stargate125645

As the title says, I would like some help in designing the layout inside my new Antec 1200. I am coming from a Thermaltake Armor, so I am used to a lot of space (see my Armor build log here).

Things I intend to do:

• Sleeve Antec TriCool cables (same as I did for my Armor build)
• Install SATA DVD burner from my Armor build
• Install fan controller from my Armor build (for CPU fan, case door fan, and an additional internal fan I'll be adding to the supplied HDD cage clip)
• Use this case for a new Core i7 or Phenom II build (using the graphics card, sound card, hard drives, and PSU from my current rig)

Even if I use my Silverstone CFP51-B HDD cage, I will still have an extra bay unused and I don't like things going to waste, so I need some ideas!

Here are some options I am considering:

• Thermaltake iBox (Link)
• Some sort of VFD that will perform the same as my G15 LCD screen (programmable) so that I can get a new keyboard (any links to something that would perform this task would be greatly appreciated!)

What do you think? Any other ideas?

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Links:
[ Project Nighthawk | Project Ablative Armor | G15 LCD Program Archive ]
[ Intel Core i7 Voltage Limits | Overclocking Effects on Benchmark Scores | Explanation of LCD Terminology ]

losttsol

I had a little drive bay box on my old case and won't ever have one again. If you keep nuts and bolts in it they will rattle and slide around every time you move your rig. I would just say no to it personally. What is nice is a cool digital readout fan controller, with knobs. I like this one -Scythe "KAZE MASTER ACE ". cuz it's not too flashy, but looks good. NZXT has a dual drive bay controller if you're trying to take up some space, but no knobs = slower to adjust.

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stargate125645

I appreciate the suggestions! Unfortunately, I will not trust Scythe ever again to control my fans after the Kama Meter turned out to be crap. I also do not feel the need to see temperatures from external probes as they are pretty useless unless properly embedded in the device (which is why I want a VFD or LCD display to show the information my G15 does now). The fan controller I have now is what I will stick with; simple, elegant, and powerful. Do you know of any LCDs or VFDs that meet my requirements?

I won't be moving the case around much so I'm not worried about loose screws. I really have no use for a tool box except for a cloth to wipe dust, so it really isn't a necessity for me anyway, but it is a cheap option to fill a slot that doesn't look horrible.

__________________
Links:
[ Project Nighthawk | Project Ablative Armor | G15 LCD Program Archive ]
[ Intel Core i7 Voltage Limits | Overclocking Effects on Benchmark Scores | Explanation of LCD Terminology ]

losttsol

Oh, I see now that you're putting the fan controller from your old rig in. I like fan controllers with knobs and a lot of the new ones are all digital. I'm glad you said something about the Scythe because I was thinking about getting it. There is actually a Lian Li fan controller I like as well that is really basic, but with some LED's. I know they make great cases, but don't know about this.

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stargate125645

It says each channels supports 20W so purchasing that should be good. As for my comment on Scythe, I could have just gotten a bad product, but everything that could have went wrong short of starting a fire did and it almost cost me my RAID array so I would at least avoid that model.

__________________
Links:
[ Project Nighthawk | Project Ablative Armor | G15 LCD Program Archive ]
[ Intel Core i7 Voltage Limits | Overclocking Effects on Benchmark Scores | Explanation of LCD Terminology ]

stargate125645

Alrighty, so I took apart the Antec 1200 last night to see how feasible cable sleeving the fans would be (I think it's crap that Antec didn't bother to do this themselves). Unfortunately, everthing is powered by a Molex connector and fitting sleeving and heat shrink tubing over those is all but impossible, so I am going to need a good guide on how to dismantle and reassemble Molex connectors, as well as a link to the best tools for the job (I don't want to screw it up). Suggestions?

__________________
Links:
[ Project Nighthawk | Project Ablative Armor | G15 LCD Program Archive ]
[ Intel Core i7 Voltage Limits | Overclocking Effects on Benchmark Scores | Explanation of LCD Terminology ]

Diesel Phreak

What you need is a pin extractor, look on FrozenCPU.com and PerformancePCs.com. They should have one for like $5. You can pull the pins out of the molex and then slide the heatshrink over it.

Or you can do like i did and cut a hole in the side of the HDD cage and route all your cables through it, and you won't have to worry about shrinkin the wires.

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My Antec 300 Case Mod

stargate125645

I just ordered FrozenCPU's "universal" remover, but I still have yet to find a guide regarding the dismantling of a MolexDuo/Pass-through connector, as those have the cables coming out the side. I don't have power tools to cut the hole in the drive cage nor would I trust myself to make said modifications.

__________________
Links:
[ Project Nighthawk | Project Ablative Armor | G15 LCD Program Archive ]
[ Intel Core i7 Voltage Limits | Overclocking Effects on Benchmark Scores | Explanation of LCD Terminology ]

stargate125645

This is really frustrating! I simply cannot find a single guide the has a molex pass-through plug example. They are relatively common, so how is this possible? Am I just blind?

__________________
Links:
[ Project Nighthawk | Project Ablative Armor | G15 LCD Program Archive ]
[ Intel Core i7 Voltage Limits | Overclocking Effects on Benchmark Scores | Explanation of LCD Terminology ]

Diesel Phreak

Oh yeah i didn't think about that, i'm not quite sure how you would go about doing those kind. It may do it basically the same way IDK, i guess you'll find out when you get the extractor.

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My Antec 300 Case Mod