Lambent Darkness 7

***This is an advanced guide for Modders who have mastered spray can painting and want to try spray gun painting. The difficulty of this guide is hard. ***

Now you are ready to take your case painting to the next level. Well this guide will help you do it. For your project this time around, the spray can will not be good enough for you, you want to get a professional looking, durable paint job that looks better and lasts longer. You may also want to select your own color from hundreds of color choices instead of just the standard colors on the spray can shelf. Note painting with a spray gun is going to be more costly than that of a spray can but the end result will be far superior. It also opens up a lot more options for the modder.

This is my first guide I am writing, so if anyone finds anything that needs correcting, edited or the structure of it can be improved by all means let me know and I will fix it as soon as possible. In addition, so I can learn for next time I write one. A lot of effort went into putting this guide together, so I hope people find it helpful and learn something new along the way

In this Guide, I am going to try to uncover spray gun painting and techniques with a HVLP gun that are habit to an experienced painter but not to a person that does not pickup a spray gun everyday or has not had experience in a auto body shop. I will explain subjects like choosing your color and paint system, acquiring the equipment we need, setting up the equipment, gun cleaning, testing your spray pattern, preparing your surface, and examples on how the results should look like. These guns allow more paint on the surface and less wasted as overspray, with professional results. What is HVLP? It stands for High Volume Low Pressure; it gives a high volume of product on the surface with low air pressure at the air cap. HVLP guns produce less pollution and release less hazardous material in the air then conventional guns. HVLP guns put approximately 65% of the material sprayed on the surface, as opposed to 65% of material wasted with conventional guns that means less paint to buy and more money saved. In addition, they circulate less dust and contaminates in the air with its low pressure at the cap compared to conventional guns that results in less if any contaminates settling on the painted surface. HVLP guns also provide better adhesion for the sprayed paint because of the lower pressure and the droplets do not hit the surface with as much force and thus do not bounce off the surface like a conventional gun.

Below are some resources where you can purchase supplies and tools to start your project. With some examples on what to purchase depending on how much money, you want to spend. Paint supply stores will have most of this equipment also if you want to get it local and not pay for shipping except for the assortment of spray guns the stores usally have one or two on hand.

3M Dual Cartridge Respirator - http://www.tcpglobal.com/3m/3m650-2.aspx .
3M™ Protective Eyewear - http://www.tcpglobal.com/3m/3m655.aspx.
Devilbiss spray Guns - http://www.tcpglobal.com/spraygundepot/devmstrkit.aspx
Sharpe spray guns - http://www.tcpglobal.com/spraygundepot/search.aspx?searchvalue=FX300%20HVLP
Paint mixing supplies - http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/stickshake.aspx
Masking products - http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/masking.aspx

Techniques for painting with a HVLP gun vary slightly on what type of paint you are spraying and the paint system you are using. The most important thing to do is practice on a test panel first if you have never sprayed that type of paint before. The same technique that you use for spraying BC/CC (base coat/clear coat) with a catalyst (a hardener for paint) might yield slightly different results when spraying acrylic enamel paint. Both types would lie on the surface different, flash times are different. What the paint forgives with errors in procedure and technique with catalyzed urethanes are not the same with acrylic enamel. You cannot write a guide on HVLP painting and techniques with automotive paints without talking bout paint systems and equipment, gun maintenance, safety, surface preparation and work area setup among others. All those topics tie in to your final result. Every paint system from automotive paint manufacturers has specific settings for the PSI (pounds per square inch) at the gun, For the fluid tips and air caps for specific guns from popular manufacturers like Sharpe, Devilbiss and Sata, even down to the specific model of the gun. Your paint shop supplier should have the technical manuals (info sheets) on premises for each paint system he sells. The manual (info sheet) lists the settings to use for most guns; some settings are on the label when you buy the paint. When you buy your paint if the setting is not on the label, the shop can and should be able to give you those settings for your specific gun on the info sheet. Spray guns bought from a home improvement store or off-brand guns will not be on the info sheet. For example, if you used the DuPont ChromaBase system and had an unlisted gun, the setting would be 1.4mm – 1.5mm for the fluid tip/air cap that the gun would have to have.

