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Overclock.net - Overclocking.net > Case Mods & Cases > Case Mod Work Logs | |
Case Mod: Silverstone TJ07, X58 Classified, Dominator GT, i7 920 D0 (3849B041)
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#21 (permalink) | |||||||||||||
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WaterCooler
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I bought the Noctua fans because they have high pressure and are silent. I don't think cooling will be a big issue with that much Rad & Pump and so little in the loop. I didn't do a lot of research into the fans, never heard of Slipstreams before.
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#22 (permalink) | |||||||||||||
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*cough* Stock *cough*
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Actually, no. Noctuas are only good for radiators/heatsinks with widely-spaced fins because they have very poor static pressure; they're silent because they don't move a lot of air. The Slipstreams I refer to are Scythe fans, made with 80mm motors and shoddy sleeve bearings; they're notorious for dying several months after use on a restrictive surface, and when they DO work, they're choked so badly that instead of 110CFM on the super-high speed model, it gets about 80-85. The best 25mm fans for radiators are S-Flex Gs, and the best 38mm fan is the San Ace H1011 (H101 if you don't care about closed corners).
__________________
Official Cooler Master ATCS 840 Owners Club
Air cooling tips: Buy Yates from Petras or Aquatuning | Quick HS guide | TIM guide | Stop recommending Slipstreams | Don't use Noctuas on HS/rads | 9G1212H1011 review | More later...
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#23 (permalink) | ||||||||||||
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WaterCooler
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Oh hello again, it is me, and I bring good news!
__________________I spent $4 on a tube of Permatex High Temperature Thread Sealant and used it on both my Radiator Barbs, I let it cure for 24 hours, and then I used 2 tubes of Superglue on the outside crease of the Barb. I can safely say the Radiator seems fixed. I have gone 60 minutes with no leaks, despite my banging, stretching, bending, and general abuse of the entire system. There was a small leak off the Reservoir, but that was due to a screw not being tight enough. I tightened it 1/4 more turns and the leak is gone! I also just threw a pile of UV lights into the case and put on the Window Panel and took 2 pics, just to get a rough idea of what we will be dealing with in 24 hours once the full leak test is finished. They do look really orange, however, it is that really nice orange everyone likes looking at haha. The mobo and other parts glow the same orange, so it actually worked out pretty good. ![]()
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#24 (permalink) | |||||||||||||
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WaterCooler
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#25 (permalink) | |||||||||||||
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Intel Overclocker
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I recommend putting the pump before the radiator so it doesn't add heat to the water right before going into the CPU block. Otherwise looks great, sub'd.
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#26 (permalink) | |||||||||||||
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WaterCooler
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My loop was ordered based on the little room I had to work with, and the only way to go Res -> Pump -> Rad was if I ran a lot of tubing all over the place, which I did not want to do!
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#27 (permalink) | ||||||||||||||
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Intel Overclocker
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Also lolz at the pics of running to the restrooms.
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#28 (permalink) | |||||||||||||
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PC Gamer
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+rep not only for the great build but for all the budget factors!!! true enthusiast/cheapskate
__________________
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#29 (permalink) | |||||||||||||||
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WaterCooler
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I also added about 30 more pics or so to the first page.
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#30 (permalink) | ||||||||||||
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Overclocker
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The cardboard and your wiring job scare me. Dry cardboard + hot wire can = fire!
Looks good through the window though.
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