Mechanical Keyboard Guide - Overclock.net

Manyak · 04-13-09

I've found a pretty good guide for those of you who have never used any keyboard other than a standard rubber dome or scissor switch.

http://hothardware.com/cs/blogs/mrtg...mystified.aspx

Quote:

In my opinion, the best keyboards available have mechanical key switches. They are known as mechanical keyboards, or mechanical key switch keyboards. What makes them so desirable is that mechanical keyboards tend to be constructed of higher quality materials, they last longer and are more reliable, and most importantly, once properly acclimated to one, a mechanical key switch keyboard will make you a better typist--you may even be able to get work done faster, with less fatigue.

That may sound like a stretch, but it is absolutely true. You see, the vast majority of keyboards included with white box systems or sold at office supply stores are rubber dome or membrane keyboards. They are inexpensive, mass produced, relatively low quality devices that are inconsistent and degrade the user experience. The problem is most users don't know this, or simply don't care. The appeal of cheap rubber dome or membrane keyboards is that they're usually available in a variety of styles, are included "free" with a new system, and they may sport additional features like media controls or wireless connectivity. But these cheap keyboards typically don't provide users with any tactile feedback, the keys feel mushy and may not all actuate at the same point, and the entire keyboard assemblies themselves tend to flex and move around when typed on. Not fun.

Depending on the type of switch used in a mechanical keyboard, however, it will offer distinct tactile feedback to the user--which is to say there is a pronounced "bump" transmitted to the user's finger tip when a key is pressed. Once acclimated to the tactile feedback, users of mechanical keyboards have a second feedback mechanism, other than a letter appearing on screen, by which they'll know a key has been pressed. Many mechanical keyboards also have clicky key switches, which provide a third, audible feedback mechanism--you feel the tactility of the switch, hear it click, and see the letter appear on screen. The switches are built to stricter tolerances than rubber domes as well, so key presses are consistent across all of the keys. And mechanical keyboards, more often than not, are also heavier and more rigid than rubber dome boards. All of these things add up and culminate in what is simply a better product in my opinion.

If after reading it and watching the video you are convinced to switch away from your plain old rubber dome keyboard (Logitech G15 owners, I'm talking to you!), take this piece of advice:

For typing, you generally want switches with Tactile feedback. Part of the beauty of mechanical boards is that you don't have to press the keys all the way down for them to register - and with tactile feedback, you know exactly when each key has registered. It might take a bit of adjustment when you are coming off of rubber domes, but finding a switch type you like is well worth the effort.

Features To Look For and Myths to Ignore

n-key Rollover (NKRO)
This is when you can press as many keys as you want at the same time, and all of them go through. This is similar to what some 'gaming keyboards' incorrectly market as "anti-ghosting", even though Logitech and Razer only apply it to the WASD cluster (more on what ghosting really means later). You might also hear the term where n is replaced with a number (i.e., 6-key rollover), which means that up to that number of keys can be pressed simultaneously. Note that only PS/2 keyboards can exhibit full n-key rollover. USB spec limits keyboards to 6 regular keys plus 4 modifiers (but remember, it's not guaranteed, it's just a maximum).

Ghosting
Ghosting is when you press two keys on the keyboard, and a 3rd key - which you didn't press - gets sent to the PC as well. This is very rarely seen on even the cheapest modern boards, because manufacturers have the habit of limiting the rollover so that ghost keys are always blocked.

Key Bouncing
All types of key switches - including rubber domes - do this. When you press a key, the switch "bounces" on and off very quickly as it sets into place. This causes keys to register multiple times for each press. Because of this, keyboards need to implement some sort of debouncing delay - so that once you press a key, the controller waits a certain amount of time before registering a keypress. As an example, Cherry MX switches need 5ms of debouncing time, while rubber domes need longer (exactly how long depends on their quality).

Polling Rates and Response Times
While it is very useful for mice, it's just about meaningless for keyboards. Let's assume for a minute that all switches have the 5ms debouncing time of Cherry MX switches (which is being very generous). Even if you had super human speed and reflexes, every single key would be delayed by at least that much. So really, any polling rate over 200Hz (at best) is absolutely useless, and nothing but market hype. It may even be a bit detrimental, because you'd be wasting CPU time polling the keyboard unneededly. And unlike USB keyboards, PS/2 boards aren't polled at all. They simply send the signal to the PC whenever they are ready to, which causes a hardware interrupt, forcing the CPU to register that keystroke.

