news: RAM is now in.

Bad news: Overclock is completely trashed. I am back at all stock timings and clocks and will need to mess with it next week.

Addendum 1:

Turns out that the stock timings are worse for 4 GB than with 2. Left to its own devices, it dropped the RAM to 3-3-3-8-T2 at 333 FSB (2/1.66 divider). I played with the divider and timings to get the processor back up to 2475 (11*225) and the RAM has a 2/1.5 divider making it 337.5 FSB. Timings are still 3-3-3-8-T2.

Ideally, I would like to get the FSB up to 250 such that the HT is running at 1000 (its ideal). Any attempts to adjust the HT multiplier more than 4 result in a crash.

Also, the new fans/rewiring have helped a bit. The fans are now:
Front: Input
Side Up: Input
Side Down: Input
Top: Input
Rear Case: Output
Read PCI fan: Output

Again, the PCI fan is located directly below the video card. I am upgrading that to a more powerful one, but that did not make this shipment.

I have seen case temps about 4ºC cooler than they used to be. With my current CPU clock of 2475 (faster than the prior 2420 thanks to the RAM divider) it is now running 31/39º idle.

Addendum 2:

OCCT now topped out at 48/53º, down from 51/56º pre-upgrade. I know that isn't much, only a change slightly less than one percent, but at least it is something.
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¤ I have no idea what it will 3DMark at 3510 MHz. ¤
¤ Upgrade budget: ■■■■■■■■■■ ($0 / ∞) ¤

¤ B.S. in Chem., Cum Laude, Minors in Maths and Crim. Justice, J.D. {Pending} ¤
¤ Almost all PC parts come with manuals. Ask me to find yours! ¤
¤ Want a real socket? Get Socket 939! ¤
¤ Today Txtmstrjoe presents: "[Steppings] merely indicate possible outcomes due to the law of averages being in your favor." ¤
¤ ... ¤

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Last edited by blitz6804 : 01-31-08 at 12:19 AM Reason: Addendum assessing damage; Results of OCCT
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Old 01-31-08   #26 (permalink)
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Also, keep in mind, how high of an OC you get will very much depend on the stepping of your CPU. I just switched from a S939 4400+. My stepping was CCBWE--the worst overclocking stepping, and also those ran the hottest. I think the best stepping was CCBBE (might need to check on that...). If you plan on resetting your HSF anytime soon, you might want to take a picture of the IHS of your CPU so you know the stepping, and therefore, what OC's you're likely to get.

I couldn't tell from what was described, but if you're overclocking, make sure to disable Cool n' Quiet--it will almost certainly kill your overclock (usually will just cause a failure to boot).

I think on my crappy ASRock board, I could only give my CPU 1.4v--which only got me to 2.54GHz (nothing past that, not even 1MHz higher on the FSB would boot at all--I'm thinking I hit my CPU wall, and not the motherboard because other people with the same mobo got to 2.7GHz with a 4400+).

Lastly, another thing you'll want to consider regarding the RAM, is that if you mis-match ram speeds or timings, you'll lose dual-channel mode, and that might affect performance for what you're doing (not sure though).

Well, I hope your OC's on your 4400+ go better than mine did. One thing's for sure, I really liked that CPU--'twas a good workhorse!
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Old 01-31-08   #27 (permalink)
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I had not planned on reseating my processor anytime soon no. With this case, the Zalman is a pain in the neck to clamp down. The thing I was upset about when I bought the Zalman: I needed to change my mounting bracket. First time for everything I suppose. According to CPU-Z, the stepping is 2, whatever that means.