1) Choose your color and paint system

If you choose to use paint from an auto paint manufacturer like DuPont, PPG or Akzo Nobel you can choose from hundreds of colors in thousands of shades, Nason is an affordable brand from DuPont for people wanting to start as inexpensively as possible. If you are really on a tight budget, Dupli-Color has a “Paint Shop” line that is a lacquer paint system that can be used for $20 a Quart each for every stage in their system. They have solid colors and metallic colors and have all the components for their system too from primers to clear coats to cleaners and thinners. Although, Lacquer will not last as long, will not have the appearance/depth, or be as durable as a Urethane Base/Clear coat system.

Here is a paint chip book where you can choose your colors, also the Dupli-Color paint shown:





As you see, the book above is quite large and filled with thousands of colors to choose. You can start with a basic color in mind like blue or red, and then you can choose your shade from that basic color. Otherwise, you can just pick a color if you know what you want right away. Once you have your color in mind, you can choose a paint system to use, like Chromabase, Nason or Lucite. The products in the system are designed to work together in harmony and be compatible and create an excellent and professional job in a variety of conditions. You want to talk with your paint supplier shop and ask him any questions, he will give you excellent info on the paint system you are using and set you up with all the items in the paint system you need. The paint shop might also have most if not all of the paint supplies/accessories you will need too.

2) Tools of the Trade

A) HVLP Gun or set With Stand
B) Air Regulator for gun
C) Air Compressor w/accessories
D) Automotive Masking paper and tape (Scotch 233+)
E) Scrap test panels
F) Hydrometer (measures humidity and temp)
G) Contractor’s construction paper for the floor
H) Air filters for windows
I) Complete Paint System
J) Safety Equipment







These are just some tools and supplies you will need as we progress through the guide I show the items needed for each step of the way.

The above is a HVLP gun. Sata, Devillbiss, Sharpe are manufacturers of high quality spray guns and some are very affordable. You can get a professional high quality Devillbiss gun for $139 -189 that the professional’s use for all different paints you would spray. The guns have different fluid tip and the air cap settings for the different stages of paint to match your paint system’s recommended settings. High Volume body shop guns by the same manufacturer’s that are used in a business cost $300-350 for a single gun. Therefore, you can consider buying a set of guns the links above for sprayguns show sets available for purchase. In addition, you do not have contamination or color bleed of the previous coating in the gun if it is not cleaned perfectly when you buy a set.

To use the HLVP gun you will need:

1) 3/8in Flex Air hose
2) Couplings and Fittings
3) A air gauge/regulator for the end of the gun
4) In-line Air filter or Oil and Water extractor
5) Air compressor
6) Brushes and cleaning tools for the gun

If you are tight on cash, you can borrow or rent the compressor if you lack one. Just make sure you buy your own spray gun because you do not know how someone else used his equipment if you use one that is not your own. You need to have an acceptable work area; a garage or something similar would be fine. Remember you also need ventilation so put a box fan or two in a couple of windows, for air circulation. You can also put air filters for paint in the windows to reduce hazards. Being that we are using a HVLP gun is a tremendous positive since most of us are doing our projects at home, the gun reduces overspray and vapors which draws less attention from your neighbors which probably don’t approve of you polluting the air they breathe with your spray painting anyway.

3) Check/Prepare your compressor

Next is to make sure the equipment is in working order and having a good clean air supply is very important. Check to make sure hoses, compressor, couplings and fittings are secure and use white thread tape on the fittings. Preferably, you would have a filtering system between the gun and the compressor for oil/water capture. They cost around $50-70. Some may want to start inexpensive as possible so you can use an inline air filter (that attaches to the compressor directly). I like to use a new one for every project they only cost $10-15. If the filter has not been replaced since your last project or you do not remember, you run the risk of contaminating the paint job with moisture and oil, which will cause a world of grief in the form of paint defects. The compressor should be full of air and ready to use. My tank is filled to 120psi, is regulated at 60psi. To set up the regulated pressure, connect the gun; hold the trigger open and the set the dial on the compressor to the psi you need. Set the regulated psi on the compressor gauge while the gun trigger is pulled is the key. On the compressor side, static is 60psi and it drops to 40-psi active, also the psi drops even more depending because of the hose length so the longer the hose the higher the gauge is going to be on the compressor for regulated when your not spraying.





