HAFenvy

FYI: Mixing metals in a coolant loop is a bad thing to do due to their electrode potential and galvanic corrosion that occurs because of it. This is why you see water blocks made of copper and radiators made with brass/copper because those materials are very close together for electrode potential. Even nickel is closer to copper/brass than other metals. So, by mixing steel in with copper/brass, you are setting up the potential for corrosion. If you can replace that metal plug (if it is steel - I assume because it looks rusted) with proper plugs that are brass/nickel plated brass, you'll be much better off.

Quoted from a wikipedia topic on this: "Copper should not be in direct mechanical contact with metals of different electropotential (for example, a copper pipe joined to an iron pipe), especially in the presence of moisture, as the completion of an electrical circuit (for instance through the common ground) will cause the juncture to act as an electrochemical cell (like a single cell of a battery). The weak electrical currents themselves are harmless but the electrochemical reaction will cause the conversion of the iron to other compounds, eventually destroying the functionality of the union."

If those are steel plugs, definitely replace them with proper ones

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Marauder_IIc

While you are correct, it is mainly due to corrosion, and I am running (will be) an additive from Feser to aid in corrosion. Also, no hose bard I have seen is brass/copper. The rads themselfs actually came with these richety THIN plastic ones, now they wont corrode, but I have a bad feeling the will leak.
You got a good recommendation (link) for a low profile allen plug?

__________________
After years of doing technical support of one level or another, I have come to realize one inarguable truth.
You can lead a horse to water, but it is not your fault if he sticks his face in it and DROWNS.

Current build log: http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-wo...ml#post7185561

HAFenvy

Not sure about Allen head ones... you can get slotted head low profile plugs from Bitspower... here is a link to Perf. PCs with them:
Bitspower G1/4" Low-Profile Stop Fitting with O-ring (Set of Two) and these are brass fittings (all the Bitspower stuff is brass with nickel plating).

I'd have to look for allen key versions but I'm sure there are some out there as long as you get the right G1/4" thread.

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HAFenvy

Found what you wanted... Danger Den plugs
http://www.petrastechshop.com/dadeng1thpl.html

*EDIT*: PS... those plastic plugs are just to protect and keep stuff out of the threads/rad during shipping - they are not for plugging like the ones above.

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cluffenstein

What paint did you use? Spray or auto? I had a friend of mine spray with Automotive blue metallic flake paint, and it looks awesome even without a clear coat (Had I left it in the shop another day it would have gotten a coat of clear)... too bad the paint bubbled really bad on one side (I screwed up the prep), and it scratched really easy because of lacking a clear coat.

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MIGhunter

I've never done WCing but I'm thinking about it. What is the point of the 2 rads together like that? I've seen 2 rad systems before but they are always separated in the loop.

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Marauder_IIc

Excellent, I will look into those! I have done mixed metal before, and while it **CAN** be damgerous, a majority of the time, it is not. It is mroe about propper additives than anything else. Look at an engine, Iron heads, copper cores on the rad, good aluminum water pump and stainless valves, plus the small block plugs and freeze plugs are typically brass. So there is alot of variance, and cars with 200K miles can be rust free. Good maintanance and good additives make all the difference
Now, I do agree, keep metal types down as much as possible, no reason to tempt chance.
Kind figured on the plastic

For the black, I used a brand of high temp gloss engine block paint I got at Pep Boys, infact the label is in one of the links at the very beginning of my post.
The Blue was model masters lacquer, I wasn't attached to any specific brand, this pick was literally, just cause it was the color I wanted. Most model paints are pretty good.
In my experience of YEARS of model building, enamul based paints are WAY easier to paint with than lacquer, lacquer is NOT forgiving to flaws in the prep or variances in heat/humidity. Also, for lacquer (enamul too, but moreso with lacquer) make sure you FINE sand the primer and wipe it down VERY thoroughly. It can cause other problems later, like a glass like paint job lifting off of the primer in one smoothe sheet.... unfortunately, I spek frm experience there.

Stackable rads does a couple things, one it is far more cost effective that one of those THICK high dollar Fesers. More capacity for cooling, without the price tag of some of the others.
Also, I have had very good luck across the board in the past with Swiftech products, and I have seen alot of conflicting reports on actual functionality, and I wanted to give it a honest to god shot to see how much it could really drop temps, or at least stabalize them in a warm enviornment like here, where we are prone to AC dropping.

Worst comes to worst, I mount them backwards of each other, so I have nozzels on both sides and just split the water blocks that way, like I would with any other dual rad setup. The dual stacks like this, and they were purposefully made for stacking is to do a simular job to say a Monsta or something of that nature, just in a different configuration.

I am currently on air for my CPU's, but I hope to go water down the road a bit. When I do, I got the loop for it, also hoping for a second video card this year as well.

__________________
After years of doing technical support of one level or another, I have come to realize one inarguable truth.
You can lead a horse to water, but it is not your fault if he sticks his face in it and DROWNS.

Current build log: http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-wo...ml#post7185561

Marcam923

Holy crap buddy, looking great!

I love the Black and Blue color scheme!

Marauder_IIc

Got my memory in FINALLY. According to Fedex it was doing doughnuts around an airport in Chicago for about a week :/ But its HERE!!!
Tonight I have a 8 hour gap between shifts, so I gotta leave soon, goto work, come back goto bed go right back to work
Hoping this weekend I can find the time for a bench setup, do memtest and Intelburn, once both pass 24 hour tests, then I will start the assembly.

More to come soon

__________________
After years of doing technical support of one level or another, I have come to realize one inarguable truth.
You can lead a horse to water, but it is not your fault if he sticks his face in it and DROWNS.

Current build log: http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-wo...ml#post7185561

Paraleyes

Razor blade FTW!

Oh and post some pictures of the paint you used too. Looks sweet!

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