PS/2 or USB?
PS/2 wins on three fronts: First, it supports full n-key rollover. Second, PS/2 keyboards aren't polled, but are completely interrupt based. And third, it is impossible for it to be delayed by the USB bus being used by other devices. There are two types of USB transfer modes - the interrupt transfer mode (USB polls keyboard, when key is sensed the USB controller sends the interrupt to the CPU), and the isochronous transfer mode, which reserves a certain amount of bandwidth for the keyboard with a guaranteed latency on the bus. Unfortunately, there are absolutely no keyboards made that use the latter, because special controllers would have to be used, thus making it cost prohibitive.

So if your keyboard supports both PS/2 and USB, and your PC has a PS/2 port, there's no reason not to use it.

Modern Mechanical Keyboards

In the past few months it seems that there's been a lot more interest in mechanical keyboards than there used to. They are both great to type on and great to game on, but the trick is finding one that you like. But so far all that's been explained to you is why most people prefer mechanical boards over rubber domes.

And so I give you this compilation of today's most commonly manufactured boards. I also included any information about them I could, as well as a personal rating (out of 10) of their feel and usefulness for both typing and gaming. Keep in mind that your personal preference may be different, so check the information on the switch type and other quirks of that board to see if it could be right for you.

Unicomp Boards

Unicomp has many different Buckling Spring boards, all with the same feel. Their springs are slightly lighter to the touch than the original IBM Model Ms, but all other differences are minor. They use the same key matrix and only modified the controller to use a USB connection if you opted for it. Overall it's an excellent board to use, just as long as you don't mind the noise.

Link: Unicomp Store
Price: $69 - $99
Switch Type: Buckling Springs (Tactile, Clicky)
Key feel: Heavy
Tactile feel: Crisp and precise
Noise: Very Loud
Rollover: Min of 3, Max of 12
Key Delay: 3ms
Key Travel: 2.3mm to actuation, 4mm to bottom
Key Shape: Sculpted
Typing: 7/10
The preciseness of the tactile bump is great, but the keys could be lighter
Gaming: 7/10
It accepts all combinations of keys used during gaming (like Q+W+D+Shift+Spacebar), and the stiffer springs make it unlikely to accidentally press the wrong keys by accident. But it lacks true n-key rollover and it's noise might make a game unenjoyable without headphones - it's the loudest keyboard in this lineup. However, the 'terminal' models have 12 keys on the left side that send "Shift + F1 to F12" scancodes to the PC, and can be used as macro keys using the program Autohotkey.

Filco Majestouch

These boards are probably the best quality mechanical boards you're likely to come across. They've got excellent build quality, both PS/2 and USB compatibility, the option for full n-key rollover (which I will refer to as NKRO from now on), the option to be tenkeyless, the option for blank keys, and most importantly - you get to choose which kind of Cherry switch you like. And if you get a tenkeyless model they also have matching mechanical number pads to go with it! If you're ready to pay $100+ for a keyboard and like any of the Cherry MX switches, don't even think about getting a different board - not for typing, not for gaming.

Link: http://www.elitekeyboards.com
Price: $80 - $130
Switch Type: Cherry MX Blue, Brown, or Black
Key feel: Light (Blues), Very Light (Brows), Stiff and Springy (Blacks)
Tactile feel: Crisp (Blues), Rounded (Browns), No tactile feedback (Blacks)
Noise: Light click (Blues), Silent unless bottoming out (Browns + Blacks)
Rollover: Full NKRO on PS/2, 6-key + 4-modifiers on USB
Key Delay: 3ms on PS/2
Key Travel: 2mm to actuation, 4mm to bottom
Typing: 10/10 (Blues), 8/10 (Browns), 5/10 (Blacks)
As long as you pick the right switch to suit you you will not be disappointed with this board. It is excellent in every way.
Gaming: 9/10 (Blues), 8/10 (Browns), 10/10 (Blacks)
The reason the Cherry Blacks are better for gaming is because they are a) stiffer than the others, so that you don't press keys accidentally, and b) have no tactile bump, which makes it easier to rapidly press a key over and over (like for dodging in Unreal Tournament). But besides the switch type, this keyboard is perfectly equipped for gaming with a native PS/2 controller and full NKRO. And you can also switch out the WASD keys for purple ones!

iRocks KR-6230

All the information you'd need about this keyboard can be found here.

