[Project] Greenify your life - Page 3 - Overclock.net

Mustangman70 · 09-15-08

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ducky

They also have a 120mm green LED fan that I need, so I'll probably nab two, gonna hold off on the order till I know exactly how much and what I need from them, so I can make it all in one order

Thanks for the interest guys!

On another note, I finally got myself a new xbox 360. This is actually the fifth one. I initially bought a used console in april, which rashed 30 days later, I traded it in for another, and that crashed in about 2 weeks, traded it again, crashed in 10 days, traded it again, lasted 3 months and then crashed. So I gave EB Games hell and they gave me a brand spanking new 360 arcade and let me keep my HDD

It's a good day.

It will be a good day when you man up and get a PS3

lol

Awsome case plans, i bet it will be nice when your done. i like the idea of using bondo to clean up some gaps and edges

...Ive been thinking about selling my blue antec tri cools and getting green ones but im fine for now i suppose

legoman786 · 09-15-08

I'm gonna keep my eye on this...

sub'd

CattleRustler · 09-15-08

I like your plans, good luck with the mod - cool little case ya got there

oh, I read above that you wanted to paint plastic but are under the impression you need special paint for plastic? Well there are two types that go right to unprepped plastics: Krylon Fusion For Plastic, and the new Rustoleum Universal. But... you can paint plastics with any spray paint as long as its prepped (this includes laquers and the common Acrylic Enamels ("indoor outdoor/all purpose" paints)

here's a quick guide (not much different than painting metals really)

-Lightly sand the plastic parts with about 220 to rough up the surface (dont leave glossy shiny areas anywhere)
-finish it up with a light sanding of 400 grit
-blow it off with a can air or compressor gun, or boat motor, whatever

(tack cloth not necessary this step)
-some may differ but here I would take a paper towel and light amount of windex (its alcohol based but not as hars as IA91) and just do a lighly damp rub down (spray onto the pt, not the plastic parts and dont drench it, you just want two spritzes to lightly moisten the paper towel, thats all)
-let dry/evap 15 mins then blow down again however
-take the brand of primer/paint you are using and give the parts 4 light coats one minute apart (assuming youre using all purpose acrylic enamel)
-let dry 24-48 hours then do any light sanding for "fuzzies" with 400 grit (dry sanding) (some primers allow wet sanding but it needs to be specified on the can, and is a bit overkill usually to wet sand primed parts)
-after sanding blow off well, gently wipe with a tack cloth (a special cheese-cloth that has a tack layer of bees wax, dont press to hard or its wax on your primer, and more sanding)
-paint in light even coats according to instructions on cans. Usually 4 coats is enough but its subjective really. You can usually do all of your coats in one session since most acrylic enamels have the general rule of: recoat in less than one hour or after 24 hours. This is how I tend to paint, in speed coats of prime and paint.
-small parts can let dry under a box or an area thats not humid and free from dust, but I'd always at least use a clean box to cover the parts and let dry

Wet color sanding - your choice if it needs it or not (thats a whole other process/discipline in and of itself)

-clear coating: I have learned the hard way with this a few times now so I can give sound advice on this one... let your painted parts fully flash and set (curing takes a month) before you even glance at a can of clear coat. I'd say 48 hours or more before applying any clear to the painted parts. a few light even coats will usually do the trick. The smoother and free from crap the paint finish is the better the clear will look.

Remember, color and clear coats enhance imperfections, not hide them. The better your priming and sanding steps are the better your paint will look in the end.

good luck, and hopefully you havent painted before and I didint just type all this for nothing

(well maybe someone else will read this and find it helpful, if its the case)
cheers

**coffeejunky** · 09-15-08

Quote:

Originally Posted by CattleRustler

I like your plans, good luck with the mod - cool little case ya got there

oh, I read above that you wanted to paint plastic but are under the impression you need special paint for plastic? Well there are two types that go right to unprepped plastics: Krylon Fusion For Plastic, and the new Rustoleum Universal. But... you can paint plastics with any spray paint as long as its prepped (this includes laquers and the common Acrylic Enamels ("indoor outdoor/all purpose" paints)

here's a quick guide (not much different than painting metals really)

-Lightly sand the plastic parts with about 220 to rough up the surface (dont leave glossy shiny areas anywhere)
-finish it up with a light sanding of 400 grit
-blow it off with a can air or compressor gun, or boat motor, whatever

(tack cloth not necessary this step)
-some may differ but here I would take a paper towel and light amount of windex (its alcohol based but not as hars as IA91) and just do a lighly damp rub down (spray onto the pt, not the plastic parts and dont drench it, you just want two spritzes to lightly moisten the paper towel, thats all)
-let dry/evap 15 mins then blow down again however
-take the brand of primer/paint you are using and give the parts 4 light coats one minute apart (assuming youre using all purpose acrylic enamel)
-let dry 24-48 hours then do any light sanding for "fuzzies" with 400 grit (dry sanding) (some primers allow wet sanding but it needs to be specified on the can, and is a bit overkill usually to wet sand primed parts)
-after sanding blow off well, gently wipe with a tack cloth (a special cheese-cloth that has a tack layer of bees wax, dont press to hard or its wax on your primer, and more sanding)
-paint in light even coats according to instructions on cans. Usually 4 coats is enough but its subjective really. You can usually do all of your coats in one session since most acrylic enamels have the general rule of: recoat in less than one hour or after 24 hours. This is how I tend to paint, in speed coats of prime and paint.
-small parts can let dry under a box or an area thats not humid and free from dust, but I'd always at least use a clean box to cover the parts and let dry

Wet color sanding - your choice if it needs it or not (thats a whole other process/discipline in and of itself)

-clear coating: I have learned the hard way with this a few times now so I can give sound advice on this one... let your painted parts fully flash and set (curing takes a month) before you even glance at a can of clear coat. I'd say 48 hours or more before applying any clear to the painted parts. a few light even coats will usually do the trick. The smoother and free from crap the paint finish is the better the clear will look.

Remember, color and clear coats enhance imperfections, not hide them. The better your priming and sanding steps are the better your paint will look in the end.

good luck, and hopefully you havent painted before and I didint just type all this for nothing

(well maybe someone else will read this and find it helpful, if its the case)
cheers

Very useful information. I have it bookmarked

OP: Looks like a nice project case - Subscribed

levdir · 09-15-08

Quote:

Originally Posted by CattleRustler

(well maybe someone else will read this and find it helpful, if its the case)
cheers

I sure did

Phantom922 · 09-15-08

Subbed, I want to see the finished product.

Ducky · 09-15-08

Thanks cattle, didn't know that I could paint with regular spraypaint. That definitely saves me a huge hassle of searching for a color I will never find. I have painted before but always wood or metal, so I appreciate the detail very much

Again, thanks everyone for the interest

Its Nearly 1 am and I just woke up from a nice long sleep.. I'm terribly off schedule.

CattleRustler · 09-16-08

prracer6 · 09-16-08

Interesting. lets see how it turns out. scrib

Ducky · 09-16-08

Hmm, not sure if I want to actually change the outside to black and a neutral color, then leave the colors up to the LEDs, that way I can change the colors at will in the future. Maybe change the stripes and faceplate that you currently see as green now to a silver or something.. Just thinking that the bright green on the outside may be a tad overwhelming, and I have a bucketload of blue LED fans.. Would hate to see them go to waste.

Any ideas or input on that?

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[Project] Greenify your life

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