P182 Window Mod - Overclock.net

Gauvenator · 08-10-08

I'm going to put in a piece of bronze acrylic, but I need advice on how to go about cutting the acrylic and the side panel. Also, is double stick tape a good way to attach the acrylic to the side panel?

I'm going for something like this:
http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/3...puter12fr0.jpg

I have a dremel, idk if that will be good for cutting acrylic and the side panel tho.

LaoFX · 08-10-08

the dremel will work if you use the right bit. dremels cut both acrylic and metal!

Also if your going to use double sided tape. I recommend the 3M doubled sided tape.

Gauvenator · 08-10-08

I was looking through one of the how-tos here and it mentioned using a table saw for cutting acrylic. I happen to have one, is this a good idea, or do I need a special blade or something?

commandercup · 08-10-08

edit: poo, I posted too late... I guess its bad to type long posts!

first, check out this great (STICKIED) guide by Syrillian!

then... my personal take

a dremel will suffice for all tasks, however you'll need a whole lot of sanding/filing/grinding to get it to look good on a cut that large unless your a real pro with the dremel!

if you can spare $20... get a cheap jigsaw (Black & Decker Firestorm?) and use that to cut the window along with a veneer/siding/leveling bar/ruler to ensure that lines are perfectly straight, if you are sure you want to cut to a point (you'll have a hard time using u/c-channel on these corners... so you'll probably want to use some enamel to color the silver edge of the metal [unless your case is silver] to make it blend in more after filing and sanding!) once you reach the point of the window, just realign the ruler/bar and cut again!

jigsaws are definitely a better tool for windows (unless they are tiny) then a dremel is

likewise with acrylic (cast! not extruded) since you'll probably be cutting a long distance rather then some short cuts... not to mention because rotary tool's rely on RPM's, they will cause the acrylic to melt quickly and to seal itself upon cutting... you can still pull it apart/recut it, but it makes for more work, alternatively, you can put the RPM's down, but then it takes longer to cut...

double-sided tape is a great method! it doesn't leave ugly locking channel or any bolts... 3M #4010 is preferred! that can support quite a heavy load...

edit:

yes! use a table saw if you have access for the acrylic! it'll really simplify the cutting process... it'll take a quarter of the time!

I believe there are plastic specific cutting blades for table saws

Gauvenator · 08-10-08

Quote:

Originally Posted by commandercup

edit: poo, I posted too late... I guess its bad to type long posts!

first, check out this great (STICKIED) guide by Syrillian!

then... my personal take

a dremel will suffice for all tasks, however you'll need a whole lot of sanding/filing/grinding to get it to look good on a cut that large unless your a real pro with the dremel!

if you can spare $20... get a cheap jigsaw (Black & Decker Firestorm?) and use that to cut the window along with a veneer/siding/leveling bar/ruler to ensure that lines are perfectly straight, if you are sure you want to cut to a point (you'll have a hard time using u/c-channel on these corners... so you'll probably want to use some enamel to color the silver edge of the metal [unless your case is silver] to make it blend in more after filing and sanding!) once you reach the point of the window, just realign the ruler/bar and cut again!

jigsaws are definitely a better tool for windows (unless they are tiny) then a dremel is

likewise with acrylic (cast! not extruded) since you'll probably be cutting a long distance rather then some short cuts... not to mention because rotary tool's rely on RPM's, they will cause the acrylic to melt quickly and to seal itself upon cutting... you can still pull it apart/recut it, but it makes for more work, alternatively, you can put the RPM's down, but then it takes longer to cut...

double-sided tape is a great method! it doesn't leave ugly locking channel or any bolts... 3M #4010 is preferred! that can support quite a heavy load...

edit:

yes! use a table saw if you have access for the acrylic! it'll really simplify the cutting process... it'll take a quarter of the time!

