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Old 03-22-08   #251 (permalink)
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You certainly deserve it. This thread is a Compendium of classic techniques. Hats off to you sir. Well done
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Old 03-22-08   #252 (permalink)
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I would love to shake your hand..... I love it. Its so simple yet so awesome.
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Congrats! Well deserved!
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You certainly deserve it. This thread is a Compendium of classic techniques. Hats off to you sir. Well done
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Old 03-22-08   #253 (permalink)
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Test fitting the front. I think this thing will look KILLER!!
What is that paste may I ask? It looks perfect once painted.

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Old 03-23-08   #254 (permalink)
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What is that paste may I ask? It looks perfect once painted.
That would be body filler.
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Old 03-23-08   #255 (permalink)
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repo_man does it again!
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Old 03-23-08   #256 (permalink)
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That would be body filler.
Cool, is it easy to work with? I get the idea that you paste it on and then sand it down? I have used Milliput which is more model kit based and not really for large surfaces.

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Old 03-23-08   #257 (permalink)
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Cool, is it easy to work with? I get the idea that you paste it on and then sand it down? I have used Milliput which is more model kit based and not really for large surfaces.
I don't know how repo_man's body filler is, but I have been using the Bondo brand body filler and so far it is relatively easy to work with. I don't know if Millput would work though.
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Old 03-23-08   #258 (permalink)
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Cool, is it easy to work with? I get the idea that you paste it on and then sand it down? I have used Milliput which is more model kit based and not really for large surfaces.
I'm not familiar with milliput, but body filler (Bondo) is a product engineered for use in auto body repair. It is probably going to give you much less "workable" time, and is probalby quite a bit thinner while it is in its workable state. After mixed, it has the consistency similar to premixed drywall compound (Spackle), maybe a touch thicker. It sets to a point where it is no longer workable with a spreader/applicator in roughly 5 minutes. This includes the time spent mixing it with the hardening agent.

After about 15 minutes to a half an hour, the product is typically cured enough for shaping by sanding or filing. Depending on the complexity of the contours you are creating, and the level of finish you are hoping to achieve; this can take quite a while. Body fillers should also be applied in thin layers, so several applications may be needed to create certain contours.

Short answer is, Repo has experience working with body fillers, and probably makes its use look considerably easier than it may actually be for a novice. Getting a finished result like you see in this mod takes a fair investment of time and a level of craftsmanship that can really only be learned through experience.

Please don't let that last statement deter you from trying it. The technique is tried and true and can yield spectacular and unique results. I just wanted to give you an honest assesment of what you might be getting into.
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Old 03-23-08   #259 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Warfarin88 View Post
I'm not familiar with milliput, but body filler (Bondo) is a product engineered for use in auto body repair. It is probably going to give you much less "workable" time, and is probalby quite a bit thinner while it is in its workable state. After mixed, it has the consistency similar to premixed drywall compound (Spackle), maybe a touch thicker. It sets to a point where it is no longer workable with a spreader/applicator in roughly 5 minutes. This includes the time spent mixing it with the hardening agent.

After about 15 minutes to a half an hour, the product is typically cured enough for shaping by sanding or filing. Depending on the complexity of the contours you are creating, and the level of finish you are hoping to achieve; this can take quite a while. Body fillers should also be applied in thin layers, so several applications may be needed to create certain contours.

Short answer is, Repo has experience working with body fillers, and probably makes its use look considerably easier than it may actually be for a novice. Getting a finished result like you see in this mod takes a fair investment of time and a level of craftsmanship that can really only be learned through experience.

Please don't let that last statement deter you from trying it. The technique is tried and true and can yield spectacular and unique results. I just wanted to give you an honest assesment of what you might be getting into.
Very well put, I am working on a major bondo based case mod rite now ([Project] Unwanted). I have never used bondo before, and so far it hasn't been to hard to work with. It definitely becomes unworkable very quick (like he said about 5 minutes). So far I have found that it is best to mix small batches of Bondo at a time, as to not waste a large batch and give more time to apply it.
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Old 03-23-08   #260 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warfarin88 View Post
I'm not familiar with milliput, but body filler (Bondo) is a product engineered for use in auto body repair. It is probably going to give you much less "workable" time, and is probalby quite a bit thinner while it is in its workable state. After mixed, it has the consistency similar to premixed drywall compound (Spackle), maybe a touch thicker. It sets to a point where it is no longer workable with a spreader/applicator in roughly 5 minutes. This includes the time spent mixing it with the hardening agent.

After about 15 minutes to a half an hour, the product is typically cured enough for shaping by sanding or filing. Depending on the complexity of the contours you are creating, and the level of finish you are hoping to achieve; this can take quite a while. Body fillers should also be applied in thin layers, so several applications may be needed to create certain contours.

Short answer is, Repo has experience working with body fillers, and probably makes its use look considerably easier than it may actually be for a novice. Getting a finished result like you see in this mod takes a fair investment of time and a level of craftsmanship that can really only be learned through experience.

Please don't let that last statement deter you from trying it. The technique is tried and true and can yield spectacular and unique results. I just wanted to give you an honest assesment of what you might be getting into.
Man, I appreciate you guys taking care of the thread while I was away for a wedding (awesome weather btw, down on the AL coast ) I think Warf pretty well summed it up. I'd also like to add that you can alter the curing and working time with body filler.
Two things can alter this-
1. Temperature
2. Hardener

For 1. if its 90 degrees outside, you need less filler as the heat from the outside will cause it to cure faster. Hotter outside = less hardener. Colder/wetter outside = more hardener

So 2. of course, onces you've adjusted for temp, then you can adjust the hardener for what suits you. If you have a large area to cover as in xlastshotx's build, it would be better to use less hardener so you have more working time. This will allow you to mix more filler up and cover a larger area. Contrastingly, if you dont put enough hardener in the filler will stay semi-cured and 'sticky'. If you do that though, simply mix another coat with a little more hardener than you would normally use and put on top of the 'sticky' coat. The 'hot' coat on top will usually cure the bottom layer.

All that being said, yes I do have alot of experience with bondo filler. Have worked 3+ years in auto shops so I make it look somewhat simpler than it would be for someone starting that doesnt have a clue.

However, have no fears. Its not hard to mess up and even if you do you can always sand off your excess and start it again. The only way to get to this point is by experience. You can't read a/b bondo and be good at it, you just have to get dirty! lol
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