4) Safety equipment

Next, we take care of protecting our self’s, Automotive paints are hazardous to your health, your skin, eyes and respiratory system. Most catalyzed paints contain isocyanates (a type of hardener) unless you are using an Iso-free catalyst, isocyanates are known to cause nerve, brain and respiratory damage and require you to wear a full mask positive pressure supplied air respirator (Niosh TC-19C) for complete protection. A half/full mask respirator without supplied air does not provide adequate protection from those hazardous materials in the paint. The unactivated paints do not contain a hardener; a half/full mask automotive respirator should be adequate for those paints. However, the cost of a full air supplied respirator may be lot more than people would want to spend usually $100-120. In my opinion, as long as you have a dual cartridge P-95 or P-100 (TC-23/TC-84) respirator with replaceable particle filters and cartridges, goggles, head sock, coveralls and gloves you should be fine unless you have lung or breathing problems like asthma then I would rent or buy a supplied air respirator. Additionally, I leave my work area after I finish spraying and come back just before the flash time is over and also after the final coat in that layer I let my work area clear out for 15 min then I come back. You can rent a full mask positive pressure supplied air respirator from auto stores or places that rent painting tools and supplies.



5) Spray Gun Preparation

Next, we have to make sure the gun is clean before you use it. If properly cleaned, after your last painting session last there is nothing to worry about. When painting, the internal parts of the gun can become clogged with paint and foreign material sometimes and must be cleaned out. To clean a gun after painting, Fill the cup 1/8th way with lacquer thinner (not your expensive reducer) and swoosh it around a bit then pour it out. Then fill it again 1/4thway put the cap back on and spray thinner through the gun to clean it out. Repeat the step until the solvent sprays clean. Clean the air cap and fluid tip with gun cleaning brush if needed and wipe the gun down with a rag and thinner if needed. Last, run air though the gun to get rid of any solvent in the left in the gun. If you have any solvent or paint left leftover utilize a old paint can or some metal container for the used/dirty thinner then bring it to a body shop or your paint shop to dispose of it, in most states it is illegal to dispose of it on the ground or in a drain. You must clean the gun thoroughly when switching coatings (primer, base coat, clear) if you only have one gun. It is crucial to clean the gun clean as soon as possible after you’re finished spraying. (Remember do not use your paint reducer to clean it, it is too expensive.) Never use any tool or sharp object to unclog or clean your gun, use the brushes and cleaning tools that were supplied with the gun or are made for spray guns.

6) Work area Preparation

Lastly, make sure the area is organized, and clutter free. Sweep the floor and wet it a little after to control dust and dirt. Make sure the surface you are working/painting on is clean, you have the test panels setup in your painting area for checking your pattern, the atmospheric conditions are idea, and all your supplies are ready. If you do not cover the floor in the spot your painting, I will most likely be the color of the paint you are spraying. I lifted up the paper to show the difference, in the second picture you see how blue and black the paper is where I have been spraying and I covered the floor about 5 feet past the chair and the stool so the floor does not get discolored. On the Hydrometer below, the humidity is 66% and we cannot paint yet. Otherwise the paint will blush on us (turn white and chalky like) and you do not want that. It has to be below 60%. I prefer it to be a comfortable margin under that, like 42% which is perfect (picture not shown). A shelf comes in handy like to put your painted parts or supplies on to keep organized.





7) Panel/Surface preparation

The way the finished paint looks, depends on how you prepared it, For Pro results, the surface has to be smooth and free of contaminates, Take time to smooth the surface with sanding if it has imperfections and is not completely smooth. 220 Grit should do fine to smooth out the panel below. Otherwise, the imperfections or roughness on the surface will show through on the finished paint, let us take a look at the pictures here,

First, you have to clean the surface with a solvent cleaner. (Prep-All or Surface Klean) The rag took off quite a bit of contamination even though the surface appeared clean to the eye.





Notice how the second picture is mostly just sanding scratches, the first picture you see “lines” in the surface of the metal where I started to sand. The lines will show in the final surface if you were to look at the finished panel up close. I did two small test panels cut out of a larger sheet metal piece. The first one showed the “lines” in the final paint, the second did not. Using 220 grit on the second one smoothed it out. Solvent clean any panels or parts again after you are done sanding.

8) Preparing and mixing the paint

Ok, our area is clean, our equipment is working and ready, we protected against paint spray and our spray guns are clean. You prepared your case parts you are going to paint properly and ready to mix your paint. This mixing process is the same for Primer, Clear Coat, Basecoat, I will show you how to mix paint and how to read a label because since every paint is different and there is no universal mix. We need a few things to do this:

1) Stir sticks
2) Paint strainers
3) Calibrated Measuring stick or bucket (you can get a stick at your paint supplier)
4) Lacquer thinner
5) Paint Reducer
6) Mixing container

Since my paint system was DuPont, my paint shop supplied me with a DuPont calibrated stick when I purchased the paint for my case. Whichever brand you choose, make sure your paint supplier gives you one, if not buy a calibrated mixing bucket. If you use catalyst you need a stick with 3 correct ratio columns. You can see this bucket is specially calibrated for paint mixing. I prefer the mixing stick better though because it is easier and you do not get the numbers mixed up. The backside of the stick (not shown) has more ratios on it also.




