TheBiggestNub

Lambent, this guide is GREAT! Really can't say just how much it helped me to fully grasp the painting process. Having read it I'm 100 times more confident in my next paint project (working on now).

I started to paint an older case I had from quite a few years ago but my first attempt at painting it was a disaster. The end result looked 'OK' but what got me was how easily the paint came off when I was putting the whole thing back together.

Pictures of the debacle (very high res to show the fail in detail!):

http://picasaweb.google.com/thebigge...otchedPaintJob

In your guide you had an image of how the various layers of primer, paint, topcoat, etc will look when all is said and done. This means that with a proper paint job your surface is a bit thicker than it was previously. If that's true, how do you avoid paint coming off when you put things back together....especially pieces that slide against each other and/or lock into place.

I definitely didn't do things the right way the first time around and I'm sure that contributed to the images you see in the above link. However, I'm thinking the same will happen just for the fact that several of the pieces rub together so tightly when re-assembled.

My new approach was to tape/mask any areas off that connect in this way to completely avoid the chipping. Am I doing the right thing there or is it just a matter of doing a better paint job?

Your help would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers and thanks again for the great guide! <3

- TBNub

Lambent Darkness 7

Hello TB nub,

Thank you , Thank you very much. Im glad this guide helped you out.

You cannot completely avoid the paint comming off, you can only prevent it. A powdercoat would be the best if you really want the best resistence to paint comming off as you are refering to. Each layer of paint builds on the next, the "chemisty" of the paint and proper procedure and conditions is what make it stick together. Think of a new car and its paint and how it stands up to the harsh conditions its subjected too.

In my case (Blue Light District Mod), paint adhesion was the key to my success, also my experience and lots of hard treacherous work . And careful handling of the parts and assembly of the mod, like the drive trays and screws. Examples: Gently tighting the screws, sliding the drive trays in place gently as so on. If you "really" want to get in depth look at paint adhesion and the nuances or multiple layers of details and meaning, check out the advanced modders guide in my sig. Although it refers to HVLP gun painting...It still explains paint in more depth and carries over to spray paint too. Happy modding to ya.

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TheBiggestNub

I kinda figured that would be the case. I am completely on board with the prep being the key to making the paint job a success. And this time around i'm going to great lengths to make sure that everything is done properly.

I do have an HVLP gun (was given as a gift) and a small compressor but i'd like to master the spray paint before I move on to the "good stuff".

I did have another question however. In your guide you don't specifically say whether you did a clear coat on the case internals or just left the black top coat. I know you weren't going for the mirror shine on the inside, but I couldn't make out from the images if the black paint had a clear coat or not.

I'm testing my technique on a power supply and if all goes well i'm going to hit a 42U cabinet with a saucy paint job!. Wish me luck.

Thanks again for all your help and your terrific guide, rep+

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grahamcrackuh

Are all of these steps absolutely necessary? If I were going for the easier way out, what steps might I be able to cut corners on.


Yours lazily (and cheapily),

Graham

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Lambent Darkness 7

Your Welcome. Thank you for the additional praise. "I used on the inside of the case satin black coating which is semigloss on the inside. It is the almost the same used on bumpers like the Chevy Cavailer and Neon's black front and rear bumpers. " taken from my from my blue light log . ----> http://www.overclock.net/4453850-post5.html . .

I didnt transpose that in the guide I guess I should so people know . I wish you all the best. As long as you keep your mind on the prep work and enviroment (weather and humidity) you should do A-OK and it should turn out excellent. Practice for your first few sprays and you should be fine. I did that test panel before I painted the case. Good luck man. I would like to know how the progress goes and how it turns out. LD7


Graham, all the steps are not necessary. The guide is for a professional mirror/reflective paint job that is durable and last for years under moderate use and draging to lan partys.

If you want a quick weekend paint job, You can skip out on all the long arduous sanding to make the surface smooth. **you still have to sand somewhat though** and just paint each layer after the flash times are met. You would still have to clean the surfaces too. You dont even have to polish it if you dont want to. To make it even easier for you can follow the directions on the can of krylon or duplicolor and get a acceptable paint job that looks decent to the average joe not looking for awesome results and just wanting a color change for the case.

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TheBiggestNub

[QUOTE=Lambent Darkness 7;6528216]Your Welcome. Thank you for the additional praise. "I used on the inside of the case satin black coating which is semigloss on the inside. It is the almost the same used on bumpers like the Chevy Cavailer and Neon's black front and rear bumpers. " taken from my from my blue light log . ----> http://www.overclock.net/4453850-post5.html . .

Gah! I did read that work log (again, completely awesome and totally inspiring) and I guess I didn't quite get the meaning. I do remember the guide suggesting that glossy top coats don't require a clear coat to protect them, so it would make sense that a semi-gloss would have the same effect.

Thanks again amigo!

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fedex1993

Got a question. I am about to paint my A300 the interior and I got valspar grey primer. Gonna sand down the metal first so the primer has something to adhear to. Do i need to sand the primer and get ready for the base coat? I am using valspar flat black for the base coat. Also do i need a clear coat for the base coat at all?

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Lambent Darkness 7

Well the clear coat is personal pref, I dont want the inside of any of my cases glossy . Usually interiors of parts are matte normally unless you like it that way.

You dont have to sand the primer if paint over it within 20-24 hrs. If you let it dry over 20-24 hrs then then it is required to sand it, but just a scuff on the entire surface with like 400 grit. You dont have to sand the primer for the base coat either if you , spray the base coat withing 24 hrs.

Sanding the primer is primary for apperance purposes (dont get frustrated if it looks like crap LOL if you dont sand ) or if you have major orange peel or a imperfection that came up. Just let the primer flash the proper time before you spray the base coat if you dont want to sand it.

If you have a imperfection that comes up when you paint, like a run or a sag, or white, chalky, cloudiness, you let it dry for 12 hrs and sand the run or sag down or sand the entire surface that is cloudy and recoat it.

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sikone

great work.
+REP

Lambent Darkness 7

Thanks

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