The Socket 939 Appreciation Club and Knowledgebase [Official] - Page 1089 - Overclock.net

blitz6804 · 12-25-08

I have to ask the question not yet asked: have you tried reducing your HTT to 200 MHz to see if it fixes the BSOD and the sound? Have you done a CMOS clear after installing the second graphics card? A CMOS dump between ANY hardware change is a good idea in my opinion.

pez · 12-25-08

Quote:

Originally Posted by blitz6804

I have to ask the question not yet asked: have you tried reducing your HTT to 200 MHz to see if it fixes the BSOD and the sound? Have you done a CMOS clear after installing the second graphics card? A CMOS dump between ANY hardware change is a good idea in my opinion.

Actually when I first tried to power on the computer, the power button wouldn't light up, so i did about 3-4 cmos resets until it finally started. I'm at 2.45GHz right now. The HTT Link is still at 4x though. It's still crazy about the sound card. Are the Creative Sound Blaster Audigy SE's OK? I found a thread for modded drivers for it to make it have the functionality of the X-Fi's, so I'll pick one up from WalMart tommorow and if that doesn't fix it, then I'll take it back and start troubleshooting from there. I really don't know why the sound started doing this all of a sudden. And it's not just the back audio ports, it's the front ones too.

This may be where I start saving up for a new board

. Core i7 or Deneb here I come.

Hueristic · 12-25-08

I dunno Pez, You got some weird problems today? Sound is usually all or nothing? Once in awhile interference issues but volume lowering has got to be something in the registry I would guess. Unless the sound card has multiple op-amps which I've never heard of?

pez · 12-25-08

IDK. Well I'm going to go ahead for the sound card tommorow, and if that doesn't work, then I'll return the sound card. Then when the raptor gets here, I'll do the clean install to that and see if that does the trick. The only other thing I'm going to try tonight later on is rolling back the drivers for the sound card. The sound card had an update recently, but I would say it was a week ago at least. I'll also try connecting that extra 4 pin power connection to see if that helps too. Really didn't want to have to do that, but I guess it might be tough luck for me. Wish I didn't get all these wierd problems :/.

**txtmstrjoe** · 12-25-08

pez, from the onset it sounded like perhaps the system was being fed inadequate power with SLI enabled. Plug in that molex power connector on the board with SLI, and see if that helps you out.

Driver reinstallation is also a good step to try, for both your video and audio. Also, what is the point of OCing your video cards with SLI? It's not necessary (in my opinion); it's like having a Ferrari, but driving on ice. You have all that power going to waste because you can't get adequate traction on the road.

Good luck.

Prideless · 12-25-08

Quote:

Originally Posted by blitz6804

It certainly is Prideless. First and foremost, I would like to ask that you please provide a screenshot showing the CPU, the SPD, and the Memory tabs of CPU-Z. With that, we can see where you stand. You will also need a program like CoreTemp to ensure you keep your CPU at a safe temperature.

We can help further in future (explaining things better) but as a quick rubric to what the eventual goal will be:

1) Reduce CPU multiplier to 5x, reduce HT Link to 2x, reduce RAM to 200:100
2) Increase the HTT by 5 MHz
3) Run Orthos 30 minutes
4) If it passes, go to step 2; if it fails go to step 5
5) Subtract 10 MHz from the HTT you just tried and write that number down as "Max HTT"
6) Return HTT to 200, increase memory to 200:200
7) Increase the HTT by 5 MHz
8) Run Orthos 30 minutes
9) If it passes, go to step 7; if it fails go to step 10
10) Subtract 10 MHz from the HTT you just tried and write it down as "Max RAM"
11) Return the HTT to 200 and the RAM to 200:100, then set the CPU multiplier to its maximum (in your case, 11x)
12) Increase the HTT by 5 MHz
13) Run Orthos 30 minutes
14) If it passes, go to step 12; if it fails go to step 14
15) Subtract 10 MHz from the HTT you just tried, multiply it by the multiplier in step 11, and write it down as "Max CPU"
OPTIONAL:
16) Return the HTT to 200 and the CPU multiplier to 5x, change the HT Link to 5x
17) Increase the HTT by 5 MHz
18) Run Orthos 30 minutes
19) If it passes, go to step 16; if it fails go to step 20
20) Subtract 10 MHz from the HTT you just tried, multiply it by 5, and write it down as "Max HyperTransport"

Now we know your max CPU, max memory clock, max HyperTransport, and max HTT. If you enter those values into Gogar it will give you a good starting point for your overclock. (The boxes in Gogar correlate to step 15, step 10, step 20, and step 5 in my rubric above.)

