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Old 01-12-08   #131 (permalink)
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First, I do like the handles after seeing the case with the mirrored window. You were right.

Second, just remove the sticker from the PSU entirely, it will look fine nekkid. Besides, you won't even see the PSU once that mobo is installed. LOL! BTW - that DFI mobo looks really, really cool!!

As we talk about the handles, how are you thinking of supporting them between the metal top and the plastic top? Is that the fat metal posts/sleeves that you mentioned? I think we're still on the same page with that approach. Screw through the posts/sleeves to the handles through the plastic, from under the metal top. I don't think I would just use washers under the metal top, I think I would reinforce the area with some metal (aluminum?) under the metal top so that each screw distributes the forces evenly.

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Old 01-12-08   #132 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RnG
handles are secured with "the fat metal posts/sleeves that you mentioned?"
I think we're still on the same page with that approach.
Screw through the posts/sleeves to the handles through the plastic, from under the metal top.
werd

be zactly where I am comin from my fine brutha.
Yes, bracing of some type is probably a very good idea (but again, I'm a "tipper" not a "lifter")
Lotta work cutting metal.
I am really have no shop area here at Casa Del Crazy Carl.
And they probably won't plow the La Quinta parking lot until the spring

<contempating in haid>
hmm, wonder if I know anyone with the proper tools to cut a coupla holes in a steel "plate" for me.
The Steel shouldn't need to be too thick.
Just a 1" wide plate the width of the chassis interior with the holes in the correct position.
couple of the suckers.

DFI mobo:
Just found this and it looks ohsofrikken kewl.
Quote:
An equally appreciated function is the simplified "Clear CMOS" function.
To clear the CMOS, simply press both the EZ Power and the EZ Restart button at the same time for about four seconds.
Then release the power button first, then the reset button.
This function will hopefully also work with the power on and reset buttons on the chassis.
Bet I've cleared the CMOS (needing to remove battery and move jumper) hundreds of times
I love the on-board Power and Reset switches on the LanParty boards.
I always test the setup "out of the case" first.

The SATA cables look nice.
Decent thickness, pliable and a nice UV.
I'm thinking the blue and green interior will compliment the black and silver exterior.

So any ideals on the fan hub decal?

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Old 01-12-08   #133 (permalink)
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Here's an idea for mounting the handles;

1) remove the plastic studs in the highlighted areas
2) drill holes for the handles into the plastic top and case for the handles
3) get metal plates (maybe 25mmx200mm) and drill holes to match screwholes for the handle (3 per handle = 6 total)
4) install handles with all-thread; namely: Handle -> plastic top -> metal plate -> double-nut -> space -> double-nut -> metal plate -> case -> metal plate -> double-nut (can also use nylock nuts instead of the double-nuts)
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Originally Posted by Syrillian View Post
This place is madness... Foxes that make me convulse, flying monkeys, inane videos of sub-par Family's with less than desireable IQ's, music galore.... and somewhere amidst this beautiful insanity... a plastic box that may even be completed someday.

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Old 01-12-08   #134 (permalink)
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Those handles look great. imho they intergrated really well, and look natural.

Yah... I detest decals as well. The PSU fan decal might be accessible if you can remove the grill only (ala puzzle box). It looks as though you could remove and replace the screws without them falling into the PSU housing.

Looking good.

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Old 01-12-08   #135 (permalink)
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OK, seems like we are all on the page here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by radodrill View Post
Here's an idea for mounting the handles;
1) remove the plastic studs in the highlighted areas
yup, just thinking about how to remove them
2) drill holes for the handles into the plastic top and case for the handles
3) get metal plates (maybe 25mmx200mm) and drill holes to match screw holes for the handle (3 per handle = 6 total)
I still don't get the 3 and the 6
the handle has two holes

4) install handles with all-thread; namely: Handle -> plastic top -> metal plate -> double-nut -> space -> double-nut -> metal plate -> case -> metal plate -> double-nut (can also use nylock nuts instead of the double-nuts)
cept the bolts go in from the metal plate, through the underside of the top, through the big fat posts, through the plastic top, and into the handles (with appropriate grommets, lockwashers, or nuts of course).
(I want to make sure it is not TOO difficult to remove the top if necessary.)
Syr - thanks again.
I may go and look for more handles later but I'm liking them more everyday.

Maybe a little of that UV paint after I cover the fan hub decal.
(I will admit I am currently playing with Bill's "CarbonFibre" vinyl.)

checklist:
handle mounting plan - Done!
"And then?"
Corsair decal deal - Done, use none.
"And then?"

Well, the plaques should be delivered while I am on the road to Chicago.
I think they'll be a nice touch.
I'll let you be the judge next week.