For this guide, I am going to mix with automotive paint that the professionals use with a BC/CC system. This is Nason line by DuPont it is an affordable brand for the modder wanting automotive high quality and low cost. However, for my Case project, I used the Chromabase system by DuPont that is a step up from the Nason line.

For Nason or any professional brand (PPG, Sikkens, DuPont) you have to read and follow the directions on the container of the paint system that you’re using; all paint systems will have their own mixing ratio directions and special instructions on the can (Primer, Clear Coat, Basecoat, Ect). The ratio and directions listed will lay the paint down nice and even if the gun is setup right and your technique is good. Below are the directions for use for this particular basecoat, notice how the directions say for Clear Coat “see clear label” because the clear has a separate set of directions. This label also gives the psi settings to use for the gun for the basecoat. The different ratios/directions on different coatings is because the chemistry of the coating is balanced and designed for a variety of conditions with the proper reducer to give the best possible result. There is low temperature reducer, medium and high reducer. Low temp is for below 70 degrees, medium is for 70-80 degrees, and high is for 80 -90 degrees.






When you open the can stir the paint well because it settles like the glob on the stick in the above picture and takes a couple minutes of stirring for it to be mixed especially for metallics. The ratios say 8:1/2:4 to 8; I know that sounds confusing so I will explain. The directions are asking for catalyst/activator (a hardener), reducer and paint. The first number in the ratio is the paint (main product) so 8 is the paint; second number is the catalyst so ½ is the activator; then the third number is the reducer so 4 is the reducer. Works out to be 8 parts paint, ½ of the 8 parts is the activator and 4 parts reducer to 8 parts paint (8:1/2:4 to 8). Alternatively, it also says 2oz per quart for catalyst you can also break it down by ounces instead of ratios. Or just get the mixing stick for your paint system and it does it for you and saves you the hassle. Like I did with my paint. The mixing cup works the same way as the stick but only for paint and reducer if you are using catalyst you have to get a stick with the 3 columns. Pour the paint to the number on the stick and then pour the activator to the matching number in next column then reducer to the column after that with the matching number, to mix more use a higher number. Now, notice in the directions it says to mix the catalyst first and mix well, and also on the stick it is the next column. Do not add the reducer first if you are adding catalyst. After that, reduce the mixture by 50%. This is 4:8 or 2:1, anyway you see it its 50% for reducer. You stir it well and your paint is ready. Notice that at the bottom of the directions the paint is good for 4 hrs at 70 degrees (Pot Life). The hotter the temperature is the shorter the paint is good to use. After the time is up the paint is no longer good. You only have a limited time to use it so do not go mixing it too early.

Now we have the mixed paint ready to pour in the gun at any time when we want to. Always use a strainer to put the paint into the gun. Then seal the cap and we can test the spray pattern for the best uniformity that gun can give. The better quality gun you buy the more adjustments it will have, the better patterns it will make and more uniform spray you will get. Below is the gun with the strainer ready to pour in the mixed paint.




10) Testing the spray pattern and adjusting the gun

You want to have sheet metal to practice on for spraying the paint so you can see how it will lay on the surface and how it adheres and to sharpen your technique. Masking paper on a wall or another surface is only good for checking or practicing your patterns. I am going to use the basecoat we just mixed to practice and show you patterns. To adjust the pattern of spray on the gun there are two knobs you have to be familiar with, the number one is the spray pattern valve, and the number two is the fluid control valve. Turning the valves counterclockwise opens the valve and increases the pattern width or gives more fluid, clockwise closes the valves and tightens the pattern or gives less fluid.



You would spray a few rounds to get the pattern just right for the object you painting; small objects would get a tighter small pattern, bigger objects would get a wider larger pattern. I usually leave the fluid valve about ½ open for primers, 3/4 open for basecoats and clear coats. The spray pattern valve is the one I fiddle with the most on my gun. Remember smaller tighter patterns for small case parts bout 2-3 in wide, bigger wider patterns for large case parts about 4-5 in wide. You can experiment with the settings on your own gun to see how they work for you since every gun is going to be different. A general rule is to hold the gun about a hand length away from the surface from the tip of your pinky to the tip of your thumb with your hand spread out (depending on how big your hand is) which would be 6-8 inches. For clear coats, it is usually 8-10 inches. The paint label might have a different distance to use so make sure you check the label and the info sheet for your paint system so you get the best possible result without defects.




