Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus/EVO Club - Page 143 - Overclock.net

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post #1421 of 6667 Old 03-16-2011, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bananapeal;12759261 
Sorry. Had side off. Also, 70% load while doing folding-GPU. ... ambient's 18-20 or so. so my core reading of 15 shouldn't be ok right now. ...gr.

I've attached an at-load temp picture, this is after 40min of prime95. It shows a 29C core temp and the others in the 40s.

ok by checking with the bios,
temp0 is case: 42C idle
temp1 is cpu: 36C at idle
temp2 is ??? : 42C.

why would the core temps be so low then?

images: hot ~ at load
cold ~ 10 mins after load
precool~ before CM-212 install

Thanks!


My dumb ass had ACC on. Apparently that also turns your sensors off or at least turns them down. 19C core now with odd fluctuations to 16.

It's physically impossible for the cpu temps to be at or below ambient room temps. At the bare minimum they would be at least 3 to 5 C above ambient room temp at idle, but sensors aren't always reliable that low. What matters is your load temps. Fire up something like Prime95, HyperPi, SuperPi, etc. and see what the temps climb to. If they don't go at least 10C over ambient room temps then either the sensors are borked or your software isn't calibrated correctly. Get at least 3 different programs to compare the readouts to see if they all agree within a degree or os. CoreTemp, RealTemp, SpeedFan, and the software that comes with the motherboard are all good to use for this. I'm not that impressed with HWMonitors ability to provide accurate temp readings.

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post #1422 of 6667 Old 03-16-2011, 11:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bananapeal View Post
My dumb ass had ACC on. Apparently that also turns your sensors off or at least turns them down. 19C core now with odd fluctuations to 16.
Well, I don't know for old phenom, but phenom II and Athlon II offer calculated core temps, and are not good. You must check CPU temps for real temp sensor.

For example, my core temps are idling at 0C

It's not a problem with the program, it's really the CPU.
On full load, core temps tend to be 10C lower than CPU temp.

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post #1423 of 6667 Old 03-17-2011, 11:14 AM
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I'm about to put this on , can someone give clearer instructions about the TIM method? I've read what it says at the first post, but that seems vague to me, can someone help? cheers

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post #1424 of 6667 Old 03-17-2011, 01:03 PM
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I'm also going to try this in the next couple of hours. From what I've read, you should first fill in the gaps between the silver-colored areas of the base and the copper pipes and level it out. Everyone seems to have their own opinions on the rest. I'm going to put a vertical line on the center silver area and dots on the two adjacent silver areas.

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post #1425 of 6667 Old 03-17-2011, 01:14 PM
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What makes the Hyper 212+ so desirable?
One of the best things about the 212+ (aside from the price) is that you you don't need to buy anything extra to get excellent cooling. TheBladeMaster fan that comes with it is one of the best you can get for it. Anything that will actually cool better is louder and would only give about a 1C lower temp anyway. You can always pick up a second BladeMaster (not an R4) to run in a push/pull setup. The next step up would be High Speed Yate Loon fans, but the difference isn't worth the additional sound level as far as I'm concerned. A pair of the Medium Speed Yate Loon fans would be quieter, but even in a Push/Pull configuration wouldn't be able to provide as much cooling capacity as the single BladeMaster that comes with the 212+. The regular R4's from Coolermaster don't have as much static pressure and are louder so they aren't as good for this as the stock BladeMaster's or even the High Speed Yate's are, although they would be about as loud. Please note that when used on heatsinks and radiators Static Pressure is as important as CFMs as it's the pressure that forces the air through the fins. CFMs with low pressure like the standard R4's are okay when used as case fans, but they come up short on heatsinks.

CM R4 has 1.3mm H20 rating of static pressure.
CM Blade Master has a 3.9mmH20 rating of static pressure.
YL High Speed has 2.9mm H20 rating of static pressure.

