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Old 03-30-08   #281 (permalink)
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Nice work Syrillian, as always. Aha, but I have a tip for you!

Recently a couple friends of mine and I were reconstructing an old boat we purchased. Long story short, we have a lot of fiberglass to lay. While not carbon fiber, the structure of the material and whatnot is very similar to carbon fiber. When sanding/grinding the fiberglass, we used the protective masks and we also covered any exposed skin...with baby powder. Yep. Good ol' baby powder reduced the itchiness of the fiberglass shards/dust.
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Old 03-30-08   #282 (permalink)
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Thanks Warf!

Heh!... Ya, arekiah... I have started "formulating" a Carbon Fiber case.
...but good-godfrey is it expensive material.

Repo. The cut went fairly smoothly and quckly. Upon close inspection of the flutes after the cut was made I noticed a build up of fiberous material that was hardened to the blade... a sign of the RPMs being too high... or perhaps inherent to the material ???

Thanks, OpieWan.... don't think that I have met you before. It's a pleasure to do so.

Lol...yomama... yeah, I got so high off that resin (Marine resin, guys ) ...but it was not pleasant at all. I will not be that careless again. I need to preserve what gray matter I have that has some semblance of functionality.

R-n-G ! So glad you found me, I am always pleased to get your advice and input. In regards to your RPM comment, and refering to my comment to Repo; do you think the RPM's were too high?

Anyone?

Thanks for the input, Gents.

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Old 03-30-08   #283 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afzsom View Post
Nice work Syrillian, as always. Aha, but I have a tip for you!

Recently a couple friends of mine and I were reconstructing an old boat we purchased. Long story short, we have a lot of fiberglass to lay. While not carbon fiber, the structure of the material and whatnot is very similar to carbon fiber. When sanding/grinding the fiberglass, we used the protective masks and we also covered any exposed skin...with baby powder. Yep. Good ol' baby powder reduced the itchiness of the fiberglass shards/dust.
Powder Me, Baby!

Woot for that one! I'm seriously gonna try it.

+

...and yeah... Full-Filtering protection is not optional.... unless one wants to win a Darwin Award.
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Old 03-30-08   #284 (permalink)
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Looks good, after you trim off the excess fibers take a little resin and put it on the edges and they will be shiny like the rest of it and it will stop any fraying from being handled and such.
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Old 03-30-08   #285 (permalink)
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Great work Syr. I'm amazed at how clean and even the surface is on those pieces. I'll bee on the lookout for some actual case parts.
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Old 03-30-08   #286 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Syrillian View Post
Thanks Warf!
(SNIP)

R-n-G ! So glad you found me, I am always pleased to get your advice and input. In regards to your RPM comment, and refering to my comment to Repo; do you think the RPM's were too high?

No, I think that is why your cut is as clean as it is. Keep the RPMs up for clean cuts on CF. As ice_owl said be sure to put some resin on the ends to keep the fibers from fraying! It has been a long time since I've worked with fibrous composite materials like CF or kevlar. (my background is in material science/metallurgy) I'll reiterate what others have said, do not machine CF without excellent respiratory protection. Fiberglass is lame stuff compared to CF particulate!! Don't slack on safety with this stuff, it isn't worth risking your health.

BTW - I love the organization at the beginning of your thread. Very well done!

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Old 03-30-08   #287 (permalink)
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I missed your question about the CF bonding to the bit, it is sort of an RPM issue, but really a heat issue. You need to find a way to dissipate some heat off that bit, otherwise you're going to see some molecular bonding take place. Heat excites molecules, Carbon likes to bond...messy clean up for you. I cannot for the life of me remember what we used to use to coat the bits/blades with. It looked like a soap bar, but was more like a silicon oil (but not oil exactly). Maybe it was teflon based, I dunno ... that was back in 1989. I just remember it was fairly inert and wouldn't react with either the CF or the hardened bits. I'll sleep on it and see if I remember.

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Old 03-30-08   #288 (permalink)
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Syr, you could use oil to keep the blades cool- I doubt it would react with the resin, and for sure wouldn't react with the bit. You could use it in a can with a spout to make application easier.

Or at least that's what I would do if I had to do this stuff
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Old 03-30-08   #289 (permalink)
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Thanks for the comments, especially the ones concerning health of self and health for tools.

I revere my tools... all tools. Without them we would still be living in caves and entertaining ourselves with crude drawings on the walls.... and the upper-class would have fire and therefore shadow puppets. -lol.

erm...okey... sawry...




So... thank you Repo and Burn for your input. + for Repo, and a benevolent thought for Burn as you are precluded from such social nicities as "Rep" Your creedence has been verified and cast; testimony to this is your OCN standing, and the quote in your sig.

Ice - thanks for the tip on resin-coating. The entire diaper is rock-hard and was soaked in resin, and completely rid of air pockets and bubbles prior to sealing up the from. It is difficult to tell from the pic, but is solid as a rock.... still, I think that you are handing me good advice as the added coat would surely give it a higher sheen (+).

Sheesh! ... the CF looks like liquid it is so smooth and clean... I love it!

Sum0n3 - Thanks for the nod. Yeah... I was taken aback somewhat as I was not expecting the cut to go so quickly (4-second run) and smoothly.

Again, thanks for chiming in Guys.



update shortly.
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Old 03-30-08   #290 (permalink)
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A few comments have been made concerning respiratory protection, a thought that I am grateful for.

This is the mask that I wear when I am sanding acrylic and cutting carbon fiber panels.






For the profiling I am using a little Dremel attachment. It is nice as it is readily handled with one hand for smaller jobs.






Panels:

Here is the first cut that I made for the large top-side exhaust.






This is the round-over prior to sanding and buffing.




A test-fit for the grill that will cover the fan:






Here is the motherboard-side panel showing the sanded edges. Generally I use 80 grit to bring the edge flush and clean, and then switch directly to 320 or 400 before going to the polishing phase.








The top panel is the only one that does not have a multiple tier face. I don’t know what it will look like, but in my imagination it does not look all that appealing.

There was also the issue of the fan controllers. I like having the controls outside of the case and readily accessible. An odd desire as I rarely touch then once I have the rpm’s dialed in. Never-the-less I still wanted them on the outside.

One of the issues with the fan controllers is mounting them in a manner that is not too obtrusive, but readily accessible. I decided to try and kill 2 birds with one stone.

The top panel will get a black acrylic veneer that will give more dimension to the plane as well as provide a small berm or “foxhole” for the fan controller knobs; the Power switch will most likely also end up in the trench with them.

The design follows suit insofar as the backside of the motherboard panel (the cross-looking thingy). I attempted to give it an organic quality by keeping sharp right-angles to a minimum.



In the image above you can see the aperture for the Fill-Port.



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