This'll be FUN!! - Overclock.net

Syrillian · 10-08-06

Final images

I have a basic design in my head, with the most of the parts decided upon. I have a second job in Napa that I commute to once a week on Saturdays. the drive takes about an hour so, so today I came up with some solutions and stumbled upon a couple of problems that I had not thought of before. On the drive back I think I sussed those out.

I will be building a complete case from the ground up for my Folding / Testing rig.

I'm going to try to purchase only raw materials (< $30), and even that will be at the minimum - cash is short. So... it's gonna be a paperchase to see if I can scrounge or salvage as much as I can.

I've yet to use Cold Cathode lighting, so I may incorporate that.... We'll see.

This is going to be soooo FUN!

Syrillian · 10-09-06

100906 - Okay, I think that I have a basic design down:

I plan on mounting a webcam on a flexible shower fixture so that it can be moved around to different angles and remain where the user wants it.

I'm going to start collecting items this weekend. I hope to have them all within a week or two. I happened to run into this:

It is a drain frame for a shower that was a sample being thrown out

It is rather heavy and is made of some kind of heavy metal. It will make a nice shroud or cover for an 80mm fan

Just for G.P. here is my work area. I have two sturdy tables with leaves that I set up in the room, along with an anti-static mat. I live in a very small, but comfortable space. My secondary rig sits on a coffee table that sits on a "riser" that I made from salvaged 2x4's that is stained a dark cherry. The corner desk that I use for my primary is also made from salvaged wood and stained a dark cherry. The desktop is cut from a single "boardroom table" that I found on a loading dock to be discarded. It was pretty torn up, but I was able to find an area with a finished edge that I could cut a wedge out of.

Next step is to work out the power supply/base. The varying 90 and 45 degree angles have to be worked out so that the center of gravity is as low as possible.

Syrillian · 10-11-06

101106 - In my meandering thoughts I stumbled upon a potential issue. The combined weight of the MoBo, Optical Drives, Fan Controllers, USB/Switches and Materials/Hardware are all going to be resting on a single point: The 90 degree fitting that will be attached to the PSU hosuing...

Hmmmm.... there's nothing to do but experiment.

I'll make the PSU housing from 1/2" (ended up at 1/4") acrylic. I may have to supplement the structural strength with braces. I'm trying to keep metals and alloys to a minimum, maybe I can fabricate some from acrylic....

Gauge of acrylic changed to 1/4". This is stuff is strong and very durable when assempbled with #16.

I gotta wait for Friday until I can purchase the acrylic and the fittings. Yup, no extra cash today, oh well I was able to eat

Can't wait to actually start!

Syrillian · 10-12-06

101206

I was balking at the price of some of the materials I was pricing. The acrylic was killing me until I went into TAP Plastics. This is what I got for $15.50 The rod was cut for me, and cost $6.00

I think that I have enough to do 80-90% of the case. All that is left is to scrounge/purchase the pipe fittings.

I will start drawing out the pieces and start my cuts this weekend. YEAH!

Syrillian · 10-17-06

10172006 (oops...

)

Change of plans. Going with "Bronze" acrylic instead of clear. Looks much better.

I was able to get "seconds" on the Bronze Acrylic. $15.00

Going well. Acrylic is hard to work with. I can see why people get them laser cut, but I have committed to doing this by hand.

I used three power tools, makeshift jigs and a modded angle for the sander.

The PSU housing base and 90 degree angle mount.

Syrillian · 10-21-06

102106

Today I finished cutting the parts for the PSU Housing. The most indispensable piece of advice was headed, "Measure twice, cut once". In my situation it is more like measure seven times, cut once. And on one occasion, measure 8 times, cut twice

. Maintaining the tolerances was a pain in the arse

Once again, makeshift jigs saved the day. Another tool I used was an "Angle Copier".

Here is an image of the positioning of the PSU inside the housing, along with the jigs and angle copier,

...and of course, multiple measures....blah, blah, blah

Here are the sides and the top. These are just for fit. There will have to be openings cut in to the sides for ventilation and access to the power switch and power cord receptacle.

Tomorrow I get to take the Dremel to the galvanized pipe fittings

Syrillian · 10-22-06

102206

Today was a 2-stager: Grinding and filling the galvanized pipe fittings and cutting the required holes in the front and rear panels for the PSU.

Stage 1

I was dreading this day as I didn't want to mess something up. I am refering to the front and side panels, and the access/ventilation holes that needed to be cut and drilled. I detest putting a lot of time and energy into a particular stage of a project, have nice results and then promptly ruin it with one miss-cut or hole drilled. I've done it before when messing around with carpentery. No big though, just try again. Not today though

I got it right from the get-go (whooo-hooo, lucky day!). I ignored conventional wisdom in that I measured and created a diagram for the front and the back of the PSU rather than removing it from the rig and using it as a physical template. Previous experiences have shown that this rather low-brow technique magnifies the error margin. Especially when one is mostly winging it. I blame this decision on my inherent laziness and that I did not want my Folding rig down. I hardly contribute anything at all with my lone-folder, but it is what it is.