Link: Newegg
Price: $89
Switch Type: Cherry MX Brown
Key feel: Light
Tactile feel: Light Tactile Feedback
Noise: Soft
Rollover: True 6+4 key rollover, with a sequencing method for pseudo-NKRO
Key Delay: 6ms
Key travel: 2ms to actuation, 4ms to bottom
Key Shape: Sculpted
Typing: 8/10
The ?/ key is shoved off to the side, which takes a few days to get used to. But after that period it becomes as natural as any other keyboard.
Gaming: 8/10
This keyboard is great for gaming in every way, and with it's compact size and slightly less weight it's great to haul around for LANs if you're into that. The only thing keeping it from a full 10 is that it uses Cherry Browns instead of Blacks. But Browns are a lot nicer to type on, so it balances it all out.

ABS M1

If you're looking for a bang-for-your-buck keyboard for gaming, look no further. The key feel isn't the greatest, but you won't find a better mechanical board for gaming at this price. But if typing feel is important and you are unsure about how all these different switches feel, just skip this board and read on.

Link: Newegg
Price: $44
Switch Type: Black Alps Copies
Key feel: Moderate
Tactile feel: Light Tactile Feedback
Noise: Clacky when bottoming out keys, but not too loud
Rollover: 6-key + modifiers, but rumors say it's not implemented well
Key Delay: Untested
Key travel: Unknown
Key Shape: Sculpted
Typing: 7/10
There's not much to say about this keyboard when it comes to typing. It's just a basic board and doesn't stand out in any area.
Gaming: 9/10
There's only one reason it doesn't get a full score, which is because it's not full NKRO.

Deck Keyboards

These are the only readily available mechanical keyboards with backlighting, and you can choose between red, blue, and green LEDs to match your case and other peripherals. The only catch with these boards is that they only use Cherry MX Black switches, meaning they are linear - amazing for gaming, not so great for typing. But Deck has announced a tactile version of their boards that will be released in a week or two, and they said they would use Cherry MX White switches. Those are basically like Cherry Browns but stiffer (they use the spring out of the Blacks)

Note: If you are a modder and you like backlit keys, keep in mind that the keycaps used on this board fit on all Cherry MX switches. So if you don't want to use these switches you can either stick these keycaps onto a different board and add your own LEDs, or replace the switches on these boards with some simple soldering.

Link: http://www.deckkeyboards.com/
Price: $140-$160
Switch Type: Cherry MX Black or White
Key feel: Stiff Linear (Blacks), Stiff Tactile (Whites)
Tactile feel: None (Blacks), light tactile bump (Whites)
Noise: None
Rollover: Full NKRO
Key Delay: Untested
Key Travel: 2mm to actuation, 4mm to bottom
Key Shape: Flat
Typing: 6/10 (Blacks), 7/10 (Whites)
These boards gain 1 point over the Filcos with Cherry Blacks because the backlighting can help those who aren't touch-typers in the dark.
Gaming: 10/10 (Both Switch Types)
This board is just as good as the Filco in every way when it comes to gaming. PS/2 connection, full NKRO, and Cherry Black switches. If all you want is a keyboard to play games on this one is king.

iOne Scorpius M10

Remember when I said "if you want a value board for typing keep reading"? Well this is it. For this price you won't get a better typing experience anywhere you look.

Link: http://www.max-geek-llc-amazonwebstore.com
Price: $50
Switch Type: Cherry MX Blue
Key feel: Light
Tactile feel: Crisp
Noise: Light Clicks
Rollover: Standard IBM (2-key to 12-key)
Key Delay: Untested
Key Travel: 2mm to actuation, 4mm to bottom
Key Shape: Sculpted
Typing: 9/10
The Cherry Blue switches make this board absolutely great for typing. It's only problem is that it's build quality is not top-notch. But don't let that deter you, because it will still hold it's own under all kinds of stress, even if you use it as a weapon.
Gaming: 6/10
The standard IBM matrix means that standard WASD gaming works perfectly fine. The problem is that the light switches might make it easier to accidentally press a key if your finger wanders or lands in between two keys - this is what makes it lose a point over the Unicomp boards.

Steelseries 7G

Although I can't prove it, I have this gut feeling that this board and the Filcos are all made by the same manufacturer - Costar. They are all so similar in size and shape that it has to be the case. However, Filcos are still a better keyboard for almost everyone. First because of your choice of switches, and second because of the layout.

