Malta Soron

Maybe against oxidation.

Does anyone have results of how much your temps go down if you lap both the IHS and the HS of the CPU cooler?

JacKz5o

Yes, like others said, this is not quitely true, i have taken off 2 IHS from 2 P4 478-pins and the IHS was not soldered to the core, but there might be some 478-pin P4s that are soldered and to just to be save, dont do it :) . (the ones i did it too were given to me by a friend and were already dead)

and also, if you want to lap but don't have the required sandpaper or don't want to go buy it, you can just get a big piece of 400 grid or something and cut it into 2 pieces and rub it on themselves and the grid will double lol.. 400 to 800, then cut it again and rub and 800 to 1600 and so on.. you should try it lol :D.

-JacKz5o

cgrado

looks like something i will have to try on my conroe. or heck, might want to practice on this P4 first. with that and the BT RAMsink trick, that's 10*C. that's a lot. and if i bother to get a bigger fan for my BT, another few degrees. and considering the conroes are supposed to be cooler than my pressie (right?) that would be good.

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Johnny Quest

I lapped my copper heat sink following someone else's directions. He recommend using dish soap and water as lubricant on the sand paper. I think this is so the piece flows over the surface smoothly and you don't "grind" the leading edge more than the center.

The tip on using a sharpie to start was great, which I had that when I did mine. Might be best to color the whole area first, so you know where the high spots are, etc...

The tip to use the sharpie to monitor progress was even better. Both great ideas.

Also, I think the idea with the brasso was great too. Although it occurs to me that you might not want soap, water & brass on your CPU, so maybe those methods are only for lapping Heat Sinks.

Home Depot will not have the 1000+ sandpaper; that's what they use in automotive paint jobs for gloss. But any auto shop should have what you need. I bought mine at NAPA.

When I did my "copper" heat sink, I noticed at some point the metal went from copper brown towards a more silver color. I didn't know if that was normal for copper or not, and I got nervous about whether my copper heat sink was actually copper plated base metal. So I stopped the coarse grit lapping an moved to the "polishing" grits. So the bottom of my Heat Sink is shiny as hell, but you can see pits & whatnot where I could have kept sanding, but I didn't want to take off all the copper plate if that's what it was.

Also, I figured the heat sink is 2 inches square, but the die is less than 1/2 inch square, so most of those pits won't be anywhere near the die anyways so what's the point of making the whole think perfect.

And if someone could, I would like to see some photos of what a higher-end CPU (the ones with the solid surface rather than exposing the die) looks like underneath.

What would happen if you "lapped" the die itself ? Would that kill the CPU.

And finally, if those covers ARE removable, I wonder if there might be some sort of market for manufacturing custom-made covers to replace the ones AMD installs. Maybe make the specs & tolerances tighter, improve the materials conductivity (more copper?) and mount it to the CPU better, if possible. Or even make a heat sink that will fit on the die like they used to.

Course all of this is just wind, cause I have no idea what it looks like under the cover anyways. But it seems like that would be a new area to explore in trying to get CPU temps down. And maybe make some money too.

frosty15

If you aren't removing the IHS, you'll need an area the size of your IHS to be as flat as possible.
It's far easier lapping the whole base than just the centre, if you miss a small area which is in contact to the IHS, it won't be level.

You're right that the contact point (core) is only approx. ½" ², generally the difference in temps can mainly be attributed as to how much/well the IHS makes contact with the core. The thermal paste is applied irregularly, if there is hardly any or too much thermal paste between the IHS and core, the temps will be higher, plus the thermal paste used is prolly the cheapest available.
If you are willing to risk removing your IHS but are a little concerned about the core possibly cracking, you could remove the cheap thermal paste and carefully apply AS5 as you normally would. This should reduce your temps, not as much as running without an IHS, but more than if just left as is.

Here's a pic of a Winnie with it's IHS removed.

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Nevaziah

lovely, as soon as my E6300 gets here, ima lapit!

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CrimsonMango

well... I finally said fzuckit and lapped my 920 Presler like I did with my old 3.0E Prescott, and every heatsink/waterblock that I've ever owned


My Ultra-120 and Storm G5's bases were already lapped to 2500 grit + printer paper, and they needed a good mating surface, so onto the sandpaper the Presler goes!

Ultra-120:
[IMG]http://www.*******.com/sneaky/p3mid1/u120_6.jpg[/IMG]

Storm G5:


3.0E Prescott IHS:




And my 920 Presler:

Before:


Half way through 220 grit:


After 220 grit:


After 600 grit:


After 1200 grit:


After 2500 grit:


After printer paper:


Reflections:


Flatness/Screen test:


Installed:




No true before & after temp results yet - still waiting for the new application of Shin Etsu G-751 to break in



Enjoy!
-JR

voggorb

My scythe ninja seems rather concave. After applying a very thin layer of AS5 to my s478 prescott, and seating the HS, I ran the computer for a while and then took off the HS again. On the Hs surface, the AS5 was a little "smudged" onto the sides, but the middle of the surface was completely clean, proving the bad contact between it and the CPU.

If I lap my HS and CPU, down to let's say 1000 grit, by how much will my temps (idle: 48, load: 64) decrease? Could it decrease by as much as 10C at load? That would be awesome.

CrimsonMango

if you lap both surfaces, your temps should decrease at both idle and load significantly - you shouldn't be seeing more than around 40 idle and 55 load with a scythe

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voggorb

that sounds awesome! just have to go and buy those sandpapers then!

Btw, if you are careful, is it as easy as it sounds like to lap them, or is there a big risk of messing up, if you for example put the wrong pressure on the CPU/IHS when lapping?

And one more question. People have different opinions on whether you should wet the sandpaper or not, and if you should use a few drops of soap when lapping the HS. Am I correct that I should wet the sandpaper for both HS and CPU, but only use soap on the HS?