The gun needs to be exactly parallel or perpendicular to the surface at all times. Handling the gun properly is essential for a great finish. For the finish to be uniform you have to overlap each pass by 50%. The top of your first stroke should be the in the middle of your second stroke and so on. Use an imaginary line on the surface and practice with it. Use a tight pattern overlap for best results. You will see streaks if you do not overlap properly. Your body and legs need to move and be fluid with the stroke and keep you hand and wrist at 90 degrees to the surface. Remember parallel and straight, no drooping. No arcing the gun and no tilting the gun. Move with your body not with your hand. Do not hold the gun too close or move too fast across the panel. It takes practice but you will get accustomed to it. Keep practicing until you get a smooth even coat. Check out the pictures below.



You should never have to use a pull the trigger fully on the gun; it will spray all over the place, then run and sag like crazy. Use a half trigger or even less depending on the coating your spraying, for primers on my gun it is usually close to half trigger, for basecoats and clear it is about 33-40% trigger pull on my gun.

In picture 1, the result of not overlapping the passes, if you look closely, where the arrows are you see the stripes. In picture 2, we have a good pattern there, pattern #1 I use for bigger parts, pattern #2, I use for small parts. In picture 3 this is the result of getting to close to the surface it sags. In picture 4, I used a full trigger 8 inches away to show you the result, runs and sags. In picture 5, is even, smooth, overlapped paint using the #1 pattern from picture 2.





Once you have your pattern adjusted and you feel you practiced patterns enough, it is time to practice on a test panel.

11) Painting the test panel and practicing your technique

The first thing you want to do immediately before your painting your surface is wipe it with a tack rag. Then position your self and gun before the beginning of the object to paint, pull the trigger just before you hit the area you want to paint and end the stroke past the end of the part and release the trigger right past the end of the surface. If your practiced your technique and have the gun settings right, you should have a even medium wet coat on your test panel. Below is a picture of the panel I sanded earlier with a coat of primer on it. First picture immediately after it was sprayed, then a picture after it flashed for 1 min, and then flashed for 3 min, then 5 minutes. See how it flashed to a nice even smooth finish. I put two coats on the panel. I then took a picture of it after 1 1/2 hrs after it dried. The panel has an even smooth finish on it with no defects or imperfections. You should have a small clock in the painting area to keep track of flash times accurately so you have the best results possible. Even being a minute or two off on the times can be the difference between a flawed job and a perfect job. I have a small battery powered one and put it on the shelf above where I spray.



The picture of the panel with the light shining on it is the final result after 1 1/2 hrs dry time, which would be ready to be sanded and smoothed if need be. The base coat and the primer-surfacer or sealer should be done the same way, with medium wet coats, even and smooth just like the picture. Below is how the base coat should look after 30 min of cure time and ready to be clear coated.



The result is an even smooth uniform finish, with no defects and no imperfections. The base coat should never be sanded since it dries to a smooth matte finish. The preparation below the base coat should be ultra smooth and perfect and the base coat will reveal such when applied and cured for 25-30 min. The big challenge comes when you spray your clear coat. Good news is spraying clear is no different from the coats you applied before it; you have to maintain the same uniformity and even passes with 50% overlap for professional results. The challenge is that clear coat flashes to just that a clear invisible finish, there is no “matte” finish to wait for. You have to look at your clock and follow the flash times for the clear coat you are using. Just make sure your base coat has cured the recommended time usually 30 min, other wise you’ll be most likely be staring at defects in your clear coat as it flashes in the minutes after application. It is not a fun time when you are at the end of all that hard work at the last stage of painting.

This would be the finished product with clear coat applied. The test panel is complete and looks very good with no glaring defects or imperfections either. If you made it this far, without problems, you should be proud of yourself, all that hard work paid off with durable, quality paint job that will last you many, many years.





12) Conclusion

Some people do not understand the big differences between a paint job that takes a couple hours or days to do, and a paint job that takes weeks or a month to complete. Professionals spend hours and hours sanding the surface to an ultra smooth finish. By using proper procedures and techniques along with required film builds to fill in the tiny scratches that sanding leaves behind, then sanding those surfaces to be ultra smooth also. The amount of prep work done is what raises the time spent on the project. It is that prep work that determines the appearance and durability of your paint job and also separates yours from everyone else’s. The most important thing is to practice, practice, and practice.