Link: http://www.newegg.com
Price: $140
Switch Type: Cherry MX Black
Key feel: Stiff and Linear
Tactile feel: None
Noise: Very Little
Rollover: Full NKRO
Key Delay: Untested
Key Travel: 2mm to actuation, 4mm to bottom
Key Shape: Sculpted
Typing: 4/10
As you've probably figured out by now, Cherry Black switches are best as pure gaming switches because of their stiffness. And this board gets a lower score than other boards because of it's layout. The Enter key is larger than normal, and the Backspace and Left Shift keys are shrunk. If you are comfortable with keyboards with that sort of layout then just ignore this. But if you aren't, then be ready to reach further away with your pinky to fix your typos.
Gaming: 10/10
Just like several other boards here, this one is perfect for gaming. The Black Cherries help against accidental keypresses, it has full NKRO, and a PS/2 connection for near-instant response. It's added benefit is that because of it's smaller Left Shift key and addition of another key between it and 'Z', you get one more key that you can reach easily while gaming.

Topre Realforce 87U and Happy Hacking Pro II

Guess what? These keyboards are not mechanical. Nope. They use Topre Capacitive switches - rubber domes with springs underneath. But these are not your average Logitech rubber domes, they are specially designed to give you that tactile feedback and actuate before they bottom out, much like a mechanical board does. They have the lightest feel out of virtually any keyboard out there, the lightest ones requiring less than half the force of a Model M (35cN vs 80cN).

The 87U uses different weighted keys - the letter keys are 35cN, the 'pinky' keys are 45cN, and the rest of the board (like the F- keys) are 55cN. The HHKB is 45cN all over.

Link: http://www.elitekeyboards.com
Price: $244 (HHKB), $256 (Realforce)
Switch Type: Topre Capacitive
Key feel: Very Light
Tactile feel: Feels like a cross between a rubber dome and a mechanical
Noise: None
Rollover: 6-key
Key Delay: Untested
Key Travel: 4mm to bottom
Key Shape: Sculpted
Typing: 10/10
These are considered by many to be the best keyboards they have ever typed on. The switches are very light, the tactile feel is enjoyable, and you don't have to bottom out against solid plastic like regular rubber domes. So your fingers don't ever fatigue (if you type properly of course).
Gaming: 7/10
If you're the type of person that gets really, really into a game and starts pounding on keys as he's playing, don't game on this keyboard. The very light switches won't do you any good. But other than that, unless you're playing a game with both hands on the keyboard it will do just fine!

Matias Tactile Pro 2.0

That's right, Mac users get some lovin' too! They've got two versions - one for just Mac, and one for PC/Mac, but the only differences between them are the color, the print on the keys, and the order of the alt and meta keys. Technically the white Mac-only one won't work if you plug it straight into a PC, but they give you instructions on how to force it to anyway.

Link: http://www.matias.ca
Price: $150
Switch Type: Alps Strongman
Key feel: Very light
Tactile feel: Very sharp
Noise: The switches make little noise, but the clacking of bottoming out is LOUD
Rollover: 3-key min, unknown max
Key Delay: Untested
Key Travel: Unknown
Key Shape: Sculpted
Typing: 9/10
There are two problems with this keyboard when it comes to typing. First, rollover is very low compared to most keyboards. Second, early revisions have a problem with ghost keys. For example, if you press 'n, c, e' together, you get a 'y' in the string as well ("dance" turns into "dancey"). If you buy a new one directly from them you won't get this problem (they have acknowledged it and fixed it), but if you try for a used one off of ebay then be sure you ask the seller to test it for you.
Gaming: 1/10
Due to rollover and potential ghost key problems, this keyboard is unsuited for gaming unless you absolutely have to use it. Who games on a Mac anyway?

Optimus Maximus

The fanciest, most expensive keyboard in the world. I bet the magnetic reed-switch keyboards they use on NASA space shuttles don't even cost as much.

I really don't expect anyone to buy this. I'm only listing it here because it fits the criteria - it's readily available, and it uses mechanical switches.

Link: http://www.artlebedev.com
Price: $1257
Switch Type: Cherry ML Black (not to be confused with MX Black)
Key feel: Light at first, then stiff to 'catch' your finger before the bottom
Tactile feel: Tactile bump right after rest position
Noise: Medium
Rollover: Unknown
Key Delay: Unknown
Key Travel: 2mm
Key Shape: Flat
Typing: 8/10
The switches on this keyboard cater to those who like the extremely short travel distance of laptop keys. You have to type very lightly to not bottom out the keys, similar to Cherry Browns. Actually, the best way to describe these switches would be to say that they are Cherry Browns without the first half of their travel.
Gaming: ?/10
There isn't enough information out about this board to determine if it's good for gaming or not. The ability to use and change your own key images on the fly is obviously a great boon, but that doesn't mean that it has the rollover capability to handle games well. And I'm not about to buy this keyboard just to find out.

