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Overclock.net - Overclocking.net > Case Mods & Cases > Case Mod Work Logs | |
[Complete] Amida
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#11 (permalink) | |||||||||||||
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4.0 GHz
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it shouldnt fall. how thick of acrylic are you planning to use?
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Nikon D5000 (Nikkor AF-S DX 18-55mm f/3.5 - 5.6G VR | Nikkor AF 50mm f/1.8D) - LowePro SlingShot 100
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#12 (permalink) | |||||||||||||
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4.0ghz
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Temecula, California
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Here is my simple solution to prevent almost all risk of tipping.. The piece in purple will only be welded to the radiator part. It will be exactly the same height as the legs, allowing it to slide under the psu/hd area and fit snuggly between there and the ground. ![]()
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#13 (permalink) | |||||||||||||
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↓ dn ʎɐʍ sıɥʇ ↓
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Is there no way you could make the base out of one piece of acrylic
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#14 (permalink) | |||||||||||||
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Damage, Inc.
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Looks Solid!
You are concerned about mounting the rad housing to the main-frame of the case? If those to surfaces that meet are solid panels (wall-to-wall) then a laminate bond will be more than strong enough; you will not need the bracket on the bottom. Consider the radiator housing: How will you access the radiator for servicing and replacing? Sorry, not offense, but I did not see a "door" (I missed it?) Perhaps you could have a "lift-out design" with vertical guide-rails (padded)? That would mean that the tubing would have to enter and egress on the top-side/back.... ...I'm just rambling. Cool design!
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WIP: Scarab Custom Cases: Silentium, Halcyon, Indigo, Gemini, Prometheus, Anvil Case Mods: Liquid Chameleon, VF1000 LAN box Semper Fidelis
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#15 (permalink) | |||||||||||||
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WaterCooler
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Nice design...
To help prevent the possibility of the rad toppling you could put a cubed joint along the top base next to where the motherboard would be and the Rad housing?
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#16 (permalink) | ||||||||||||||
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4.0ghz
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Temecula, California
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Rep: 258
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Quote:
Yeah I didn't post any pictures of how the fans, fan controllers, and radiator get into there... but here ya go (lol almost exactly what you described ) ![]() ![]() Quote:
![]() Yeah that would work. I think I am going to do what Sy said and just attach the two, the main reason I wasn't planning on doing that was because I didn't think it would be strong enough, but if he thinks it would be then there is a good chance he is right.
Last edited by xlastshotx : 11-10-08 at 09:50 PM |
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#17 (permalink) | ||||||||||||
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4.0ghz
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Temecula, California
Posts: 3,077
Rep: 258
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Trader Rating: 29
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I have decided to wait for all my parts to arrive before I start cutting the acrylic, like if I get the radiator and fans first then I can cut the radiator box... I think it would be best if I had the parts just to make sure that they fit correctly (I don't want to waster acrylic).. I would say that 90% of my parts should arrive this week.
In the mean time, anyone have any useful tips/tricks for dropping temps more with watercooling?
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#18 (permalink) | ||||||||||||
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Folding Fanatic
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This is going to look sweet. When it's done I must come see it first hand.
On another note: Did you ever procure your acrylic welding agent?
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#19 (permalink) | |||||||||||||
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4.0ghz
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Temecula, California
Posts: 3,077
Rep: 258
![]() ![]() ![]() Unique Rep: 208
Trader Rating: 29
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Quote:
. HahaI am 50% sure that I might get it... I am currently waiting for a "Shipped" email.. It was pretty expensive $16 plus shipping for a Pint of "Solvent Cement (Not IPS Weld-On®)" from USPlastic... I really hope they ship it.
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#20 (permalink) | ||||||||||||
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New to Overclock.net
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looks awesome
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