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Old 07-29-08   #41 (permalink)
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Did any of you guys go ahead with the chiller? I ended up putting an "Ice Probe" in a custom made reservoir. Dunno that the TEC probe is going to provide much cooling, but has been a fun side project. Been looking at doing a chiller since I'm already outside my case to a triple radiator.
What's an Ice Probe or a TEC probe?
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Old 07-29-08   #42 (permalink)
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Google

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_Aquari..._iceprobe.html
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Old 09-06-08   #43 (permalink)
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Well, this is my first post here. I registered when I found this thread on a search of aquarium chillers. I'm in the process of watercooling my qx9650 and Striker II Extreme.

I'm just thinking ahead a little here. I have a swiftech 655 for a pump. My question is how do we match (if we even have to) the minimum flow rates on the chillers. What is the consequence of having a flow rate below what the chiller says is the minimum.

My current plan is to just water cool the cpu and chipsets until I see where this rig takes me and then maybe add a chiller instead of going to 2 loops and additional rads when adding the graphics

I've got a swiftech 320 rad that I will use push/pull fan arrangement.

Any thoughts from you aquarium guys on the flow rate issue (if it is one)?
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Old 09-08-08   #44 (permalink)
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Can't help ya mate. I've been researching aquarium chillers myself, but haven't found one worth spending the $$$ to try yet. I just ordered some new fans and shrouds to do a complete push and pull on my feser 480 quad rad.

Running a QX9650 on a Maximus Formula SE here. About 18c, but I use a Swiftec Peltier waterblock.

Edit: Maybe I can help. I've been running a Swiftec MCP-655 pump for years, and it's rated at ~317 GPH. I'd assume after running through my loop, which also includes and unfortunate reduction from 1/2" ID to 3/8" ID, I'm probably looking at 200 - 250 GPH. Looking at These Chillers that flow rate easily fits into their operating range. And some of them have 1/2" barbs.

Dunno... someone buy one and let us know how it goes. I just want to get to ~70F on my water temp and stay there, I'm almost at 90F now, hopefully my quad radiator/fan/shroud upgrade will bring it down to atleast room temp.
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Old 09-09-08   #45 (permalink)
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Problem with that flow rate is that it is with no pressure on the loop. You may only be running 1.5 -2.0 gpm in the loop itself.

Oddly enough I have been looking at essentially the same chillers that you have been. I think the question I will have to pose at the local aquarium shop is what chiller can handle a constant duty cycle (if any) and what are the consequenses of being below the flow rate. I have learned (I think) that aquarium pumps are sized to be large enough to turn the water 5 times in an hour and I wonder if the flow rate for the chillers is really something similar.

Can't wait to see the the reaction when I tell them I need a chiller for my computer
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Old 09-09-09   #46 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TLa View Post
One point to consider: Most aquarium chillers don't go below room temperature at around 21C. The chiller thermostat just shuts off the chiller unit when it senses the water temp is at specific setting. It's safe to say that you don't have condensation problem in this type of setup.

XFreeRollerX, you brought up a good point about its movability. There will always be 2 tubes coming in and out of PC computer case. So you probably need valves there to isolate the PC system from the chiller and res. unit. Of course, chiller and res unit will also have their own valves otherwise water will be everywhere when you disconnect PC from chiller.

I see where this is going to. Valves are bulky.... unlikely for regular John Smith to implement this kind setup
I work in plastic thermoforming. We use water to cool our tooling. The water line-tooling connections are self closing quick disconnect fittings. Think of an air line fitting but when you pull them apart both sides close off. Ours are in the 2.25"+ range but if fittings like that could be found closer to 1/2" than it would be cake. Valves would not be needed. Although the fittings would hamper flow a bit, so would a ball valve.
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Old 09-09-09   #47 (permalink)
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This chiller: http://www.aquastealth.com/polarbear...umchiller.aspx

would probably do a damn good job! 1/5 HP and set points 41-99 degrees F Not Quit 0 deg. Celcius but still damn good. But It would require a decent pump. My D4 only pumps about 60 GPH with middling pressure. I don't know if adding another D series in the loop would double up or not. Probably need a decent submersible pump. Which would add heat to the loop.
This is a modified version of the same chiller http://www.aquastealth.com/modified15hpchiller.aspx which will allow setting the control to 0 degrees celcius. They specifically did it for Computer cooling.
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Last edited by SeigiSama : 09-09-09 at 07:11 PM
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Old 09-10-09   #48 (permalink)
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I had a thought. What if you were to use one of the chillers I listed above but instead of one loop you Had 2? Like the first loop with a large aquarium pump moving the Coolant out of a large Rez like a inslated fish tank or a big thermos. That pump moves the coolant through the chiller and the right back into the Rez. Then have a smaller pump say a d4 or d5 vario pump coolant from seperate ports through your wc loop and back into the Rez. That way the hot coolant get absorbed into the cold coolant in the Rez and then the chiller won't have to work so hard... Since it's cooling the large mass of water slowly rather than a small mass of water quickly. I'm seriosly thinking about buying one of these...
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Old 09-11-09   #49 (permalink)
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Hmm, Good idea, the issue is insulation. If your large body of water is subambiant, you will waste a lot of heat unless you insulate your res.

I would mod a cooler to be the res to minimize this.
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Old 09-12-09   #50 (permalink)
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Hmm, Good idea, the issue is insulation. If your large body of water is subambiant, you will waste a lot of heat unless you insulate your res.

I would mod a cooler to be the res to minimize this.
Well how about a beverage cooler? Or buy a plastic aquarium and then a metal box that's slightly larger than the aquarium and then fill in the space with insulating foam.
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