Some examples of keyboards with each type of switch

----Common Switch Types----

Buckling Spring
- IBM Model M - All Pre-1994, Some Post-1994
- Most Unicomp Keyboards
Topre
- Happy Hacking Pro 2
- Realforce
- Epson InterKX IKXFKB
Cherry MX Blue
- iOne Scorpius M10
- iOne Scorpius M10 BL
- Cherry G80-3000 LSCRC-2
- iOne Scorpius 35
- Das Keyboard (<--not recommended due to badly designed controller)
Cherry MX Brown
- Filco FKBN104M/EB
- Filco FKBN87M/EB
- Filco FKB104M/EB
- FKB22MB
- Compaq MX 11800
- Compaq 11802
- Cherry G80-3000
Cherry MX Black
Cherry ML Black
- Optimus Maximus
- Cherry ML4100
Simplified ALPS Black
- ABS M1
Simplified ALPS White
- Matias Tactile Pro 2.0
- Solidtek ASK-6600U
- Solidtek KB-6600ABU
- SIIG Minitouch
- Kinesis Evolution
Original ALPS Black
- Dell AT101W
Original ALPS White
- Focus FK-5001
- Unitek K-258
- Nan Tan KB-6551

----Uncommon Switch Types----

SMK "Monterey" Switches
- Chicony KB-5181

laurie · 04-13-09

Nice one.
I know the chap who wrote this.
The one thing missing is the Topre capacitive switch.
This is used in the Realforce and the Happy Hacking keyboard.
Both available from a very good seller on ebay.
In my opinion and that of many keyboard enthusiasts these are the best since the IBM Model M.

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/merchant/stlensbar
also on USA ebay
http://shop.ebay.com/merchant/stlensbar

And for fun here are some of mine

Manyak · 04-13-09

Nice collection

Its really a shame that people go out there and spend $80 on a G15 instead of stuff like this. Most of your interaction with your PC is done through the keyboard, it really should be the last thing to be buying cheap.

Then again, its kind of hard to prove that these switches are a million times better than domes unless the person tries them first hand.

**stanrc** · 04-13-09

I don't think I've ever used mechanical, now I'm curious...

timw4mail · 04-13-09

Quote:

Originally Posted by stanrc

I don't think I've ever used mechanical, now I'm curious...

At first it seems a little weird, but after a while you really grow to hate the membranes. Scissor-switch isn't too bad, depending on the actual mechanism behind it, but it still doesn't have the tactile feedback of a good mechanical switch keyboard.

I <3 My Model M

Quote:

Originally Posted by laurie

Nice one.
I know the chap who wrote this.
The one thing missing is the Topre capacitive switch.
This is used in the Realforce and the Happy Hacking keyboard.
Both available from a very good seller on ebay.
In my opinion and that of many keyboard enthusiasts these are the best since the IBM Model M.

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/merchant/stlensbar
also on USA ebay
http://shop.ebay.com/merchant/stlensbar

Wow...the Unicomp Model M clones are really cheap in comparison:
http://pckeyboards.stores.yahoo.net//keyboards.html

How'd you get a blank one?

Ch13f121 · 04-13-09

Quote:

Originally Posted by stanrc

I don't think I've ever used mechanical, now I'm curious...

Best keyboard you can ever use.

I use a Deck Toxic, 1.5 years old and still types as good as the day I bought it, looks as good too.

Of course it better for $175.

Manyak · 04-13-09

Quote:

Originally Posted by stanrc

I don't think I've ever used mechanical, now I'm curious...

You won't be disappointed! Its pretty much a guarantee of faster and more accurate typing, less fatigue, and a keyboard that will last longer than any other part in your PC no matter how much you use it.

laurie · 04-13-09

Quote:

Originally Posted by timw4mail

Wow...the Unicomp Model M clones are really cheap in comparison:
http://pckeyboards.stores.yahoo.net//keyboards.html

How'd you get a blank one?

A blank what? I had a blank happy hacker. I also have a set of blank key caps for my IBM mini.
It looks very cool with them on.
I will find a pic.

Manyak · 04-13-09

Updated the OP, added a few examples of keyboards with different switch types for anyone interested.

laurie · 04-13-09

Quote:

Originally Posted by Manyak

Updated the OP, added a few examples of keyboards with different switch types for anyone interested.

Nice update! I would mention Filco too. The Majestouch keyboards are available with any cherry switch or now with simplified alps switches too!

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Mechanical Keyboard Guide

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