System: Project SR-1/SR-2/LL PC-32
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Case
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Zalman 9700LED/9700NT/9700NT
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Old 01-12-08   #136 (permalink)
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Answers in red

Quote:
Here's an idea for mounting the handles;
1) remove the plastic studs in the highlighted areas
yup, just thinking about how to remove them
Dremel remove fan first
2) drill holes for the handles into the plastic top and case for the handles
3) get metal plates (maybe 25mmx200mm) and drill holes to match screw holes for the handle (3 per handle = 6 total)
I still don't get the 3 and the 6
the handle has two holes
each plate spanning the width of one handle
4) install handles with all-thread; namely: Handle -> plastic top -> metal plate -> double-nut -> space -> double-nut -> metal plate -> case -> metal plate -> double-nut (can also use nylock nuts instead of the double-nuts)
cept the bolts go in from the metal plate, through the underside of the top, through the big fat posts, through the plastic top, and into the handles (with appropriate grommets, lockwashers, or nuts of course).
(I want to make sure it is not TOO difficult to remove the top if necessary.)

By using the all-thread and the nuts you just need to remove the nuts on the inside of the case, the all-thread and handle stay attached to the plastic top; I'll make up 2D sketch to show what I have in mind
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Syrillian View Post
This place is madness... Foxes that make me convulse, flying monkeys, inane videos of sub-par Family's with less than desireable IQ's, music galore.... and somewhere amidst this beautiful insanity... a plastic box that may even be completed someday.

System: RAD GT
CPU
Q6600 G0
Motherboard
DFI Lanparty UT 680i SLI LT T2R/G
Memory
2x1Gb DDR2-1150 OCZ Reaper
Graphics Card
2x BFG 8800 GTX OC
Hard Drive
250Gb SATA | 3x 500Gb SATA | 750Gb SATA
Sound Card
Creative X-Fi XtremeGamer
Power Supply
SilverStone Strider ST1000
Case
DIY -- Acrylic
CPU cooling
DangerDen TDX
GPU cooling
DangerDen 8800GTX waterblocks
OS
Windows XP X64/Windows XP Pro
Monitor
Samsung 226BW
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Old 01-12-08   #137 (permalink)
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oooowwww <there goes that light bulb>

System: Project SR-1/SR-2/LL PC-32
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CPU cooling
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Old 01-12-08   #138 (permalink)
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Here's an x-sectional view of my thoughts on mounting the handles

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SR-1/2 radobases for Crazy Carl's Antec 900 mod

Modding/electronics/hardware supply thread | Hosted PC Component CAD Models

Quote:
Originally Posted by Syrillian View Post
This place is madness... Foxes that make me convulse, flying monkeys, inane videos of sub-par Family's with less than desireable IQ's, music galore.... and somewhere amidst this beautiful insanity... a plastic box that may even be completed someday.

System: RAD GT
CPU
Q6600 G0
Motherboard
DFI Lanparty UT 680i SLI LT T2R/G
Memory
2x1Gb DDR2-1150 OCZ Reaper
Graphics Card
2x BFG 8800 GTX OC
Hard Drive
250Gb SATA | 3x 500Gb SATA | 750Gb SATA
Sound Card
Creative X-Fi XtremeGamer
Power Supply
SilverStone Strider ST1000
Case
DIY -- Acrylic
CPU cooling
DangerDen TDX
GPU cooling
DangerDen 8800GTX waterblocks
OS
Windows XP X64/Windows XP Pro
Monitor
Samsung 226BW
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Old 01-12-08   #139 (permalink)
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Yeah, that's exactly what I was thinking! Nice job on the visual, Rado.

I agree with SYR on the fan decal. I'll bet you can get it off that way and it would be fairly simple. My recommendation is to verify that everything (including the PSU) works outside of the case, then do PSU fan surgery and fug the warranty if you have to! Throw caution to the wind and damn the torpedos, I tell ya!

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Old 01-14-08   #140 (permalink)
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courtesy of "Goo-Gone"

System: Project SR-1/SR-2/LL PC-32
CPU
E8400/Xeon3110/E8400
Motherboard
ASUS ME/DFI P35/UD3P
Memory
4GB GSkill DDR3/2G Mushkin DDR2/4GB GSkill
Graphics Card
eVGA 9800GT/XFX 8800GT/Giga 8800GT
Hard Drive
2x250G Hitachi/2x500GWD/2x640G WD
Sound Card
FX-II/Bernstein/OB
Power Supply
Ultra X-Pro 600W/Corsair HX-620/Ultra 600W
Case
Antec 900 SR-2/SR-1/Lian LI PC32
CPU cooling
Zalman 9700LED/9700NT/9700NT
GPU cooling
Arctic Cooling/Stock/Stock
OS
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Monitor
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