Case painting can be fun, challenging and satisfying, when you are done with the paint job you will have attained the satisfaction and experience of doing it yourself rather then having to pay someone to do it. The excitement will build when you are nearing completion of the paint job because you will eager to see what all that hard work yielded you. Even though it takes years to become a pro painter, with motivation and effort you can get results like a pro. Learn from people with first hand experience, incorporate their advice, techniques; learn the basics and you can have a new car looking finish on your PC. After all the work is complete, you can admire your project and be confident that your case looks and hangs out with the best of them.

Well that is it let me know if this guide needs anything or corrections need to be made. I hope it is easy to read and follow and I welcome feedback.

__________________

Lambent Darkness 7

Here is a rough (approximate) cost guide for a project using high quality automotive paint sprayed with a conventional/ HVLP gun. Hopefully you already own a spray gun and a compressor, but im including them anyway.

Spray gun- $125-175
Compressor - $175-250 (25gal-33gal)
---------------------------------------
Paint (color)- 1 pint
1)$25 a pint for the lower end (example -Nason) brand from a major paint manufacturer (example-DuPont™)
2)$55 a pint for high end brand " " (Chromabase) - (DuPont™) *Pearl paints and certain colors are more expensive than this.

Primers - 1 quart
1)self etch- $35 low end (example- Nason) // $70 high end (Variprime) - example- by DuPont™.
2)primer surfacer - 25 low end (Nason)// $60 high end (Chromasurfacer)

Clear coat - 1 quart
1) $40 - low end example- (Nason) -(DuPont™)
2) $70 - high end (Chromaclear )


Sandpaper - example (3M Brand)
Pack of 5 - (9in x11 in sheets) 220 -320 grit - $4
Pack of 5 - (9in x11 in sheets) 400 grit - $4
Pack of 5 - (9in x11 in sheets) 600 grit - $4
Pack of 5 - (9in x11 in sheets) 1500 grit - $6
Pack of 5 - (9in x11 in sheets) 2000 grit - $7

Laquer thinner - $6 (for gun cleaning)
Disposable respirator - $30
Gloves - $5 a box
Tyvek®, Coveralls- $10
Microfiber towels -5 pack - $8
Terry cloth towels - 5 pack - $5

Various polishes and compounds for buffing - $30-40

If I missed a item or left one out let me know i'll add it as soon as possible. Thanks everyone

Happy painting

Deism

I like it, very helpful. I just bought a new compressor so i'll have to put this to the test. + good sir.

__________________

Virginia Overclockers Club

I AM TEH LAW GIVAH

some pics might help

__________________

HARDER STYLEZ OF OCN CLUB

!!~AMD Phenom II X3 700 Series OC Club~!!

Lambent Darkness 7

Oh you guys cant see them ? I have like 38 of them in there

__________________

cyberspyder

I can't wait to start painting my case in the bodyshop I work in...though we use BASF not Dupont.

__________________
AUDIO still in use: UE Triple.Fi 10 (Westoned), Westone UM3x, Styleaudio Emerald, Zaph ZBM4, Audiotrak HD2, JBL Power20 amp, Cowon D2
AUDIO retired/broken/gone: Beyerdynamic DT770 Pros/80 (recabled), UE super.fi 3 (Westoned), UE super.fi 5 Pro's (recabled), Shure E2C

I BLEED TOXIC GREEN

....

0rion

They show up fine for me.

__________________
Q6600 @ 4.0ghz validation
Best post EVAR

I AM TEH LAW GIVAH

guess its just me haha, dont worry about it

__________________

HARDER STYLEZ OF OCN CLUB

!!~AMD Phenom II X3 700 Series OC Club~!!

Lambent Darkness 7

Thank you. let me know if it was helpful.

Awesome, BASF is just as good. Thanks man.

Cool he had me worried

__________________

CattleRustler

I havent finished reading htis yet but awesome guide!
thanks Lambent
+REP

__________________

[Current Project] PolymorphiX v2 (alu & steel alu hybrids)
[Pending finish] Butcher's Hook (Slipknot tribute bench in steel)
[mod2hardware] All Modding Projects by CattleRustler
[mod2software] WorklogCreator 1.0.1.6 visually build postable worklogs, quickly & easily with drag and drop