Scratch: [Completed] The Intelligence - Page 62 - Overclock.net

w6t9f · 08-17-08

nice

CattleRustler · 08-17-08

The Intelligence - Day 19

This pic is for WastedTime, I wanted to show him the painted latches from a week ago, compared to the painted handle brackets that were painted last night. Over time the gloss tends to "sit down" and lose a little of its luster.

well the day I wasnt looking forward to, the start of case sanding

...
ok ok

anyway, set up a little work area by the door, and cranked up the fan. I dont know if I ever mentioned it but this case (tempered alu) seems to be coated with something to protect the metal or something, because when you begin to sand any area of it, it makes a fine white powder (not friendly to 400 grit 3M WOD when sanding dry) I used a 240 orbital to get the wide open areas, then basically spent forever by hand with various grits getting into all the nooks, and dealing with the Evercoat filler areas.

Ok, so I spend all this time and effort sanding the the top half of the case in and out, when I am literally a minute away from being done, wham, I knock off the little alu bracket I made for the dvd drive

I should have reinforced it like I did the hdd and psu brackets but I only considered drive weight and chose not to. Need to fix that...

a couple shots of the case (top half) all sanded (back)

(front)

jbwelded the bracket on again and letting it sit over night like that

Before I start on the other half of the case I am going to make sure nothing needs reinforcement (bonded items) and I may prime this half to see if any of the areas that have Evercoat need any touch-ups both sanding-wise, and body filler-wise

I know it seems like a small update, but work-wise it wasnt
thanks for watching

* This Worklog post was generated using WorklogCreator - Version: 1.0.0.6
* Free Download: http://www.mod2software.com/worklogc...logcreator.zip

**repo_man** · 08-17-08

CR - In regards to the clear 'laying down' I've never had that problem. I think you doing the fast painting might be one reason for it. (IIRC you cleared a few mins after the color coat, no time for the color to dry yet) The color coat(s) really need to flash off (dry out) before you add a clear coat, in most cases. I think with you putting the clear on the semi-wet/uncured color coat it might 'dry into it' kinda.

Then again, it might just be the brand? I've never personally had clear dull out like that for me

The sanding looks well

I think the covering you are talking about is a clear coat, sometimes companies will clear metal parts to keep them from tarnishing.

I would also agree with the idea to prime this half first. Just in case you have any mishaps with the primer you might want to adjust before the other half of the case.

Looking good so far man!

CattleRustler · 08-17-08

well, the Krylon line of paints, primers and clears have the restriction of "do your next coat within an hour, or wait at least 24 hours" so the "speed painting method" isnt really something I invented, actually I learned it from the mod with all the bondo and the tin cans thru the lid

he painted like that, if you recall (iirc). I am fairly certain this technique can be used with any acrylic enamel regardless of brand.

As for the clear, yeah I am probably not explaining what I mean clearly. I mean to say that how it looks on the part a few minutes out of the can, versus how it looks the next day is a bit glossier when its still wet. I didnt mean to say it goes dull over time. my apologies.

thanks

**repo_man** · 08-17-08

Quote:

Originally Posted by CattleRustler

well, the Krylon line of paints, primers and clears have the restriction of "do your next coat within an hour, or wait at least 24 hours" so the "speed painting method" isnt really something I invented, actually I learned it from the mod with all the bondo and the tin cans thru the lid

he painted like that, if you recall (iirc). I am fairly certain this technique can be used with any acrylic enamel regardless of brand.

As for the clear, yeah I am probably not explaining what I mean clearly. I mean to say that how it looks on the part a few minutes out of the can, versus how it looks the next day is a bit glossier when its still wet. I didnt mean to say it goes dull over time. my apologies.

thanks

I remember you saying that now (about the wait an hour or 24 hours). Not that it really matters I suppose, but I would try letting it dry for an hour or so and then go with some clear. I've went against instructions before,lol. Sometimes the instructions are right, sometimes they're just time consuming

CattleRustler · 08-17-08

yeah, but do you remember the clear coat peeling incident on the cd rom drive during the Gumdrop build? Turns out thats exactly what caused it. I only waited like 16 hours or so - insta-peel! I am liking the speed painting results so far so I am gonna stick with that. Its nice tho since it leaves an option to stop and resume the next day if need be

SmasherBasher · 08-17-08

I ALWAYS let it dry overnight after about 2 coats of clear. Then I wetsand prior to adding more clear. But that's just me. You're doing a fantastic job man!

CattleRustler · 08-17-08

Quote:

Originally Posted by SmasherBasher

I ALWAYS let it dry overnight after about 2 coats of clear. Then I wetsand prior to adding more clear. But that's just me. You're doing a fantastic job man!

cheers mate, and thanks for the info

CattleRustler · 08-17-08

sorry for the double, but before I forget...

@Hutch
The JBWeld sands away but it requires a bit of effort. When I broke off the little L bracket I had to sand away that whole patch area of jbw, I had to really go at it with some 120 grit to get it flat and smooth. Had I used the orbital sander at that point I could have removed it fully but its ok. Hope that info helps.

wildfire99 · 08-17-08

awsome ive been waiting for this part, but arnt you going to do the button mods on the front before you paint?

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