Using these 2 items:

and

The Goof Off is an excellent xylene-based cleaner. I use it to clean my components of old TIC when I re-seat or swap relevant hardware. After cleaning the galvanized parts completely I let them sit for a couple of hours. There were a lot of impurities coated on the parts and useing warm water and soap was not working. Then using the precision dremel attachment I ground down the relief.

Then it was time to fill the ground out portions. some of the numbering and lettering (i.e. Made in China) was cast into the metal. I ground troughs through them and these needed to be filled. the epoxy I used will be ready for grinding tomorrow, at which time I will remove the rest of the aberations. I discovered on the first flange that I painted that every small imperfection stands out once the unit is painted. That and the lettering was too much to bear, so I took a step back and decided to grind! More fun that way

The epoxy looks wet, but it isn't. It was hard to the touch within 10 minutes. Nice stuff. it cost US$3.89

Tomorrow I grind the fully-cured epoxy

If anyone reads this and has not done any grinding work on metal, then I advise full protection for the eyes and respiratory system. The very fine dust from the galvanized fittings was everywhere. I shudder at the thought of that getting into the lungs

.

Syrillian · 10-22-06

102206

Stage 2

Cutting of the front and rear panels. This was pretty basic, with only one exception. The standard Dremel Jig attachment only worked for three of the four cuts.

On the vertical cut at the front I ran into a problem. The guide line was too far away from the bottom for the jig to reach, and the opposite side was sitting at 45 degrees from the line that I needed to cut. To overcome this I came up with a jig for the jig.

I cut this line 2nd. I have found that doing the hardest cut last makes the task that much more difficult.

Then it was time for the PSU air-intake.

First came the four holes so that the existing posts on the rear of the drainframe could be used to mount the hardware. This was another one of those "gotta get it right the first time" deals - luck was with me. The holes lined up with only a very minute error (less than .5 mm). When the time comes the grill will be pressed into the holes, and will sit flush. The Sharpie marker outline is the silhoette of the PSU location (Jeez! Lazy man!)

Then cutting the hole for the air intake:

The diameter of the hole just about encompasses the hole on the drainframe, I will have to do a little doctoring for 4 of the holes that are eclipsed by about 1/8 of an inch of acrylic.

And the rough-finished panels:

Syrillian · 10-29-06

Been a busy week, so I was only able to work in small increments of time. this is far less efficient, but such is the way of life's little bumps. Our forum is going through some growing pains as there is a divide in the upper ranks. This too shall pass. I only hope that things will work out amiably in the end.

As for my project: This week was mostly about getting the housing ready so that I can mount the PSU.

the following images are just part of the process. I drilled the holes for the flange, and finished the front intake. I needed to do a little more excavating so that none of the acrylic was eclipsing the openings in the grill (shower drain).

And here are some images of the pieces loosely assembled for show only:

Last week I used epoxy to fill the low areas of the galvanized pipe fittings. Man! That stuff is impressive, hard as granite. Here is an image of the sanded fittings:

the galvanized pipe fittings and flanges are going to weigh a lot! I would say 8-10lbs (3.6-4.5kgs)

Thatsa lotta weight....and that doesn't include all the other junk that is going on top of that. I tested the original which was made of clear acrylic by standing on it. It held 170lbs (77.3kg) without a whimper. This made me

'cause the smoke-colored acrylic case is made stronger than the original. I guess I won't have to build an outrigger weight support afterall. ...Shame really, I ran accoss these SS rails that I want to use. These rails were a decorative arc on a granite slab chip display (retail display) that my company was tossing out. I quickly took the screwdriver and dremel to it and liberated these parts. We'll see if I can find a legitimate use for them...

Here is the hardware that I selected for the mounting flanges. I also found this high-density rubber mat (6mm / 1/4 inch) that I will make gaskets out of. Oh yeah, and the mat cost US$ .99 - nice, since I just ran into it and I had yet to solve the gasket material issue. I had originally considered a self-adhesive felt (I already had it), but it was very thin. Glad I found the mat.

and the completed gaskets:

Then came the Painting of the Grills and the plastic clips that I will be using for cable/wire management. I decided on painting the grills as they were 2 different colors. Since the galvanized parts were already going to be a matte-black, the grills would match.

+

=

That's all for now...I'm gonna get some

that this PSU housing will support all that weight without a hitch...

Syrillian · 10-29-06

102906

Okay I got the proof that this will support all that weight and not come crashing down... As you can see in the first image there is a bow in the base. This will not be the way in which the weight will be distributed by the flange. That distribution effect will look more like the second image where my weight is resting on the lower lip of the PSU housing where the flange will attach, not at the apex that is beyond the center of gravity that I intend to use.

and

I weight about 170lbs. My hands are gently touching the table to balance myself, and my left leg is bent behind me.

This removes a massive weight from my mind. I kept having this fear that I would have to start all over again...so far so good.

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This'll be FUN!!

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