I understand that Cool n' Quiet kills overclocks. However, I really only want the power available to me when I need it. If I disable Cool n' Quiet, I would need to underclock it for light days, stockclock it for every day use, and overclock it for gaming. Isn't it easier to let it choose whether it needs to be a 5x or an 11x multiplier? Whether it wants 1.1 V or 1.35 V?
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¤ The Loricatus Draco life thread. Now awaiting an HD 5970! ¤
¤ I have no idea what it will 3DMark at 3510 MHz. ¤
¤ Upgrade budget: ■■■■■■■■■■ ($0 / ∞) ¤

¤ B.S. in Chem., Cum Laude, Minors in Maths and Crim. Justice, J.D. {Pending} ¤
¤ Almost all PC parts come with manuals. Ask me to find yours! ¤
¤ Want a real socket? Get Socket 939! ¤
¤ Today Txtmstrjoe presents: "[Steppings] merely indicate possible outcomes due to the law of averages being in your favor." ¤
¤ ... ¤

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Old 01-31-08   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blitz6804 View Post
I had not planned on reseating my processor anytime soon no. With this case, the Zalman is a pain in the neck to clamp down. The thing I was upset about when I bought the Zalman: I needed to change my mounting bracket. First time for everything I suppose. According to CPU-Z, the stepping is 2, whatever that means.

I understand that Cool n' Quiet kills overclocks. However, I really only want the power available to me when I need it. If I disable Cool n' Quiet, I would need to underclock it for light days, stockclock it for every day use, and overclock it for gaming. Isn't it easier to let it choose whether it needs to be a 5x or an 11x multiplier? Whether it wants 1.1 V or 1.35 V?
Yeah--I had the same cooler too--it was a pain...but a good cooler.

The stepping that CPU-Z reports is not the core stepping (admittedly I have no idea what the stepping CPU-Z reports means). I think on the 939 X2's, the only place the stepping was indicated was directly on the CPU IHS.

Yes, by all means, use CnQ when it's appropriate--I'm all for intelligent CPU throttling. But of course, when you're OC'ing, it'll need to be disabled. One thing I like about intel's C2D mobo's (or at least mine), is that all the power-save/CPU throttling features work even when you OC.
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Old 01-31-08   #29 (permalink)
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Alright bud...here's what I've gathered so far:

You're running a Toledo Core CPU...you SHOULD reach a minimum of 2.7GHz. Not promised, but Toledos usually OC better that others.

Take two of those sticks out. 939 CPU's absolutely HATE running 4 sticks. It has nothing to do with the board, its the CPU's memory controller. 2GB of RAM should be more than enough as of today's standards.

Your fans....
Front- intake
Top - exhaust
side panel - intake (use one on the bottom of the side if possible)
rear - exhaust
PSU - exhaust
Point your Zalman to blow to the rear.

Drop your memory down to 166MHz divider. That'll give you up to 250FSB and still be okay. Stick with that 2.5CAS latency. Using 2GB of RAM...AMD chips like that 2.5.

Keep your HT Link at 4x. Drop it down to 3x if you go above 250. Your stock should have been 5x, but that's ok.

Your temperatures are fine up to 65*C. If you decide to keep them lower than that...that's ok. But 65*C is AMD's lowest thermal spec...which means that's the hottest I'd ever let your CPU get. Other people will tell you keep it below 55...they obviously haven't read AMD's tech documents. Your fine up to 65*C.

Other than that....set your voltages manually. If you fail an overclock, up the voltage some until you get too hot. But don't put too much voltage through because that just adds more heat that you may not need. Only increase voltage if its needed to get a higher OC (which it will be). But just up it one notch at a time till its stable. And I'm talking CPU voltage, not memory. Leave your memory at stock volts, or don't go higher than 2.85v. Turn cool 'n' quiet off.

Looks like you've already done a lot of research though. I hope this helps you get a higher overclock. If not...feel free to PM me, I'd be more than happy to help you out. I love 939 machines...and I've maxed out 2 939 rigs already with their OC. I'd love to help you get yours up to its max as well.
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Old 01-31-08   #30 (permalink)
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As Pioneerisloud has stated, make your top case fan an exhaust not an intake. Otherwise you are obviously intelligent and well on your way. Good luck.
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