Note, the "Max RAM" only applies for those timings. Change the timings, and you change the "Max RAM" value. Sometimes it is better to start looser and then try to tighten them down later. Note further that these all apply for the same voltages. If you increase your CPU voltage, you may increase Max CPU. If you increase your NBV or VDIMM, you may increase your Max RAM. If you increase HTV, you might increase your Max HyperTransport. Note all the mays. Voltage does not always increase the clockability.

mama mia i feel like i hit the gold mine lol. finally people who can show me the light.

anyhow here is the cpu and spd you requested.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...kenDog/CPU.jpg

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...kenDog/SPD.jpg

Thank you for spending the time and typing and providing such detailed instructions step by step just what i need.

let me know what to do next. or if i can begin your instructions. i cant wait.

btw off topic my gpu runs stock on load max at 85. is that bad? when i overclock on load max is 90. is 90 alright? i hear they can go pretty high.

and just a simple yes no question is it possible to overclock pc3200ram.

sorry for the random questions. it just seems like you know your way around the block with overclocking.

**thlnk3r** · 12-25-08

Quote:

Originally Posted by pez

IDK. Well I'm going to go ahead for the sound card tommorow, and if that doesn't work, then I'll return the sound card. Then when the raptor gets here, I'll do the clean install to that and see if that does the trick. The only other thing I'm going to try tonight later on is rolling back the drivers for the sound card. The sound card had an update recently, but I would say it was a week ago at least. I'll also try connecting that extra 4 pin power connection to see if that helps too. Really didn't want to have to do that, but I guess it might be tough luck for me. Wish I didn't get all these wierd problems :/.

Pez, Joe made a good point about power. The EA650W should be able to provide plenty of amperage on the 12volt rail but I'm not certain. The EA650 is only 45amps (540/12). You also have three hard drives and who knows how many fans. Sorry if I missed this alreay but did you test with just one card?

In regards to the sound issues, did you check the main volume control and "wave" volume control? I know on my barracuda sound card there are three different volume controls listed. Just a thought...

Good luck

blitz6804 · 12-26-08

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prideless

. . .

Thank you for spending the time and typing and providing such detailed instructions step by step just what i need.

let me know what to do next. or if i can begin your instructions. i cant wait.

. . .

and just a simple yes no question is it possible to overclock pc3200ram.

Those are far from detailed instructions. They are merely a quick overview as to what will be done. To make detailed instructions, I would need pictures of everything in your BIOS and a few hours of typing. I have a Gigabyte board, but mine is nForce 3. Yours is nForce 4. The two are dissimilar.

For your simple question, I have a complex yes-or-no answer: maybe. The "memory" tab can be helpful. What is nice to see is that your RAM can do DDR 400 @ 2.5-3-3-6 with only 2.5 V. If you happen to know the exact model G.Skills you have, that would be very helpful. By "overclock" you mean run faster than DDR 400 @ 2.5-3-3-6, most likely. 2.6 V might permit 2-3-3-6 or better, only experimentation can tell.

The best thing to do is get your RAM set to the exact manufacturer specifications. In the case of my Corsair RAM, it was rated for DDR 400 2-3-3-6 @ 2.75 V. I then reduced my RAM divider and worked the speed back up to DDR 400. If I want a little higher than DDR 400 (depending where my CPU wanted to be) I would loosen the timings as needed. If I came a little short, I would tighten the timings. How far your RAM goes depends mostly on the internal RAM chips, and somewhat on the processor's memory controller. Pioneerisloud was able to take my Corsair RAM up to DDR 533, even if not entirely stable.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prideless

sorry for the random questions. it just seems like you know your way around the block with overclocking.

