The Socket 939 Appreciation Club and Knowledgebase [Official] - Page 991 - Overclock.net

N2Gaming · 12-06-08

LOL

Sounds a bit like to much failing... I would like to have an opty 170-175 my self but finding one is near impossible. At least one that I know for sure I won't have to worry about having problems with...

blitz6804 · 12-06-08

The theory is that with Opteron 165s, they tend to be limited by the low multiplier. (On the right board, such as Pioneer's Asus A8N32-SLI Dlx or GuardianOdin's DFI LANParty UT NF4 SLI-DR Expert, you can really crank up the HTT to make up for this.) With Opteron 180/185s, they tend to be too expensive. The 170/175 offers the best balance of clockability and price; I often see them running around 2.8 GHz.

And yes N2Gaming; I am the eternal pessimist to Joe's sunny optimism. I like to write things in the negative.

BlackOmega · 12-06-08

Quote:

Originally Posted by majakone

Oil pumps DO just stop working

No they dont, they wear slowly with time and lose pressure. Unless you dont change your oil and the sludge turns into hardened carbon, somehow gets past the screen on the oil pump pickup and gets stuck between the gears causing it to sieze and either grenade the oil pump driveshaft, or just break the gears themselves. Mind you this is exetremely uncommon. Most engines slowly wear down and lose pressure, and people dont notice until pointed out by a tech or the engine quits.
Also certain engines have rubber o-rings between the oil pump and the block, even those dont typically fail. The only way Ive seen those fail is whent he engine was serviced and the tech either didnt replace the o-ring or damaged it upon reassembly.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nenkitsune

not quite true. there is pressure in the crankcase, but it's not positive pressure. the reason a car may/may not start with the valve cover off is because the block itself is part of the vacuum system. Pull the cover off (or even take off the oil cap) and you've created a big vacuum leak. oh, and it'll never have pressure with the cover off (vacuum pressure that is)

Thats exactly what I said in not so many words

And the pressure I was referring to when I said that it might not have pressure when it warms up is oil pressure, not crankcase pressure.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nenkitsune

there's a better way to test the oil pump taht won't destroy the car. find out how you can prime the oil pump with a drill, and just crank the pump to see if you have oil pressure. Oil pumps are one of those things that don't really fail though. if they do fail though, the engine will sort of...grenade, or seize, and then won't even crank over (you'll get a click, and that's it, and you won't be able to manually turn over the engine)

I dont think you can test his this way, if I heard correctly its a 94 bonne, which very well could have distributorless ignition (coil packs) and the oil pump is driven off of the crank. (Im not a GM guy so Im not positive about this).So the only way you could test it is by actually cranking the engine. A lot of the newer cars are like this, the oil pump mounts to the front of the engine and goes around the crank, kind of like a timing cover on small block Fords.. There's notches or flat spots on the crank that line up with the inner pump gear. So therefore no drill is going to help you.
I know the method youre talking about, I use it to prime my 302's upon initial startup. The oil pump needs a driveshaft to be done this way.

PS: Im a car nut too, but Im also a Certified mechanic

and soon going to be a certified nursing assistant, then an RN, then a nurse practictioner, and just for kicks and giggles I think Ill go get my personal traing cert too.

N2Gaming · 12-06-08

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hueristic

MegaOption(I think that's the mods name) has a thread for what files you want hosted here.

Hueristic, Thank you. I posted over there. I guess that's all I can do for now.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackOmega

No they dont, they wear slowly with time and lose pressure. Unless you dont change your oil and the sludge turns into hardened carbon, somehow gets past the screen on the oil pump pickup and gets stuck between the gears causing it to sieze and either grenade the oil pump driveshaft, or just break the gears themselves. Mind you this is exetremely uncommon. Most engines slowly wear down and lose pressure, and people dont notice until pointed out by a tech or the engine quits.
Also certain engines have rubber o-rings between the oil pump and the block, even those dont typically fail. The only way Ive seen those fail is whent he engine was serviced and the tech either didnt replace the o-ring or damaged it upon reassembly.

Thats exactly what I said in not so many words

And the pressure I was referring to when I said that it might not have pressure when it warms up is oil pressure, not crankcase pressure.

I dont think you can test his this way, if I heard correctly its a 94 bonne, which very well could have distributorless ignition (coil packs) and the oil pump is driven off of the crank. (Im not a GM guy so Im not positive about this).So the only way you could test it is by actually cranking the engine. A lot of the newer cars are like this, the oil pump mounts to the front of the engine and goes around the crank, kind of like a timing cover on small block Fords.. There's notches or flat spots on the crank that line up with the inner pump gear. So therefore no drill is going to help you.
I know the method youre talking about, I use it to prime my 302's upon initial startup. The oil pump needs a driveshaft to be done this way.

