CyberDruid

Well first I need to trim them down from 6 x 5.5 inches to something like 5.75 x 5--most likely I will fabricate some stand-offs that run all the way through the 120mm fans and catch the existing mounting holes in the grills.

I chose clear because I have these killer looking acrylic and stainless mesh filters which should be something to see over those red LED fans...and then the honeycomb acrylic over that will make more pretty light patterns I am guessing.

Been looking at Velocitor (about 18" away lol) and visualising how to OWN that front panel and make it 100% MINE...and I think this might be the way.

One of the changes from Velocitor is to reduce the res to one Bay instead of two--this will free up two bays for other devices. I figured this was needed since not everyone wants just a single Slot Loading DVD burner in the front.

Personally I rarely use two drives at once so I actually hate seeing all those empty bays...hence the dual bay res in Velocitor. But it seems I am in the minority there. And I do not want my customers to feel limited by my tastes so I downsized the res.

This will make the front a little different in layout than Velocitor which is alright..change is good. I will group the 2 3-Bay pull out units together and put them at the bottom and the res at the top and that will put two empty slots between the res and the LED fans below--which I think is going to be a good thing since they are not going to be exactly the same hue of red.

I was considering masking off the red res leaving only a "sight-glass" vial type shape on the front and painting the rest charcoal black to match the case--then the difference in color will be even less conspicuous and I will have made the res my own too...

But until I see how it looks I won't know. That's why I also bought modders mesh--if I don't like the acrylic treatment to the front I will fabricate one out of mesh.

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Derek1387

there ya go...how long you think this mod is oging to take you? I am very excited, and owuld easily dump a bit of money into something like this.

dannyyboii

Approximately, how much would you be selling it for?

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CyberDruid

At this point the parts for the LCC Antec 900 are around $650. That's what it costs to get the rad, pump, res, tubing, fluid, case, fans. lights, and misc bits (sheathing etc) (I detailed this in a previous post to this thread) and that's before any profit on my part.

Then factor in no less than $150 for paint (that would be the deal of the century IMO considering how much work it takes to make an auto-grade paint job)

I think you get the picture...

As I said on this first case I would be willing to give a break on my labor--but I will not be selling this case for less than it cost to build

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Derek1387

sounds like ap lan. i may have to buy it too.. lol

CyberDruid

The actual fitting with rad and res and pump is not too long--then the fans all get refitted--and a fan controller is added. Of course UV lights go in to the res and the case and all the leads from all the fans and lights are worked into a harness, sheathed, and simplified down to one or two molex. Then some mirror trim panels are fitted over the bay side and the floor of the case with standoffs--these are removable and hide the PSU cabling and any other wiring for the case. One special feature that I have not been able to start work on is the top panel that morphs the rad into the overall look of the case. So how long do you think that would take? LOL...I intend to find out!

Although I actually like seeing the PA160 on top of Velocitor I think it would be more pro to fabricate a nice panel that drops over the rad with a mesh grill to protect it and has a niche in it for a fan controller that is color matched to the case lighting. This will be a cast resin piece (ideally of carbon fiber) that is color matched or contrast painted to the case color.

In my mind the great unkown is just how long it will take to paint the case inside and out. I have the equipment, the knowledge and the skills to do it--but until I actually go through all the steps it will be difficult to say how long that will take. One concern is giving the paint an adequate time to cure and take a final polish and waxing. Once I am properly set up for that I will let you know.

I actually like the finish that comes on the Antec 900--but that's a personal taste thing. What I am thinking about doing to my own Antec 900 is painting the removable faceplate and top cover panel the same color as the UV red coolant in the 2 bay res...I think that would look trick and be easy to do. But I was thinking that masking off the res and painting it to match the case except for a "sight glass" would be cool--and make the perimeter red color stand out more...



I found these nylon catches for the stand offs for the mirror panels at West marine...I use these a lot on boats--they're very secure and rugged and withstand years of use--it's a simple non mechanical catch--ball in cup--and they are just about the length I am looking for in a stand off. On the cup piece I'll rivet a 1" piece of 1" aluminum angle and use a piece of industrial double-sided tape to adhere it to the case interior--I will then attach the ball piece to the acrylic mirror with some 3M 5200-- and there ya go--mirrored panel with no fasteners on a stand off that you can remove by gently prying upward.

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Whyifide

Any possibility you could do this to my 900?

CyberDruid

Absolutely. Anything you need just PM me so we can work the details. I'll be running some For Sale threads when I am actually in production so we can handle this correctly.

I hope to offer a complete kit for the Antec 900 within a month--or any part of that kit. That would mean the mrror cover plates, the complete LCC conversion (I prep your case and either mount the LC components or send them back with your modded case), the modded front panel, & the top panel with fancontroller installed or not, painted or unpainted.

I doubt I will be selling any individual components like resevoirs and radiators and pumps and tubing and waterblocks as those are better for you to get directly from the online vendors...but I do intend to put together a complete kit for the Antec. That would be the MPC655 pump, Storm or Apogee WaterBlock, PA 160 Radiator, AC Ryan Resevoir (which are getting harder to come by every day) or one just like it that I fabricate, DD Filports for fill and drain, LED lights for the resevoir with sheathed leads, all the tubing required for a CPU loop precut and labeled, fittings and clamps and instructions (written in terrible Chinese ).

Unlike some kits this one is truly state of the art in WaterCooling using components that are universally acknowledged to be the best available. But due to the way it mounts to the Antec 900 it is not something that can be "bolted on"--holes need to be drilled in very specific locations. So I will provide a template for the true DIYer to layout for the fill, drain and rad tubing holes.

BTW the case arrived today along with the fans and the lights and the pumps and fan controllers...so it is starting to roll right along. Waiting on rad, res, tubing.



The acrylic also arrived today--but I will not even open that until I have a proper place to work...it's way too expensive to try and work on some sawhorses out in the yard (although I have been seen doing just that LOL)


Notice the sawhorses in the background lol...


Making pink snow....

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Derek1387

I am going to have to get a copy of those plans from ya. I want to WC so bad. I just have no idea how to go about it. Now, these plans will work with any wyater cooling setup most likely... correct?

I have a Zalman setup right now, but i want to try modding my case a bit... i just have no idea how to go about it

CyberDruid

I dunno if you could call it a plan. The best cooling set up IMO is a Storm Waterblock (Swiftech) an MPC 655 or D-5 rev. 2 pump (Swifty or DD) and a Thermochill PA 160 rad (good luck finding one..I might have gotten the last ones) or if you want a 120 profiled rad the PA120.2 or 120.3. Use good tubing. I used to like Tygon--but the Primoflex takes a bend even better without twisting or collapsing.

And there you have the "plan" excepting the res and filling ports and so on--those are not really performance items--in fact you can eliminate the res altogether with a tee line.

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Current Project: CalligaCab: TV stand/bookshelf/PC-case