*Dies laughing.* Me, know my way around the block; sorry for laughing, but that is kinda funny from where I sit. I am still very much a fresh face compared to greats like Pioneerisloud, Poser, txtmstrjoe, and GuardianOdin. (Thlnk3r too deserves honorable mention, but the only rig I have known him with has been his golden Opty.)

I can give you a quick and dirty route on how to do things. It may not be pretty, but you should be at a speed you are happy with after 2-3, 8-hour days of work. If you want to squeeze a little more power out of your rig, txtmstrjoe is the way to go; that dude spends about a month tweaking things. We all are happy to help though.

With your CPU-Z post, I can add you to the Roster if you wish to become a member. When you get to a speed you are happy with, we can tell you how to get a validation link to make it look nice and pretty.

GuardianOdin · 12-26-08

Thanks for the kind words Blitz.

@Prideless, Overclocking is a fresh game with every single piece of hardware we buy. While a lot of us know how to OC them, they still throw us a curve every now and again. So even old hands at this can again be new hands.

Take my PSU for example. My current OC is different than when I used the old "now dead" Ultra 600watt. My new PC P&C 750watt provides much more stability and there for I am able tweak and tighten some timings I could not before even though it's the exact same hardware.

Stable power going to the rig can make all the difference. Good luck and we'll be here to help when we can.

pez · 12-26-08

Quote:

Originally Posted by txtmstrjoe

pez, from the onset it sounded like perhaps the system was being fed inadequate power with SLI enabled. Plug in that molex power connector on the board with SLI, and see if that helps you out.

Driver reinstallation is also a good step to try, for both your video and audio. Also, what is the point of OCing your video cards with SLI? It's not necessary (in my opinion); it's like having a Ferrari, but driving on ice. You have all that power going to waste because you can't get adequate traction on the road.

Good luck.

Quote:

Originally Posted by thlnk3r

Pez, Joe made a good point about power. The EA650W should be able to provide plenty of amperage on the 12volt rail but I'm not certain. The EA650 is only 45amps (540/12). You also have three hard drives and who knows how many fans. Sorry if I missed this alreay but did you test with just one card?

In regards to the sound issues, did you check the main volume control and "wave" volume control? I know on my barracuda sound card there are three different volume controls listed. Just a thought...

Good luck

Ok, so it's not a problem with the sound, or any of my equpiment. It's a driver problem, and not a sound driver problem, a nvidia driver problem. Figures. I did a system restore thinking that it may have been a registry prob as Heuristic stated from downloading ventrilo, but it wasn't. I did a system restore (which was before the 2nd gfx card installed, and it worked fine again). As soon as Vista installed and enabled SLI for my second card and I restarted, back to crap. So now my next step is to try a different set of drivers. If a diff. set of drivers doesn't work, then I'll just buy a sound card. *sigh*. BUT, I'm thinking with any sound card it'll do the same because I'm not sure if it's just conflicting because of it being onboard, but it's really frustrating

.

12-25-08	#10883 (permalink)
Hueristic Need a New Protocol Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Bottom_Of_A_Bottle Posts: 7,761 Rep: 317 Unique Rep: 214 Folding Team Rank: 65 Trader Rating: 2	I dunno Pez, You got some weird problems today? Sound is usually all or nothing? Once in awhile interference issues but volume lowering has got to be something in the registry I would guess. Unless the sound card has multiple op-amps which I've never heard of? __________________ I seldom argue my advice, It's free take it or leave it. READ this thread before starting your first build!!! ALWAYS power up a Mobo Before installing it! Consider Less than helpful posts as Free Bumps. ¡¡¡ʍʇɟ qn1ɔ uoıʇɐıɔǝɹddɐ 939 ʇǝʞɔos ǝɥʇ: [Official]November Foldathon Retro Rulez *This goes without saying but* 1. If you can't afford to lose it don't mod or OC it. 2. At least read the OP before commenting. Semper Fi

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