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Old 12-05-08   #11 (permalink)
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FWIW, I have drilled/tapped screwholes into the edge of a 3/4" acrylic panel and it actually worked pretty well; if you had them spaced closely enough that might be enough.
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Old 12-05-08   #12 (permalink)
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my neighbor down the street has every kind of wood working tools known to man that is what he does for a living, so i was thinking of using is band saw and just going slow.

also i was tolled to cover the top and bottom with masking tape to make a "cleaner" cut. and then im going to experiment with some spare acrylic with some taping screws. hopefully it all works out if not then i buy more acrylic.

thanks for all the suggestions, feel free to contribute more
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Old 12-05-08   #13 (permalink)
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3/4" plexi/acrylic if tapped and given nearly full thread engagement will be very strong, as long as you don't get too close to the edge. You will need more screws though than when using the aluminum angle so it depends on the aesthetic you are looking to achieve.
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Old 12-05-08   #14 (permalink)
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ill make it easy for you.
to cut plastic
http://www.tapplastics.com/info/vide...mat=quicktime&

to glue plastic
http://www.tapplastics.com/info/vide...mat=quicktime&

p.s. need quick time player
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Old 12-05-08   #15 (permalink)
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http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...0003+90145+354


Laminate router



very clean cut. Helps to form a better bond then saw's.
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Old 12-05-08   #16 (permalink)
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also can you use just any drill but to drill a hole into it?
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Old 12-06-08   #17 (permalink)
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No you should be a numbered size acrylic drill bit specific for tapping (i.e #29 for #8 screws etc).

Although you can drill with a wood or metal drilling bit there is a chance that it will bugger the hole and chip the face.

If you cannot get a special bit (see McMaster) then clamp the piece to a piece of scrap to minimize tearout on the back side.

Rado was right about using a circular saw. The only issue is that the blade while likely be agressive and could leave a rough edge.

THe router depicted above is a little small to work a 3/4" thick piece but if you make 1/16" passes it could do the job. Use a bottom bearing trimmer bit and a nice straight piece of scrap clamped as a guide to your work.

All tools are dangerous so please use common sense and if you are not familiar with using them see if your firend will help you make the cut.
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Old 12-06-08   #18 (permalink)
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they make laminate blades for circular saws (for cutting house vinyl siding) that would probably work better on acrylic than a standard circ saw blade

my 2 cents
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Old 12-06-08   #19 (permalink)
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Cutting acrylic.
Gluing acrylic
bending acrylic
These might help.
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Old 12-06-08   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLKKROW View Post
also can you use just any drill but to drill a hole into it?
As CD stated, numbered bits should be used to ensure that you have the right sized hole for the tap.

I have used regular numbered drill bits (i.e. meant for drilling metals) on acrylic, but if you start out with the sized drill you need it will likely chip the acrylic. If you have to use drill bits designed for metal, then I suggest slowly stepping up the hole size until you get to the size you need and also use some water as a lubricant as this provides a cleaner hole.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Syrillian View Post
This place is madness... Foxes that make me convulse, flying monkeys, inane videos of sub-par Family's with less than desireable IQ's, music galore.... and somewhere amidst this beautiful insanity... a plastic box that may even be completed someday.

System: RAD GT
CPU
Q6600 G0
Motherboard
DFI Lanparty UT 680i SLI LT T2R/G
Memory
2x1Gb DDR2-1150 OCZ Reaper
Graphics Card
2x BFG 8800 GTX OC
Hard Drive
250Gb SATA | 3x 500Gb SATA | 750Gb SATA
Sound Card
Creative X-Fi XtremeGamer
Power Supply
SilverStone Strider ST1000
Case
DIY -- Acrylic
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