A pair of BladeMaster's running in Push/Pull compared to a single BladeMaster would probably only be about 1 to 2C difference in temps. Unless you are doing some extreme overclocking or your computer is in a very hot climate it probably isn't enough to worry about. I only do it since I am running the Folding@Home SMP client on my systems
which means they run at 100% cpu load 24/7/365. If I wasn't doing that I would only be using a single BladeMaster
on mine.

What fan comes with the Hyper 212+?
This is the actual BladeMaster fan that comes with the 212+. There are other places that carry it though.

What if my motherboard doesn't have enough PWM fan headers to run a pair of fans in PWM mode?
This is a 12" 4-Pin PWM Fan Y-Adapter Power Cable to allow you to run a pair of BladeMasters off of the same PWM fan header on a motherboard so they stay in sync if you use PWM. Even if your mobo does have enough headers, this is still a great way to make sure that they work together in an optimal fashion.

Do I need to buy a different Thermal Interface Material (TIM)?
The ThermalFusion400 TIM that comes with the Hyper 212+ is excellent as well. It's better than anything Arctic Silver makes and within 1C of Arctic Cooling MX2 or MX3 or IC Diamond 7 or 24. The difference between MX-2, MX-3, MX-4, IC Diamond 7 or 24, or any of the other top TIM is about 1C when properly applied. For the most part it has more to do with how one applies the TIM than it does what TIM they use. The problem with Arctic Silver is that it has such a long break in period. It takes 2 weeks for it to properly break in and give optimum results. During that time it requires several periods of the system running for app. 2 hours, then off for 2 hours per day every day for 2 weeks or it never really cures. To top that off it needs to be cleaned off and re-applied every 10 to 12 months. Having to re-apply it wouldn't be so bad if it didn't have that long drawn out break in process. The other TIMS I mentioned along with the CM TIM that comes with the 212+ have a break in period of less than an hour, with most being only a couple of minutes, and that is with continuous running. THAT is what makes Arctic Silver such a poor TIM. Back when Arctic Silver was first introduced it was the best that was available, but that was 10 years or more ago. In the past 5 years or so several other TIM's have easily met or exceeded it's performance with much less work involved rendering AS not worth the time or trouble to use anymore.

How should I apply the TIM?
The Hyper 212+ is a Heatpipe Direct Contact so the two or three line method is normally the best way to go. It depends on the number of heatpipes as to how many lines is required, but the 212+ has 4. Ap42 posted a good guide for this found [THREAD="http://www.overclock.net/12295518-post1058.html"]here in this very thread[/THREAD]. The single drop or line of TIM in the middle rarely works on them.

What about side panel fans with a Hyper 212+?
The chances of being able to mount a fan in the side panel of your case with a Hyper 212+ is somewhere between slim and none. The good news is you don't really need one. At best ll that side panel fan will do if you can mount it is bounce air off of the top of the heatsink (and the sides of the fan housings) which won't have any positive affect on your cpu temps. At the worst the airflow from that side panel fan will disrupt the natural airflow in the case causing the cpu temps to rise. In some cases (puns intended) a fan in the lower side panel position blowing on the graphics cards might help cool them, but that isn't a guarantee. Most of the time all the side panel fans do is make your computer louder. You are normally better off just leaving the fans out of the side panel openings (if they exist) and allow the natural airflow to draw in cool air or expel hot air as needed. It can be worth the time to test it out though if you have a fan to mount there, but I wouldn't go out and buy one just to test with though.

My 212+ moves after I mounted it. Is that wrong?
It depends. If all it does is swivel a bit that is normal. If it rocks then something is wrong. You should take it out of the system, double check that the mounting bracket is attached firmly, then remount the heatsink.

