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Overclock.net - Overclocking.net > Case Mods & Cases > Case Mods - General Discussion | |
Guide: Custom Fiberglass Work
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#1 (permalink) | |||||||||||||
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IDDQD
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This got canned as far as an FAQ, but I'm hoping it can help someone to work with fiberglass. My specific application wasn't for computers, but it's the exact same process. If someone wants to post some pics of their PC fiberglass projects, we could probably get a pretty extensive guide going. Anyway, here it is....
I'm sure many of you have looked around this site and the internet in general, and saw case mods that defy all convention. The structure and form of a common computer case merged seemlessly with wildy curvacious and stylish elements. But how is it that these case-modding madmen combine form and function? It's quite simple: fiberglass. Fiberglass, through no surprise, is composed of tiny glass fibers. On their own, they don't posess much in the realm of structural rigidity, but when used as a reinforcing agent in a plastic resin, the results are remarkable. For the purpose of this FAQ I'm going to cover the use of fibergloss cloth (as opposed to mat) because it's much more pliable and easier to work with for small projects like those found in PC modding. I'll highlight the basic steps involved in creating a fiberglass part from scratch. My particular application wasn't PC oriented, but the exact same steps apply. Materials: - Old clothes (I'm sure there's already enough unwanted goop on your pants) - Rubber gloves - Disposable brushes - Epoxy Resin - Fiberglass cloth (thickness and amount vary by application) - Base fabric (read details below) - Sandpaper/Dremel/Files/Elbow Grease - Bondo or other filler - Appropriate breathing/safety equipment NOTE: Fiberglass fumes and dust are hazardous to your health. Be sure to abide by all appropriate safety procedures when working with such dangerous materials. I will not be responsible for any danger, harm, damage, or otherwise undesirable byproduct of this FAQ. Use it at your own risk. Quick Tips before you start: - Resin cures VERY quickly. Work in small batches and work as fast as you can. - If you don't want it ruined, keep it away from the work area. Fiberglass is messy stuff. - When laying the 'glass, do everything as neatly as possibly. Sanding is a nightmare. Do it right to begin with. - Use as little Bondo as possible to keep weight to a minimum. FINALLY onto the tutorial... 1) The Idea I had recently purchased a plate amplifier (Adire AVA-250) for my computer subwoofer and I wanted to be able to control the volume from my desktop. I decided to build a small, but attractive amp rack. Fiberglass seemed like the best choice so I began to design. I'm not sure about you guys, but I like to work with a plan. I always do 3D renderings in AutoCAD of any project I'm about to undertake. I like to have an exact idea of what I'm doing before I start. For this project I put together some design ideas and ended up with this. 2) The Framework The problem with fiberglass is that until it hardens, it's basically fabric. It has no structural integrity and it's not really a concern until you try and make a shape with it. When fiberglassing, you'll almost always need a mold or frame of some sort. I needed to be able to mount the amp to something so I decided to use a wooden frame as my starting point. After you have a suitable frame, you need to cover it with your base fabric. Be sure to stretch and staple/glue your base fabric sturdily in place. I used an old T-shirt because this is a simple shape. Spandex or speaker-grill cloth works best for complex shapes that require alot of stretching and finesse. I can not stress enough to STRETCH THE BASE FABRIC PROPERLY AND AVOID WRINKLES AT THIS BASE STEP. Your arms will thank you when you only have to sand the tiny little surface imperfections rather than the giant hardened wrinkles. 3) The Mess With your fabric firmly stretched over the framework, prepare a small batch of resin according to the insructions on the can/jug. This first layer is simply meant to harden the base fabric layer and to give a solid foundation for the fiberglass. After the first layer is dry, prepare some more resin and start laying cloth. I like to cut the 'glass into moderate sized pieces and mix up the orientation of the strands for increased strength. As for actual technique, I lay down a thin coat of resin and stick on the resin piece, then dab resin into the cloth. When the cloth is well soaked, push or roll out any air bubbles as they're detrimental to the quality of the final product. Work as quickly as you can while still being as neat as possible. As I said work in small batches until you become comfortable with the techniques and the timing involved. For small parts like a PC, 3 or 4 layers is on the overkill side of things. I used 3 for this and it's plenty strong. 4) The Finishing If you decided to take your time and neatly lay your 'glass, you're going to love yourself (see goopy pants reference). Sanding and finishing should require minimal work. Take care of any imperfections by either straight sanding the fiberglass, or using Bondo and sanding that. In any case, your desired finish is going to be proportional to the amount of work you put into it. I'm somewhat lazy, so I opted for the easy way out. I chose a textured spray paint finish so I would eliminate the mirror-like surface perfection of a true painted finish. It all boils down to user preference. 5) The Final Product When all is said and done, you'll be a bit lighter in the pocket, a little tuckered out, and messy as ever, but you'll have a truly custom piece that you can hopefully show off and be proud of. This is just a start to the guide. I'll give a bit more explanation to each section as I see fit and as members request. Have fun with your own projects and be sure to post results for all to see.
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#2 (permalink) | |||||||||
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Overclocker
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WOW great almost faq. Nice pics. I like it. I can't believe they didn't accept it as a faq. Good job. rep for you!
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New to Overclock.net
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Wow great guide! (btw what kinda amp is that + link? )
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#4 (permalink) | |||||||||||||
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IDDQD
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It's the Adire AVA250. It's discontinued since it's like 3 years old, but here is the exact same thing without the name:
PartsExpress 250W Plate Amp (450W max) It's a very decent amp for the price. When paired with an Adire/Dayton 12 or 15" sub, it makes for a very respectable home theater sub.
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#5 (permalink) | |||||||||||||
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4.0 GHz
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very nice dude
+rep
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