CattleRustler

I cut this yesterday on a scroll saw, using a spiral blade. The spiral blade allows you to push/pull/slide the material in/from any direction at the blade allowing inticate cuts, but as you can see it can also cause wavy or haggard edges in the process (plus this was my first time using a scroll saw so I am not that good) I am looking for tips or ideas to smooth the edges out a bit. I used various dremel grinding stones (blue and orange) and while they did smooth it some, theres some places that need a bit more bite - any suggestions?



thanks in advance

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Syrillian

Awesome job CR!... just awesome!

Smoothing by hand should do the trick.

240/320 ~ For deep areas (measured in microns)

400/600 to get a satin-finish

800 to get a quasi-smooth surface that is ready for polishing with a muslin wheel.... or the long road to 1500 and Novus products by hand.

...that looks great, Man. You Rule, and your daughter is very lucky to have such a good Pa.




Yeah... I must have one of those saws... my life will not be complete without one... I just need to trade some more pots-n-pans for extra space to stow it.

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CattleRustler

thanks for the kind words Syrillian, they mean a heck of a lot coming from you mate.

as for the smoothing, do you think those dremel sanding drums (lil round brown things) would have a bit more bite than the grinding stones? The stones seem more for finishing (orange, then blue).

Also there are some buffing heads and a little block of rusty brown paste stuff, is that the rouge? is that to clear the edges?

haha yeah, cant wait for you to get one, so I can learn a few things

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radodrill

I'd say your best bet would be to use a set of needle files on it. On the insides a round file would really come in handy.

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The Duke

A little trick to finishing with abrasive drums on a die grinder or Dremel.
Instead of holding the tool at a 90 degree tilt it about 15 -20 degrees when possible, the sanding drum (or stone) won't get hung up in the groves.

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Syrillian

My experience with the sanding drums is to use them only for internal round cuts.

Oftentimes when I use them for flat surfaces the surface gets a "wave" in it.

For fine or filigree sanding that you want to do I use a combination of home-made tools as well as a set of small files:






Yes. The compound you mention is rouge.

With the correct muslin or cloth wheel (dremel does have diminutive ones) a high-sheen is reached:





These are the buffing tools that I use (I rarely use the angle-grinder as it is more of a broadsword...)

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CattleRustler

yeah I was doing that with the stones (15-20 angle) cool. Ill try out the sanding drums on a left over piece and see what I get.

If syr, or someone could answer the rouge q from above I'd be grateful. It came with the dremel. Looks like rusty putty in a little clear box, similar to something Syr posted in another thread, but the block he had was huge LOL. If someone could explain what that is and what its for that would be cool.

/me eyes the MAPP gas torch....


EDIT: AHA thanks Syr, we cross posted - thanks for the info!!

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The Duke

Holding the tool at an angle as I described helps to attain better control in the afore mentioned description.
If you think plastic is tough, try cast iron and aluminum automotive intake and exhaust ports

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prosser13

I use different grades of sandpaper - starting at about grit 100 for really bad looking cuts and working up to very fine paper to finish it and give it a glossy edge.

It only takes a few minutes on each grit, you'd be surprised.

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Syrillian

Hey CR...

Could you post a pic with a ruler for scale, and tell me how long it took you to cut that piece?

You just got my brain smokin' in overdrive with your post.

I MUST HAVE THAT SAW!

MUST!

Whhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhheeeee!

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