sledgehammer1990

I received my switch today but I don't know how to wire it. I tried one setting but I can turn it on, then it shuts off a few seconds later.

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DuckieHo

Because it's a momentary switch.... There should be just two connections. It doesn't matter which one use use.

Is this a LED one? LED ones have an additional two connections. They have a positive and negative for the LED but are independent of the primary circuit.

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RonindeBeatrice

Duckie his switch looks like it has 100 connectors (give or take).

As Duckie mentioned though, this is a momentary switch, so if you're looking to have it power something like LED's or Cathode tubes you're out of luck. It will work as a replacement to a powerswitch though.

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sledgehammer1990

It for a power switch. I have the one in my image. Two pins for LED and 4 for other. There is a +/- and 1,2,3,4.

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DuckieHo

Sorry... the picture didn't load before.

What kind of Vandal Switch is it exactly? Single throw, Double pole? Double throw, double pole? I see a mystery 12V marking on the switch as well. A LED power switch should not need anything 12V.

A direct link would help.

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To answer most of your questions: (1) a fridge cannot cool a PC (2) 64-bit OS for over 3.4GB (3) If a PCIe card fits, it will work (4) Resolution, not screen size (5) If you have a question, it is not news (6) Report, not respond to Spam (7) Single/Non-Modular Rail PSUs are NOT better than Multi-Rail/Modular

RonindeBeatrice

http://jab-tech.com/Vandal-Resistant...g-pr-3899.html

Of the same type at least.

Performance-pcs has the same type of switches. Here you can make out a couple markings.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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sledgehammer1990

That is it, But I have the blue one.

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RonindeBeatrice

What marks are there around the perimeter? It seems that these switches are paired with the contact directly across from each other, so if you can find the marking for one, it's partner will possibly be directly across from it.

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sledgehammer1990

it goes from left to right, top to bottom - 1, 3, +, -, 4, 2.

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DuckieHo

The positive and negative are almost definitely just for the LED.

Do you have a multimeter?

If not, just test the connections when you push the button.

Connect 1 and 2 to PWR_ON and press the button.
Connect 1 and 3 to PWR_ON and press the button.
Connect 1 and 4 to PWR_ON and press the button.
Connect 2 and 3 to PWR_ON and press the button.
Connect 2 and 4 to PWR_ON and press the button.

That should be all you need to test.

Performance-PCs sell ones with only two pins for the actual switch.

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WANTED: Socket M Core/Core 2 CPU, SUGO-02 Black, quality 802.11b/g PCI Card
To answer most of your questions: (1) a fridge cannot cool a PC (2) 64-bit OS for over 3.4GB (3) If a PCIe card fits, it will work (4) Resolution, not screen size (5) If you have a question, it is not news (6) Report, not respond to Spam (7) Single/Non-Modular Rail PSUs are NOT better than Multi-Rail/Modular