Naja002

Agreed, but if I'm going to upgrade the block then I would go with a Heatkiller Cu--that's about $100 with back plate and all. More importantly my setup-via the manifold--is actually parallel to 3 rigs, so I have to pay attention to block restrictions---not so much in and of themselves, but in reference to the other blocks on the overall system. If you are not sure what I mean then check out my other car rad thread linked in the first post and my last post above....The way things are now: all cpus have ApogeeGT, NB=MCW30, 3x Gpus have Obsidians 2x Gpu have MCW60. So, flow restriction to each rig is about the same.....If I start mixing and matching--It's going to-potentially-cause all kinds of issues....

I've had this overall system setup for almost 1 yr now....only the bongs are new. I've learned a lot about it. There's a number of things that I could change for the better and somethings that if I had to do over--I would do a bit differently.

Not yet. I don't have to remove the rads though--just turn off the fans and close the window. The weather hasn't really been good here lately for bongs--high humidity. But I plan on giving it at least a short term spin. It shouldn't make much of a positive difference though--I could be wrong. It's an open loop now, so the closed-loop "equilibrium" really doesn't apply.

But, Yes, I do plan to at least check it out when the weather is better....

gablain

where's the motherboard ?

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Help me improve my English ! Tell me if I make mistakes !

Naja002

In my sig and profile...

DIRTYDUCK

AWWW I understand now...yeah it would help if you put it after the BLOCKS and before the BONG. I am just thinking that maybe your pump is dumping heat into your loop or something. for some reason your Temps are not as good as I woudl expect with all that Bong lol

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Naja002

My initial disinfectant plan:

I have one of these that I'm not using:

Turbo Twist 18w UV



Conveniently, it's already setup in "over-hang" format:

Old Pic:




The UV was initially purchased for the aquatic snakes that I keep and setup to kill pathogens, so the pump is small for a low flow:



This can run 24/7 and pose no risk to myself or others. :up:

Step 2 is a periodic dose of either bleach, vinegar or both. Apparently mixing bleach and white vinegar increases the disinfectant qualities many fold.

Here's a quick read:

Vinegar Increases Killing Power of Bleach--very bottom:

Now there's is no way I could recommend using bleach in a setup like this in an indoor situation. My out-building is just that: an out-building. I don't live out there and generally do not spend a lot of time out there, so it becomes much less of an issue--for me. Additionally, I'm not really looking to apply a shock treatment. We're talking lower levels....like what? A swimming pool or less. I have no intention of pounding this with bleach. Aside from any health hazards are considerations for corroding the items in the building--don't wanna do that! :up:

The upside to mixing: Distilled water is considered neutral, but is really about pH 7.4....still very neutral, but not quite the 7.0 that most folks think it is....
The bleach pH 0f 11-12 is just way too high anyway. Vinegar is an acid, so they help neutralize each other to a degree. I've kept planted tanks and my aquatic snakes in pH as low as 5.7--they love it! My only point is the effect on the blocks, tubing, et al....should be a non-issue.

That particular excerpt "recommends first diluting one cup of household bleach in one gallon of water and then adding one cup of white vinegar." I would guess that I have 5-6 gals of water in this setup these days. So, I'm willing to assume that 1 cup of bleach and 1-2 cups of vinegar would be a reasonable starting point and I think that's what I will try. I just sold off my pH/C02 controllers, so I'll have to whip out the drop kit and check the pH. My water is normally pH 8.0-8.2. Even though vinegar is a disinfectant in itself....that article is focused of the benefits of bleach at a lower pH.

I'll keep reading around and keep putzing around with things and we'll see how it goes....:up:


EDIT:

I emailed Alex Petra about the PT Nuke, ie, Copper(II) sulfate pentahydrate and he says that the Copper(II) sulfate pentahydrate is non-evaporative. That was my instinct and is further supported by Wikipedia:

Copper(II) sulfate

I really hope not to be hitting 650C any time soon.....:


I added 1 cup of bleach and 2 cups of vinegar. Went back out there a little while ago and the scent of bleach was a bit more then I prefer. So, I'm going to have to see how long it lasts. I will probably do a periodic bleach dose and focus more on the vinegar, PT Nuke and silver. So, ATM there's 1 cup bleach, 2 cups white vinegar and 40 drops of PT Nuke in the system. EDIT: I was out there several times today and the bleach smell is gone. So, apparently the chlorine evaporated as it is inclined to do.... Just means that when I do a bleach dose....I'll need to stay out of there for ~24hrs.

For the incoming dust, etc from the fan intakes--I cut some of these filter pads and micro-filter pads to fit inside the bottom of the bongs. Just above the opening here:



They are made for aquarium filters. At the rate of flow plus gravity....there shouldn't be any issues. I'll just need to take them out and clean the periodically. How often? I don't know right now, but I would guess no more then once/month. Micro pad on top and 20 ppi on the bottom.

Naja002

Ok, after swapping some PMs with nub about this and other stuff I decided to make a modification to my bongs. I don't think this is exactly what nub had in mind, but this is what I've come up with. Mind you--it didn't work out quite as well as planned.....

First start with some pvc fittings and pipe, drill and bits, towel, zip ties and a few other odds-n-ends:




Cut the pipe and mount the fittings, and drill some holes. The very top holes (4x 3/32") are for a "spray" to run down the walls, the smaller holes (8x 1/16") are for wicking:





Drill another set of 1/16" holes (8x) a little further down:




I drilled a single 1/16" hole into each cap just so the water in the bottom part of the tube would not get stagnant:




Cut the terry cloth towel to fit. Zip tied it below the top spray holes and over the first set of wicking holes:




The tubes/wicking will extend all the down to/past the fan input area:




Here's a vid of the function. Too many holes and too big. If I would have use less holes and smaller top spray holes--this would have turned out better:



Live and learn. I may fix it, but I'm not really in the mood right now. I have to shut down the rigs et al in order to work on it.

nub

Very cool Please give us some temp updates! Love the pics, very sexy they are

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Naja002

Well, I can tell you this off the top:

The car rad fans have been off for 5 hrs now. Outside temps have increased 21F. The i7 has increased 11-12C. That's what? 4 hrs on the Horizontal Volenti Cooler alone and now ~1 hr on the new bong mod and the HVC. That's not bad at all my friend. Not bad at all!


Do you understand the concept that I was going for? What do ya think? Wicking down the terry cloth with added water running down the walls....

It's bugging me that it's not working right though....

nub

Ya, I like how you did that. No chance of the tube collapsing on you. And it should increase your surface area by a lot - good stuff there.

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Naja002

That's the main issue that I've had with what you described.....I've never really understood how you manage to get the cloth to stay how/where you want it....