PS: Im a car nut too, but Im also a Certified mechanic

and soon going to be a certified nursing assistant, then an RN, then a nurse practictioner, and just for kicks and giggles I think Ill go get my personal traing cert too.

LOL you guy's enough with the cars already. Maybe you could start a new texting match thread in regards to your Automobile expertise and have a text off to the finish...

Hueristic · 12-06-08

Yeah kill the Car chatter Plz! I love (Well used to) working on them but this is not the thread.

So anyways, MY head is gonna Explode!!!! Been on ebay all day and now I want 2 dual opterons socket f(1207 it think) and a mobo for < 100. Not sure but I'm guessing the price is gonna just go down. Seems like the mobo is the issue (most have pci-x rather than pci-e).

But whatever I do All I really care about is Price/Performance. So I may have to retire this mobo/cup to the fold and become a retired member.

That would be pretty funny though as this would be the first socket type that I have owned since 8088/8086 days that I didn't learn everything about before moveing on! And it's the first one I ever joined a club over!!!!

N2Gaming · 12-06-08

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hueristic

Yeah kill the Car chatter Plz! I love (Well used to) working on them but this is not the thread.

So anyways, MY head is gonna Explode!!!! Been on ebay all day and now I want 2 dual opterons socket f(1207 it think) and a mobo for < 100. Not sure but I'm guessing the price is gonna just go down. Seems like the mobo is the issue (most have pci-x rather than pci-e).

But whatever I do All I really care about is Price/Performance. So I may have to retire this mobo/cup to the fold and become a retired member.

That would be pretty funny though as this would be the first socket type that I have owned since 8088/8086 days that I didn't learn everything about before moveing on! And it's the first one I ever joined a club over!!!!

I was going to buy a fx-6somthing for that socket on craiglist about 6 months ago really good price too. the only problem was finding a decent mobo to support it. and then finding another exact chip to run side by side with it... So I dropped that idea. "If you cant find a solution to run socket F1207, drop it like it's hot, drop it like it's hot"

Good luck with your search on that one. That would be a nice server platform...

BlackOmega · 12-06-08

Sorry fellaz

cars not computer.....errrr wait computers not cars

Right right

BlackOmega · 12-06-08

Hey is there like a Tag or something we can put in our sig supporting the 939 club? I know Im lazy, I just dont feel like looking

N2Gaming · 12-06-08

YAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!! but if you can tell me how to plug my s939 computer into my car's for diagnostic purposes then I'm all for it...

N2Gaming · 12-06-08

it's real easy, copy the url "for the first page of this thread" at the top of your browser. Then edit your sig and put in some fancy wording for the link you want to referenceand then click on the globe with a side ways figur 8 and paste the url address and click ok that will link to any thing you want to link to. and wala. Presto insta-majic you have a link in your sig...

12-06-08	#9905 (permalink)
Hueristic Need a New Protocol Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Bottom_Of_A_Bottle Posts: 8,045 Rep: 331 Unique Rep: 221 Trader Rating: 2	Yeah kill the Car chatter Plz! I love (Well used to) working on them but this is not the thread. So anyways, MY head is gonna Explode!!!! Been on ebay all day and now I want 2 dual opterons socket f(1207 it think) and a mobo for < 100. Not sure but I'm guessing the price is gonna just go down. Seems like the mobo is the issue (most have pci-x rather than pci-e). But whatever I do All I really care about is Price/Performance. So I may have to retire this mobo/cup to the fold and become a retired member. That would be pretty funny though as this would be the first socket type that I have owned since 8088/8086 days that I didn't learn everything about before moveing on! And it's the first one I ever joined a club over!!!! __________________ I seldom argue my advice, It's free take it or leave it. READ this thread before starting your first build!!! ALWAYS power up a Mobo Before installing it! Consider Less than helpful posts as Free Bumps. ¡¡¡ʍʇɟ qn1ɔ uoıʇɐıɔǝɹddɐ 939 ʇǝʞɔos ǝɥʇ: Join the Overclock.net Foldathon - up to $250 in prizes! Retro Rulez *This goes without saying but* 1. If you can't afford to lose it don't mod or OC it. 2. At least read the OP before commenting. Semper Fi

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