I believe there are plastic specific cutting blades for table saws

awesome we just so happen to have a jigsaw. Do I need any specific blade?

edit: just saw your edit; i'll look into new blades

commandercup · 08-10-08

yes, you want a blade that is meant for plastic (check out at retailers, all the jigsaw blade packages are labeled for which material they are meant for)

I'm guessing the plastic cutting blades have more teeth per inch... (at least thats how it works with scroll saw blades.)

Gauvenator · 08-12-08

Quote:

Originally Posted by commandercup

yes, you want a blade that is meant for plastic (check out at retailers, all the jigsaw blade packages are labeled for which material they are meant for)

I'm guessing the plastic cutting blades have more teeth per inch... (at least thats how it works with scroll saw blades.)

I'll be ordering the acrylic tomorrow, along with some more wc stuff and uv lights to spiff things up a bit

I'll take a trip down to home depot for the new blades.

Option B · 08-12-08

When I am not using a water jet to cut Acrylic, I use a GOOD jig saw with a fine blade on medium speed jsut go slow and let the saw do the job, I put jsut enough pressure on the saw to move it but not to effect the cutting of the blade..

commandercup · 08-12-08

Quote:

Originally Posted by Option B

When I am not using a water jet to cut Acrylic, I use a GOOD jig saw with a fine blade on medium speed jsut go slow and let the saw do the job, I put jsut enough pressure on the saw to move it but not to effect the cutting of the blade..

with my crappy jig, the metal is a bit rough on the guide, so I tend to cut up the paper backing on the acrylic which can cause the acrylic to get scratched.

Thus, it might be good to tape on top of the paper backing (painting or masking to preserve the paper) to make sure it doesn't get cut up.

Option B · 08-12-08

I use a Porter Cable Jig Saw with a plastic bottom but I have also used a crappy saw and jsut taped the bottom of it up so it did not scratch the acrylic.

08-10-08	#4 (permalink)
commandercup Case Modder Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Vienna, VA Posts: 464 Rep: 35 Unique Rep: 26 Trader Rating: 2	edit: poo, I posted too late... I guess its bad to type long posts! first, check out this great (STICKIED) guide by Syrillian! then... my personal take a dremel will suffice for all tasks, however you'll need a whole lot of sanding/filing/grinding to get it to look good on a cut that large unless your a real pro with the dremel! if you can spare $20... get a cheap jigsaw (Black & Decker Firestorm?) and use that to cut the window along with a veneer/siding/leveling bar/ruler to ensure that lines are perfectly straight, if you are sure you want to cut to a point (you'll have a hard time using u/c-channel on these corners... so you'll probably want to use some enamel to color the silver edge of the metal [unless your case is silver] to make it blend in more after filing and sanding!) once you reach the point of the window, just realign the ruler/bar and cut again! jigsaws are definitely a better tool for windows (unless they are tiny) then a dremel is likewise with acrylic (cast! not extruded) since you'll probably be cutting a long distance rather then some short cuts... not to mention because rotary tool's rely on RPM's, they will cause the acrylic to melt quickly and to seal itself upon cutting... you can still pull it apart/recut it, but it makes for more work, alternatively, you can put the RPM's down, but then it takes longer to cut... double-sided tape is a great method! it doesn't leave ugly locking channel or any bolts... 3M #4010 is preferred! that can support quite a heavy load... edit: yes! use a table saw if you have access for the acrylic! it'll really simplify the cutting process... it'll take a quarter of the time! I believe there are plastic specific cutting blades for table saws __________________ Heatware \| eBay Feedback \| SlaughterBox

08-10-08	#6 (permalink)
commandercup Case Modder Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Vienna, VA Posts: 464 Rep: 35 Unique Rep: 26 Trader Rating: 2	yes, you want a blade that is meant for plastic (check out at retailers, all the jigsaw blade packages are labeled for which material they are meant for) I'm guessing the plastic cutting blades have more teeth per inch... (at least thats how it works with scroll saw blades.) __________________ Heatware \| eBay Feedback \| SlaughterBox

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P182 Window Mod

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