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Overclock.net - Overclocking.net > Case Mods & Cases > Case Mod Work Logs | |
[Complete] Amida
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#31 (permalink) | ||||||||||||
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4.0ghz
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Here we go, version 2 (updated on the second post as well). Added the HD 4870, Removed one fan controller, added a way to drain the radiator, and changed the location of the fan controller.
![]() ![]() Man I wish the rest of the acrylic and acrylic cement would get here already so I can cut and assemble this.
Last edited by xlastshotx : 11-13-08 at 05:27 AM |
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#32 (permalink) | |||||||||||||
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Damage, Inc.
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Looks "divine".
![]() Sorry if I missed this part (again): How many blocks will be run on this loop? I ask as the pump is on the opposite side of the design from the radiator. Generally the pump feeds the radiator, and having opposed mounting means the loop is"running" further than it needs to. This also adds the the general confusion of tubing that can make accessibility to components a little tedious at times because the tubing needs to run "back and forth" across, and over the top of the design. ....no offense, just tossing in my , and hoping I did not miss something that answers my own question.
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#33 (permalink) | |||||||||||||
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4.0ghz
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Quote:
![]() Although I am unsure of the direction, because I do not know which way the water comes out with that top/pump.. The side? If it is the side then it would go: Pump>Rad>CPU>NB>GPU> I added it up and it should be just about 3ft worth of tubing, do you think I should consider redesigning it to allow the pump to go on the opposite side? It can be done, and this is the best time to do it (before anything is cut), and actually it would be quite a bit of a shorter loop (probably lose at least 4-10 inches of tubing)... I don't think any of the questions you asked have been asked before, and hey they more questions the better! I would much rather fix problem or improve things in the design stage, then think of it after its built. Anything you can think of that I can do that would allow my system to perform better! ![]() So what do you think?
Last edited by xlastshotx : 11-13-08 at 09:41 AM |
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#34 (permalink) | |||||||||||||
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Damage, Inc.
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Ah.. I see.
Okay, that makes good sense. ![]() And, the outlet on the pump should be on the top, intake on the side. <edit> have you considered hitting the CPU first in the loop?
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WIP: Scarab Custom Cases: Silentium, Halcyon, Indigo, Gemini, Prometheus, Anvil Case Mods: Liquid Chameleon, VF1000 LAN box Semper Fidelis
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#35 (permalink) | |||||||||||||
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↓ dn ʎɐʍ sıɥʇ ↓
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I am a complete nub when it comes to watercooling, but isn't it better to have the 'fresh' cooler water from the rad go straight from the pump to the CPU - then NB - then GPU. In order to benefit CPU temps?
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#36 (permalink) | |||||||||||||
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4.0ghz
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Quote:
but if it comes out the top then it would go GPU>NB>CPU>RAD>Pump And everything would be going in the wrong direction! that is a little problem.. That is correct (see above), although I have read some things saying it doesn't matter since the water is going threw everything all the time (or something like that), but I still like it like you said.
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#37 (permalink) | ||||||||||||||
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Damage, Inc.
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<edit> If I may: moving the pump over to the rad side will solve most of the design issues you are experiencing.... but does this effect another aspect that I may be missing? <edit #2> ... also, you may want to have the tubing for rad to enter and egress from the top-side of the enclosure... consider sliding the rad down into the case with the tubing at the bottom...
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Last edited by Syrillian : 11-13-08 at 09:52 AM |
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#38 (permalink) | |||||||||||||
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4.0ghz
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Quote:
Moving it over wouldn't really affect to much, but I would have to swap all of the lower level parts side (psu is in the way). edit* Ah moving the PSU also causes the wires that would previously been hidden between the Radbox and the lower front piece to be exposed on one side.. (I guess I would have to add a piece) Edit2 Reply? *Well originally I was going to put it at the top, but it would defiantly lengthen my loop and also force the water to travel higher.. So I just have it set up so that the radiator would have to be inserted into the box before the tubing, and I have left enough room at the bottom the easily connect the tubing.. The bottom is opened up to allow for tubing and also to make draining it easier. ![]() The piece in red would drop in after the radiator is inserted into the box, to seal the lower area. ![]() The downside would be that I would have to drain the loop to remove the rad, but I don't think I will be removing the rad to often (and distilled water is cheap )
Last edited by xlastshotx : 11-13-08 at 10:04 AM |
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#39 (permalink) | |||||||||||||
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Damage, Inc.
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Do you feel that having the barbs at the bottom of the radiator will adversely effect the efficiency of bleeding the loop? Sorry I am asking so many questions... if I am irritating you just let me know and I will stuff a sock in the ol' pie-hole.
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WIP: Scarab Custom Cases: Silentium, Halcyon, Indigo, Gemini, Prometheus, Anvil Case Mods: Liquid Chameleon, VF1000 LAN box Semper Fidelis
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#40 (permalink) | |||||||||||||
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4.0ghz
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Join Date: Sep 2007
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Quote:
No problem, I like the questions, I wish everyone asked a ton of good questions, it really makes me think about every aspect of the design. You already caught one problem, so ask away!
Last edited by xlastshotx : 11-13-08 at 10:22 AM |
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