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Old 12-05-08   #1 (permalink)
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Default Update:Simple Acrylic Questions

I know these have been answered like 100 times before, but i cant for the life of me remember.

But real simple what is the easiest way to cut acrylic?

Also if i am going to take to pieces of Acrylic and get them into an L shape what would be the best way to bond them together? i was thinking of just some simple screws? It is going to be one piece on the ground then the other will attach going vertical to make that L shape this will be used as a back stop.

And this is for a Physics Experiment, requiring large amounts of force on the back plate. So i need a strong way to bond them.

+rep for help

im expecting Syrillian and CyberDruid to post cause they are the acrylic gods
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Old 12-05-08   #2 (permalink)
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Be sure to check out the Acrylic Q&A.

Now that I have a table saw that has become my preferred tool for cutting acrylic Before that I was using a jigsaw.


due to the nature of your application, just solvent welding the 2 panels together probably won't be sufficient; you'd need to put some sort of reinforcement in there; some acrylic corner blocks or acrylic reinforcing blocks would probably be ideal
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Old 12-05-08   #3 (permalink)
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solvent welding acrylic (weld on 3) forms a better bond than mechanical fastening. If you bond the two corners, then bond in a "helper spline" youll be set

chemical welding melts the molecules of the acrylic, where they rejoin and form a stronger bond than gluing, much like the weld between two pieces of steel is stronger than the two pieces of steel each individually

its all in the physics
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Old 12-05-08   #4 (permalink)
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Might want to read this thread and then check out the videos on youtube.
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Old 12-05-08   #5 (permalink)
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In the Q&A rado linked, it goes over a technique called snap and score. I have found this to be the easiest. Or a miter saw and box if the piece fits in the miter box. Snapping and scoring results in a little bevel that must be sanded down, so account for that in measuring.

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Old 12-05-08   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McStuff View Post
In the Q&A rado linked, it goes over a technique called snap and score. I have found this to be the easiest.
I personally have never tried the score and snap on acrylic (only glass and some tile), but it has it's limits; the Q&A states that about the max thickness you can effectively snap is 1/4", but even that takes quite a bit of force.
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Old 12-05-08   #7 (permalink)
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yeah the thickness i am dealing with i forgot to mention is 3/4" i was thinking just like a band saw? then using self taping screws like 3-4?
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Old 12-05-08   #8 (permalink)
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If looks is not a part of the equation I reccomend joining the two pieces using 1/8" aluminum angle (1-1/2" leg) and throughbolt it with machine screws and nuts. Use washers on the acrylic side to keep from stressing it when you tighten the bolts.

Trouble with a bandsaw is keeping a perfecly true edge on the piece...you could roughcut it to size then route it perfectly straight and perpendicular
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Old 12-05-08   #9 (permalink)
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for 3/4" I'd probably go with a table saw or circular saw for cutting.

as CD said, angle bar (preferably inside and outside) would add a lot of support to the joint.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Syrillian View Post
This place is madness... Foxes that make me convulse, flying monkeys, inane videos of sub-par Family's with less than desireable IQ's, music galore.... and somewhere amidst this beautiful insanity... a plastic box that may even be completed someday.

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Old 12-05-08   #10 (permalink)
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well it needs to look professional cause it is going to be presented to a lot of websites and stuff like that, i am also getting sponsored for a lot of the main pieces and parts. so professionalism needs to be top tier.

it is going to be used for spring constants, and there will only be about max of 50lbs of pressure on that back stop

+rep to all i wish i could rep radodrill
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