TLa

Some nano aquarium chilllers are just about $200. Jj23, if you have a chance to set it up this way, please report it here with your own review. Maybe with some photos it would be nice as well. The good thing about this setup is that you don't have to worry about condensation because you can set the thermostat as low as about 70-75F which is about room temp. They also offer the accuracy of the thermostat within few degrees so you always know the water temperature of your closed-loop system.

If the computer is just idle, I don't think there will much heat generated.

XFreeRollerX

I read the whole 4 pages here and i got to say... WOW

While i think this is a great idea, as stated before - an added resivoir to increase water volume and eliminate water temperature fluctuations would be really beneficial

For a completely watercooled system, I would estimate around 40-65 oz. of liquid is needed.... add maybe another 40 for 100 oz, maybe someone knows how to calculate how fast water would heat up with the system heat dump... then calculate how much more water would be needed to bring the water temperature delta to maybe .5-1* per hour... as this seems about the same as a decent size aquarium with lights

I figure if it takes maybe a couple liters, you could fabricate an acrylic reservoir similar to Swiftec's Mirco Res... Then mount it under your computer case, kind of like a foot stand for it... Of course it needs some reinforcing to avoid cracking (maybe box the acryllic in a steel/aluminum tube cage, or just painted wood)

I think this is a viable, tryable, and should be attempted experiement. While i would love to - I can probably do this for OCN over the summer as I do have the funds but I am in college, I dont have the time right now


What i would do is build a separate computer, specifically for this project. Probably have someone help me fabricate my "Footprint" resivoir to go under my case, then pick up one of those aquarium chillers (Saw one that was good price, and was quiet enough)

I just am not sure if the chillers have pumps in them... If they do - what is their max PSI? I dont wanna be blowing apart waterblocks !

IF it does not, then I would think I need something like Dual D5 pumps to get decent flow with the long tubing from the chiller


Another issue: portability.... With two units, how easily can this thing move? Is it viable to have some kind of shut off valve system tied onto the hoses and a place to insert a delectable hookup? much like how garden hoses work, except valves on both ends to prevent leaks


If i gather enough $$ after my next build then I may very well attempt this!

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Jj23

Most chiller ive seen didnt have a pump so just use a separate pump, theyre designed to handle strong circulation which has nothing to do with what you will do with a computer

I think you're seeing this more complicated then it is. These chiller basically cold the water they contain. Any pump that would handle a normal water system like the pump that came with my tai chi will do the thing... it won't be that long you can just put the unit beside your computer, or under like you suggest...

XFreeRollerX

Ok well now say water gets so cold it condensates from tubing

i have absolutely no idea how to protect from that

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Jj23

All these chillers are equipped with a thermostat so it will stop at the temperature you set them... and for condensation you isolate the system like you would do with a phase change or anything else

XFreeRollerX

Again, i dont know how to properly insulate, i would have to research it...

But i am really looking into this


Whats a good water temp? like 45-50* Fahrenheit?

I live in Arizona, home of single digit humidity %, single digit dew points, and what we like to call the living OVEN (aka desert)

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Jj23

For the insulation, there's a complete guide available in the Phase Change section of the forum... just do like they do; they cold it at -40 and they succeed so do the same thing for your aquarium chiller

the temperature, you choose it. You may want to pick a temperature where you dont need insulation. This would be a temperature just above the dew point. If you want to calculate the dew point, theres a lot of dew points calculators on google that will take into account humidity and temperature.

but if you insulate correctly, then the dew point is lowered because it's not about the temperature of your liquid, it's all about the temperature at the surface of you insulation surface. so if you have extreme insulation, then the temperature at the external surface of your insulation should be over the dew point, thus you have no condensation. It depends on the material you use to insulate, and the thickness.

XFreeRollerX

ok thanks for the insulation info

and most likely i will have the water around 60*F to avoid condensation untill i can get good insulation materials

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TLa

One point to consider: Most aquarium chillers don't go below room temperature at around 21C. The chiller thermostat just shuts off the chiller unit when it senses the water temp is at specific setting. It's safe to say that you don't have condensation problem in this type of setup.

XFreeRollerX, you brought up a good point about its movability. There will always be 2 tubes coming in and out of PC computer case. So you probably need valves there to isolate the PC system from the chiller and res. unit. Of course, chiller and res unit will also have their own valves otherwise water will be everywhere when you disconnect PC from chiller.

I see where this is going to. Valves are bulky.... unlikely for regular John Smith to implement this kind setup

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deafmetal

Did any of you guys go ahead with the chiller? I ended up putting an "Ice Probe" in a custom made reservoir. Dunno that the TEC probe is going to provide much cooling, but has been a fun side project. Been looking at doing a chiller since I'm already outside my case to a triple radiator.