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Old 11-29-06   #411 (permalink)
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Sweet man!! That's tiiiite!!


Really like that..I'm thinking of using something similar, since you liked my Flat Capacitive Proximity Switch Idea..=)

Anywho, I wonder if you should have extended the wall up a little ways, and a little over, above the mobo??

Like an "L" Shape...that would almost butt up against the PSU...and sorta hide the open area above the mobo also...I don't think you'd need anymore screws to hold it down either. D-Plate is pretty stiff....

I know you have more to cut from, that's why I'm saying it..=)
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Last edited by BrinNutz : 11-29-06 at 11:51 PM.
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Old 11-29-06   #412 (permalink)
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Looks Amazing . I hope to do some work w/ my wires over christmas break, i'll look into the pseudo wall idea, it'd be easier than cutting out mobo tray.
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Old 11-29-06   #413 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrinNutz View Post
Sweet man!! That's tiiiite!!


Really like that..I'm thinking of using something similar, since you liked my Flat Capacitive Proximity Switch Idea..=)

Anywho, I wonder if you should have extended the wall up a little ways, and a little over, above the mobo??

I know you have more to cut from, that's why I'm saying it..=)
Thanks! I actually wouldnt mind if it went up a little higher, but I was originally trying to get it even with the mobo. As far as wider, the ATX power cable is really fat and I had to force the wall down so I could reach the stand offs, so I dont think I could go any wider, there just would be any room for that power cable.

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Old 11-29-06   #414 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gobygoby View Post
Thanks! I actually wouldnt mind if it went up a little higher, but I was originally trying to get it even with the mobo. As far as wider, the ATX power cable is really fat and I had to force the wall down so I could reach the stand offs, so I dont think I could go any wider, there just would be any room for that power cable.
Re-read my post above, I edited it b4 you posted..lol..

L-Shape, only wider above the mobo...same width where you have it now...
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Old 11-29-06   #415 (permalink)
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Here's a quick sketch..LOL

Note : Not drawn to scale...LOL
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Old 11-30-06   #416 (permalink)
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ok, i gotcha. Thats a good idea, but to make it easy, I could just add another piece on top instead of making the L out of one whole piece. Something I could add in the future! Good tip!

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Old 11-30-06   #417 (permalink)
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NICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!! the mangement is great ownz mine :P
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Old 11-30-06   #418 (permalink)
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NICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!! the mangement is great ownz mine :P
Thanks! Cool, I have never Pwned anything before! lol...

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Old 11-30-06   #419 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gobygoby View Post
ok, i gotcha. Thats a good idea, but to make it easy, I could just add another piece on top instead of making the L out of one whole piece. Something I could add in the future! Good tip!
Just a thought...It may look at bit better as one piece, and, you won't have to drill anymore holes in the case or the d-plate...=)
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Old 11-30-06   #420 (permalink)
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USB CHRISTMAS LIGHT MOD!!



I sampled this mod from here.

Here is his instructions:

Quote:
1. Get a USB connector cable (preferably from cablesforless.com so you dont get ripped off http://www.cablesforless.com/index.a...D&ProdID=1146).

2. Get some batterry operated Christmas lights. These can be purchased at Ace Hardware, Walmart or even your local dollar store.
Get the ones that use a 5 volt powersupply. (2 batterry or 3 battery ones work nicely.)

3. Cut the batterry pack off of the Christmas lights.

4. Strip the USB connector cable and the red and black wires inside.

5. Solder the red (+) and black (-) USB wires to the positive and negative wires of the Christmas lights respectively. You may want to verify with a multimeter before you solder to insure you have the correct wires.

7. You now have a really cool set of USB christmas lights! Geektacular!
So I was at Walgreens and saw a battery powered light kit and decided to give it a go.

Here is a hardware list:
Battery power xmas lights: $5.99
Elmers gel instant glue: already had
Some type of USB cable: already had
---------------
total cost for me = ~$6.00

Glue


Christmas Lights


USB cable ( I used some weird USB to network jobby )


Christmas Lights un-boxed


Battery compartment opened


Wires stripped on the USB cable


Testing...........IT WORKS! I trusted the above instructions and used the red as + and the black as -. then I just read the inside of the battery compartment to see -/+ I just looked how the batteries were setup in there.


Testing w/lights off


Closer shot


Closer closer shot


So next I decided to keep the original container but only use a portion of it to make it less bulky. So I cut the front off the top and bottom and cut the back plate off as well.





Here I test fit the pieces together and drilled a hole in one end for the usb cord.





Next was to cut off the white and green wire since they are not needed.


I put some shink tubing over the end of the USB to protect any exposed from cutting the wires above


Now I am starting to strip the wires for connecting


got the wires connected and used the shrink tubing to protect the wires and keep them together ( after twisting them together) since they are such a small guage.


I added a zip tie to the USB cable so if its yanked on it wont rip apart from the light module.


glueing the top on


another shot of the top glued on


And finally glued the back on


And now your all done. Sit back, relax and enjoy your new USB powered Christmas Light Awesomeness!













Happy Holidays!

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