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Old 07-17-08   #21 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by lsdmeasap View Post
Anyone have a link/place in the US I could order one at?

Thanks
Any of the "big box" hardware stores should have them. The one's pictured I bought over the counter at Lowe's.

I'm partial to the DeWalt brand bits if I can find them. They're high quality and have a really nice tool-less quick-swap arbor system. I buy those at Ace Hardware, but stock and sizes will probably vary quite a bit there from store to store.

Online, there's always McMaster-Carr. (make sure you go with the Bi-Metal bits. From the looks of their illustrations, I like the tooth pattern on the "heavy duty" ones, but they're priced pretty high.)
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Last edited by Warfarin88 : 07-17-08 at 04:31 AM Reason: update
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Old 07-17-08   #22 (permalink)
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Ya, I looked there a few days ago.


Seems I will just have to shell out 30+ or continue doing them with my dremmel I suppose
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Old 07-17-08   #23 (permalink)
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Shucks. I've been at work for the past 48 hours. I missed this duffsr. Sorry. For what its worth, you don't need particle board. Any material that will help hold your bit steady will work, so long as its big enough to support the hole, and a couple three clamps to hold it down.

As far as where to find scrap wood cheap, not so sure. Maybe the bargain bin at a hardware store? Garage Sale? you could buy crappy even broken furniture on the -dirt- cheap. Much of that is made with explodaboard (that's what my wife calls particle board) anyway.
No worries! I actually found some scrap MDF lying around the office. Good to practice with before I started hacking the case.

Which came out even better than expected, largely thanks to this guide.

BTW, my 4.5" hole saw came from lowe's, lennox brand and about $35. Well worth it IMO though, does metal, plastic, and wood all fantastically.

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Old 05-27-09   #24 (permalink)
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thank you so much for this guide dude now i can begin my case modding project
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Old 07-08-09   #25 (permalink)
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Snip

Excellent advice CattleRustler. The only experience I have with cutting oil so far is with tapping threads. I will vouch its a godsend there. I'll be sure to document its use on my next hole saw endeavor; and update the guide accordingly.

Thanks for the contribution!
+rep to CR for contribution

Gentle reminder to update the main post with the fluid idea.

This is a Great Guide! Love the pictures and the good ideas on pilot hole sizing and flipping of material. I too discovered that by mistake. +rep!

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Old 07-09-09   #26 (permalink)
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Gentle reminder to update the main post with the fluid idea.
Thank you sir. I was remiss.

Handled.
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Old 07-10-09   #27 (permalink)
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Great guide! I need to pick up a 4.5" hole saw now. My last attempt at making a fan hole did not work out so well. The work's not diffucult, but the how-to and the pictures make it very nice indeed +rep
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Old 09-28-09   #28 (permalink)
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Awesome guide, Warfarin88!

Quote:
By cutting from both sides, you end up with a much cleaner overall cut.
In your guide, you're cutting thick metal. I'm planning on cutting three 120mm holes in my top panel for a 3x120 radiator. My case is a Lian-Li, and the aluminum is very thin, so I don't think I'll need to drill from both directions. Am I correct? I would assume that I would just want to drill from the outside in so as to have any burs on the inside of the case. Is that sound reasoning?

I'm sorry if my question seems obvious, but I've never worked with metal before.

Thanks!
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Old 09-29-09   #29 (permalink)
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I would assume that I would just want to drill from the outside in so as to have any burs on the inside of the case.
You pretty much nailed it right there Outlaw.

Honestly though, a half round file will make short work of any burrs you do have; especially if you're working on a Lian Li. They use an alloy that's really nice to cut on, in my experience.
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Old 09-29-09   #30 (permalink)
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Honestly though, a half round double-cut file will make short work of any burrs you do have
fixed!
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