Scratch: [Completed] The Intelligence - Page 15 - Overclock.net

nategr8ns · 07-11-08

too bad it cracked... where exactly is that crack? Or should I wait for more pics

?

so that JB weld is just epoxy? Or industrial strength epoxy? I guess all epoxy is pretty much heavy-duty.

epoxy

epoxy

CattleRustler · 07-11-08

luckily the acrylic mishap is not part of the build, just a mobo template that I can use going fwd in this, and other builds. Ill glue the corner on = fixed

the jb weld is like cold weld steel (supposedly). if you didnt see the acrylic crack its in the firsy pic but I think youre being cheeky, or im being daft. wouldnt be the first time

cheers

wastedtime · 07-12-08

Looks good CR . The acrylic can be totally fixed with some weld-on 3. Just make sure that you hold on to the broken piece

OT : I wanted to know if the Scroll saw is a good investment ? I was looking to buy the same one from Lowes. I still have to decide between a scroll saw and a jigsaw (because my old cheapo jigsaw is almost dead ). A scroll saw is a lot more versatile but it is gonna make a lot more noise (which is a concern when you live in a small apartment with lots of neighbors) . I am assuming the jigsaw will give me straighter cuts because I can move it along a straight edge guide. I mostly intend to cut acrylic between 1/4" to 3/8" in size. And just one more thing how easy is it to change blades on the scroll saw??

CattleRustler · 07-12-08

Well, a scroll saw doesnt replace a jig saw, but I guess for some things a scroll saw can be used instead. To answer your specific questions (based on this exact model of saw and my experience)

Noise: Whisper quiet when running and cutting
Straight Cuts: I used a spiral blade and a make-shift fence and got a super straight cut on that acrylic
Changing Blades: Pin end blades=mild PITA, plain end blades=big PITA - but as you get used to it, and better at it, it becomes eaiser and faster

Speed of cut vs Jig: Slower. Cutting on a scroll saw is slower going, focused on precision
Good Investment?: for me it was, but thats a bit subjective I guess. I find that its a very versatile tool, great for straight cuts or any crazy shapes you desire (inside cuts and out - using spiral blades) Great for acrylic, but also can be used on wood and metals, provided you use the right blades. So far I find that a 46tpi spiral blade works great for mostly all cuts (wood and acrylic, havent tried metal yet) and you can adjust the SPM based on the the material and thickness. And being a musician helps. How so? When you tension the blades you twang em like a guitar string and they resonate as such, so lets just say that I "tune" the blade, and can keep it consistent after detensioning and changing blades. Blades are cheap, but you go thru em fairly quickly (12 spirals is about 5 bucks at lowes)

hope that helps

nategr8ns · 07-12-08

Quote:

Originally Posted by CattleRustler

luckily the acrylic mishap is not part of the build, just a mobo template that I can use going fwd in this, and other builds. Ill glue the corner on = fixed

if you didnt see the acrylic crack its in the firsy pic but I think youre being cheeky, or im being daft. wouldnt be the first time

cheers

I saw the crack, I just didn't realize it was just a template. I thought it was the mobo tray or something, and I was wondering if the crack was in the back near the I/O or in the front.

CattleRustler · 07-12-08

Quote:

I saw the crack, I just didn't realize it was just a template. I thought it was the mobo tray or something, and I was wondering if the crack was in the back near the I/O or in the front.

yep, just a template

its cracked on the non-IO side so its no big deal, luckily. That thing has been coming in handy...

Update - good news

I just checked on the first JB Weld welded piece and its on there pretty darn solid! I was able to pick up the weight of the entire case by lifting it from only the welded on piece, so thats a good sign

Since there will be three of these, with the standoff rails mounted to each using two screws each, I think it will be plenty strong. I was able to mark off the mount point for the middle rail, and I will do the same for the left rail, then get both of those welded on first thing today. I just need to take a run to the hardware store and find 6 appropriate screws that I can use to mount the standoff rails to the base rails, and I need a masonry bit for something else

Hopefully these guys at the hw store have the tap info for the screws and bolts they sell

wastedtime · 07-12-08

Glad that the weld is holding up

Thanks for the info CR , that was perfect

. I am in the process of deciding between the dremel scroll station and the hitachi at lowes. I will probably end up going for the hitachi

CattleRustler · 07-12-08

yep, the dremel is nearly double the price without a stand, with the same features.
Lowes has the Hitachi for 160, the dremel is like 270 iirc

good luck, hopefully you dont get one with a cracked motor mount

now I have to have them come here and fix the blower motor, since it aint blowin

minor thing tho

CattleRustler · 07-12-08

The Intelligence - Day 04

Went to the hardware store and found perfect screws for my rail mounting system for the mobo - 1/2" flat point screws with an 8-32 tap. Drilled and tapped a test

perfect

began cutting the case for the button/switch controls. if there was no turning back before, there certainly isnt any now

proceeded slowly and cautiously, only one shot at all of this

tada

left a 3/16 lip along the top and bottom for the black acrylic to "overhang", forming a tray effect

after spending the morning measuring and marking the bonding points for the last two base rails, it was time to commit to them. I sanded the case where the base rails will sit, and sanded the rails themselves (two face up sides). I cleaned everything with iso 91% and let dry.

just a perspective shot of the full case and where the black acrylic faceplate will be set

everything prepped and ready for some JB Weld action - bright light!

set the goop laden base rails on their marks, and pressed out the excess. laid a ruler on them and a weight just for good measure

tomr I will recheck the measurements and then I can begin setting the upper standoff rail mounts thru the base mounts. Once thats done I can begin marking off where the back IO cuts will be

Thanks for watching

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