Scratch: Silentium~Arcane Arts - Page 83 - Overclock.net

Syrillian · 06-23-08

Had me a little "cutting day"

I spent a few hours this morning making some stuff:

The 2 curved pieces are scraps/left-overs from from the top bezel. The one on the bottom-left will be used in the motherboard support area... I'm not certain about the other piece, but I think that something will present itself sooner or later.

Acrylic Smores:

The piece that is sitting on edge has been bonded. My intention is to have one on each corner (each one staggered outward on both sides of the vertical planes), and a single one dead-center.

I still need to do the ogee-profile on them, and I hope to get to that tomorrow or at the lates by Wednsday.... pretty much need to have them complete before I start drilling and cutting on the bottom panel.

These will be the uprights for the HDD cage. The HDD's will sit canted at an angle and staggered vertically. I have yet to decide wether I will place access to the HDD cage from the front of the case, or perhpas mount them on a sliding tray that is accessible from the backside.

Here are the panels, the mouting rails and the small "stilts" for the single optical drive (slot-fed Plextor):

Oh Yay!... I see more polishing in my near-future....Joy!

forcifer · 06-23-08

your precision leaves me in awe...keep the updates coming

whats the end result supposed to looks like (roughly)? ive been wondering for a really long time now...

iandroo888 · 06-23-08

Quote:

Originally Posted by Syrillian

Androo... you cheeky monkey!

...always tricking me...

As for scratches, it depends upon how deep they are. I see that you have lapped before; the process is similar, but on a larger scale.

Fine swirl marks (can't really be felt with the hand) can be sanded with 1200 sandpaper and the buffed out; first with a muslin wheel, and then finished off with a specialised plastic polish.

If you can feel the scratch when you run your hand over it then It will be a little harder and take longer. You could always sand out and re-polish the specific area, but I have found that it is difficult (for me) to match a factory polish exactly. That end-difference in conjunction with the ]a low spot on the panel will reveal a perturbation when viewed...

...I guess it depends upon how picky you are.

To protect an exposed panel: I would try to use Painter Tape (Blue in color). there are several different grades (7-day, 12-day...). I would not recommend using masking tape as there is a good chance that a residue will be left behind, or that the tape will not lift cleanly when it is time to be removed.

erm.. wich cuts are you inquiring after?

Update in a few.

the one with the 4 shaped holes. with a rounded cut in the middle.

i was thinkin of sanding the entire panel then "polishing" it .. whats a muslin wheel?

yah i use painters tape from home depot. dunoe time limit but oh well. they are primarily indoors when not being worked on so should last a bit longer.

nice update!

Syrillian · 06-23-08

Thanks, forcifer. I hope to keep churning along on this as (for now) it is my only PC-related project.

Sorry, I have no drawings or sketches. This one is from inside my head. um...lets see... perhaps this will give you an idea.

Tall and rectangular
windows on both L & R panels
twin radiators up front
Red lighting (CCFL and UV)
Carbon fiber motherboard tray
Carbon fiber braces with additional acylic coving
Multi-option front panels (various sized radiators, or combinations of fans for air-cooling only option, or a hybrid of the 2)
Scripts visible through right-side panel
Gas-strut front door that hinges on the top edge (loop drain-assist as well as case access)

Androo ~ There was indeed an specific order that the holes, arcs and lines needed to be cut.

Center hole
Inner arcs (closest to the center hole)
Outer arcs (closest to the perimeter)
straight lines

Although not as important in this piece, some other pieces have guide-requirements that dictate the order. Sometimes a straight edge that is to be removed will be need to be used as the guid on an inside cut.

Some consideration prior to starting the work should alleviate any mishaps.... actually that is not always true. I have worked my way into a corner wherein I needed a piece of the panel (as a guide or support) that I already cut out... time to start again...

**repo_man** · 06-23-08

That HDD mount is looking awesome, very imaginative! How are you planning on actually mounting the HDD's in the slots? My suggestion is a rubber grommet (or something like that) on both sides, then the HDD 'slides' in between them, the pressure of the rubber holds it tight. Some trucks that carry glass windows and such have these things. No hard mounting required and the rubber would ast as a vibration barrier.

tr8rjohnk · 06-23-08

Hey Syr, this is really looking great.

One question, what did you use to make the cuts for the "smores"? Tablesaw?

Syrillian · 06-23-08

Hiyah Gents.....

Repo ~ Indeed you are correct. The image shows what will be the vertical panels, and I use rubber washers for anti-vibration. In this build I think that I will make the cage rigid, not simply two panels screwed to the HDD's themselves. I still have those graphite tubes, so I may use those for the crosss-members..... but I am still undecided as to the design as it is still fluid and I hope dynamic.

Brother-John ~ I will be shaping the Acrylic Smores (

) with a standard "Roman Ogee" router bit, router and my homemade router table. There is a slight glitch as the bit that I have is a 1/2" shank, and the small router I have has a 1/4" collet.

There are adapters available, or I may have to borrow a full-size router.

HAve a good day Gents...

tr8rjohnk · 06-23-08

Syr, I meant how did you cut into squares? The cuts are very clean.

**pjlietz** · 06-23-08

Wow Syrillian... I've been trying to find the right words for how awesome this is ever since you posted the top piece all polished up. But no words can do justice to how great this looks! This is pure art my friend! Just killer

Syrillian · 06-23-08

Thank you, PJ

John ~ sorry about my lapse in comprehension

.....now that I re-read your question I see what I missed. I used a small table saw (DeWalt) with a rip-guide, and a 80-tooth 10" blade.

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