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Old 05-03-08   #1 (permalink)
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Default C-Channel: turning tight radius help

I have a few cuts I made in the mobo pan for wire hiding. I am using the c-channel stuff from mnpctech.com which is fine for wider radius applications but the problem I am having is getting it to behave and stay in place inside curves that are tight. In these situations should glue be used, and if so, what type/brand? Or should I make "snips" in the sections that traverse the curves? (I dont think that will look too slick tho).

anyway, if you can share some c-channel secrets I would be appreciative
thanks
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Old 05-03-08   #2 (permalink)
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Hi.

A small bead of epoxy glue on the inside wall will do the trick.

If can be problematic getting the adhesive into the channel, depending upon how wide the opening is.

I have used a syringe to inject the adhesive into the groove, but the adhesive needs to be relatively thin.

E6000 is a sturdy adhesive that is flexible and works on a myriad of surfaces.

"snips" would work for an "inside corner", but a "wedge" would be needed for an "outside corner" as the material will overlap of some if the surface area is not removed.
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Last edited by Syrillian : 05-03-08 at 11:25 AM. Reason: had the "inside" and "outside" reversed.
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Old 05-03-08   #3 (permalink)
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Also, if the holes are small enough, grommets can work better than molding.
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Old 05-03-08   #4 (permalink)
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thanks for the info guys.

these are the cuts below. the circular one for the atx12v-4p is fine, its the smaller ones (2 at bottom) for the sata and the case wires that are the problem.



out of curiousity, would regular crazy glue work?
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Old 05-03-08   #5 (permalink)
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Nice-looking cuts.

As dralb stated, a grommet would work for the single round hole.

For the longer holes, perhaps you could combine grommets and u-channel?

Cut the grommet in half (bisecting) and use one half on each end, then use the u-channel on the straight portions.

Getting the pieces to seam well might be an issue, especially if the profile of the two pieces are not similar...


You could also try heating and forming the u-channel so that it will fit the ID of those cuts. Warm or hot water is recommended, but I'm kinda like a pyro so I like to use a lighter.

...there is a fine line between heating and melting... Heh! I found out the hard (read: funny) way.
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Old 05-03-08   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CattleRustler View Post

out of curiousity, would regular crazy glue work?
Go Crazy and find out!
Seriously, I like to use a very thin bead of clear Gorilla glue (follow normal instructions and don't use too much), then put the c-channel on and shove a couple of fat sharpies or Hi-Lighter pens in to make sure the curves stay in place while they "set-up" (dowels could be used -if you wanted to get all fancy)
I like the Hi-lighter pen cuz it has a varying circumference which is good for shoving in small circular holes.

For the "slits" see if you can find some of those newfangled "composite" wine corks, they compress "just enough" to put them in the center of the slot, then slide them to the ends to secure the c-channel.
If you look around, you should be able to find some with the correct diameter.

Or, be really smart, and get the wine corks first, then just cut the slits to fit them!
(Trial and error, getting composite corks)
(Aussie shiraz is good for fatter composite corks, as are S.A. reds; while N.Z. SauvBlancs (Monkey Bay) and some German Gewurtztraminer. are good for skinnier corks)
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Old 05-03-08   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Nice-looking cuts.
thanks Syrillian - its my first mod btw And thanks for all your advice, very good points I will keep note of. And thanks SpcCdr, good ideas too! I am making mental notes. Cool.

I am actually widening the 2 bottom cuts, since on the test fit last night (without c-channel) I wasnt happy with the size of the openings. I will grab some crazy glue from across the street (I actually have a decent hardware store literally across the street, open 7 days ) Hopefully the combo of the wider cuts and crazy glue will do the trick. The c-channel wont have to 180 on itself so close to itself, so I think it will help. The cuts will now look like the upper atx24 opening when they are done.

I'll let you know how I make out
thanks
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Old 05-04-08   #8 (permalink)
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You could also use wire-loom for this. A little more forgiving & will function/look very nice.
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Old 05-04-08   #9 (permalink)
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Super-glue.

No cure time (relatively) as compared to gorilla glue or epoxy. Trust me. I used the same thing on my cable holes roughly the same size. Get $1 tube of superglue from a store and put a dab in a/b the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock position and just hold it until it sticks. Super easy
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Old 05-04-08   #10 (permalink)
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thanks, noted.

I tried crazy glue yesterday but after getting the first ring 90% done, I accidentally glued the c-channel to itself (closed the channel) lol, so I pulled it all off. It was hard to work with anyway, so I scrapped that plan, and went to plan 2 - the notched method.

The notched method was much much easier to work with, but I still needed to use electrical tape on the back-side of the pan to hold them suckers just right. I have a worklog to post in a little while

moral of the story: The c-channel that mnpctech.com sells is very good, just dont plan on using it easily for anything smaller than a small hole-saw openings. Tight radius' will be a nightmare.
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