The instructions that came with the 212+ are difficult to understand. Are there any guides that do a better job of explaining how to install it?
Coolermaster did a terrible job on the instructions, especially for AMD systems. They have a video that does a great job for Intel systems, but nothing for AMD. Luckily Hardware Canucks has a guide for AMD users that you can use. With the exception of reversing the backplate the instructions work for an Intel system as well.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSq_xbxsm7Q&feature=player_embedded[/ame]

How does the 212+ stack up against a high end air cooler like a Noctua NH-D14, ThermalRight Venomous -X, Megahalems, etc.
The 212+ is one of, if not the best bang for your buck cpu air coolers available, often available for $20 to $25. The NH-D14 and other high end cpu air coolers run $60 to $80 and up. While they will cool better, it won't be worth it to some people. Baldy did a comparison of a 212+ to a NH-D14. That should give you some idea on how much additional cooling you would get by spending 2 to 3 times as much money. If you need the absolute best air cooling solution and have the funds to do so then by all means go with one of the top units like the NH-D14. But for a $20 to $25 outlay you simply can NOT beat a 212+ as there is absolutely nothing that works as well for that kind of money.
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post #1426 of 6667 Old 03-17-2011, 01:46 PM
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ok wooh, i managed to put it after sum trying :/, one question, i'v got another fan that i want to put, which directions should i put both in, im guessing the one at the back should be exhaust, so out... what about the other side fan? the one towards the RAM.. thanks

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post #1427 of 6667 Old 03-17-2011, 01:51 PM
 
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If somebody could post a picture of what the TIM should look like when applied, that would be great. And not the picture from the benchmarkreviews site, I mean a picture of the 212+ itself.

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post #1428 of 6667 Old 03-17-2011, 01:53 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kikosiko;12769080 
ok wooh, i managed to put it after sum trying :/, one question, i'v got another fan that i want to put, which directions should i put both in, im guessing the one at the back should be exhaust, so out... what about the other side fan? the one towards the RAM.. thanks

If your case is like most, intake in front exhaust out back, then you should setup your fans to work with the flow.


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post #1429 of 6667 Old 03-17-2011, 02:12 PM
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Edit: Posted twice.

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post #1430 of 6667 Old 03-17-2011, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PapaSmurf;12768721 
Do I need to buy a different Thermal Interface Material (TIM)?
The ThermalFusion400 TIM that comes with the Hyper 212+ is excellent as well. It's better than anything Arctic Silver makes and within 1C of Arctic Cooling MX2 or MX3 or IC Diamond 7 or 24. The difference between MX-2, MX-3, MX-4, IC Diamond 7 or 24, or any of the other top TIM is about 1C when properly applied. For the most part it has more to do with how one applies the TIM than it does what TIM they use. The problem with Arctic Silver is that it has such a long break in period. It takes 2 weeks for it to properly break in and give optimum results. During that time it requires several periods of the system running for app. 2 hours, then off for 2 hours per day every day for 2 weeks or it never really cures. To top that off it needs to be cleaned off and re-applied every 10 to 12 months. Having to re-apply it wouldn't be so bad if it didn't have that long drawn out break in process. The other TIMS I mentioned along with the CM TIM that comes with the 212+ have a break in period of less than an hour, with most being only a couple of minutes, and that is with continuous running. THAT is what makes Arctic Silver such a poor TIM. Back when Arctic Silver was first introduced it was the best that was available, but that was 10 years or more ago. In the past 5 years or so several other TIM's have easily met or exceeded it's performance with much less work involved rendering AS not worth the time or trouble to use anymore.

How should I apply the TIM?
The Hyper 212+ is a Heatpipe Direct Contact so the two or three line method is normally the best way to go. It depends on the number of heatpipes as to how many lines is required, but the 212+ has 4. See the bottom method on this guide. The single drop or line of TIM in the middle rarely works on them.

That said, I did some experimenting with my Hyper 212+'s and am having my best results using a credit card to cram a bit into the crevices then spreading a light coat over the entire surface of the heatsink base and not putting any directly on the cpu's IHS. Cramming some into the crevices between the heat pipes and the heatsink base surface is the key though. If you don't you tend to get air bubbles that prevent optimal heat transfer.

Thanks for that, I have been looking for information on the included TIM for ages. +Rep

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