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post #131 of 194 Old 03-21-2008, 11:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Well, I found a nice little file that was a perfect fit for the widest of my grooves. (yeah, they weren't all even as it turns out). That really did the trick for the "heavy lifting" portion of the clean-up.

Ice Owl, I'm not understanding your last post I don't think?

Here's what I'm doing this afternoon (first pic is a repost of the one above):






(this isn't a blurry version of the last picture -- that feathered edge to the glazing putty, primer, and various fillers is what you are aiming for here)




Steps:
  • PIC 1: apply a light coat of primer. This serves as a guide coat and helps identify problems with your initial body work. (A more detailed and effective method of doing this is explained a few posts down by Ice Owl)
  • PIC 2: scuff on the primer a bit with a block or a file to show off the highs and lows that need attention. (where the primer goes first and fast, you have a high. where it never seems to want to sand off, you have a low)
  • PIC 2: after things are planed down as far as is comfortable, go back and fill with the glazing putty. I cut up a spreader to fit into my grooves to help facilitate this. As mentioned by Ice Owl and Repo, a razor blade will also work very well for this (this is the point at which that picture was taken)
  • PIC 3: go back with paper and sand off the putty, using blocks wherever possible. the putty will stay in the pinholes, deeper scratches, etc.
  • PIC 4: prime it again this time with a heavier coat to "fill" as Ice Owl explains in the post below this
  • repeat above as necessary


If anyone has any *tricks* for me that I'm missing, I'm all ears. I was never a body shop guy. I just dabbled a bit with it in my auto-detail shop. (updated this post to try and reflect some of the great tips given below -- thanks Repo Man and Ice Owl!)

(there's one for you Repo. imagine the fisheye and nib possibilities painting inside a full function detail shop -- uh huh. I stuck to small patch projects and spent a LOT of time sanding. )

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post #132 of 194 Old 03-21-2008, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warfarin88 View Post
Well, I found a nice little file that was a perfect fit for the widest of my grooves. (yeah, they weren't all even as it turns out). That really did the trick for the "heavy lifting" portion of the clean-up.

Ice Owl, I'm not understanding your last post I don't think?

Here's what I'm doing this afternoon:



Steps:
  • scuff on the primer a bit with a block or a file to show off the highs and lows that need attention. (where the primer goes first and fast, you have a high. where it never seems to want to sand off, you have a low)
  • after things are planed down as far as I feel comfortable, go back and fill with the glazing putty. I cut up a spreader to fit into my grooves to help facilitate this. (this is the point at which that picture was taken)
  • go back with paper and sand off the putty, using blocks wherever possible. the putty will stay in the pinholes, deeper scratches, etc.
  • prime it again, and then start all over. repeat until satisfied.


If anyone has any *tricks* for me that I'm missing, I'm all ears. I was never a body shop guy. I just dabbled a bit with it in my auto-detail shop.

(there's one for you Repo. imagine the fisheye and nib possibilities painting inside a full function detail shop -- uh huh. I stuck to small patch projects and spent a LOT of time sanding. )
Only useful tip I have is a straight blade razor. You can use it to spread the putty in the seams and it leaves a VERY even pass with not much excess to sand off.

OT: OH boy do I know about fisheyes! I was one of two buffers at my last body shop and we had some crappy painters. We sanded runs/drips/trash out of EVERY car that got painted. I know the pain bruddah! LOL



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post #133 of 194 Old 03-21-2008, 11:33 AM
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I was saying that if the putty doesn't fill the pin holes use the highbuild primer to fill them. Just treat it like a sprayable bondo.

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post #134 of 194 Old 03-21-2008, 11:41 AM
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Also here is a great way to find high/low spots. Take a fast drying spray paint and mist it on the piece you are trying to find high/low spots, let it dry and sand. Not a full coat just a very very light mist. You will see exactly where your high and low spots are after a light sanding. Try to use a highly visible color, if part is grey use red or blue. I hope this makes sense it works like a charm though.

*sorry for the double post*
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post #135 of 194 Old 03-21-2008, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ice_owl View Post
Also here is a great way to find high/low spots. Take a fast drying spray paint and mist it on the piece you are trying to find high/low spots, let it dry and sand. Not a full coat just a very very light mist. You will see exactly where your high and low spots are after a light sanding. Try to use a highly visible color, if part is grey use red or blue. I hope this makes sense it works like a charm though.

*sorry for the double post*
+ for that, I forgot a/b that. That is an extremely good way to find them! We've used that at the shop for large areas (truck bedsides etc) where the carbon/graphite dust just isn't enough. Good tip!



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The life and continuance of Syrillian's Silentium: Repo and Syrillian's Silentium


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post #136 of 194 Old 03-21-2008, 11:51 AM - Thread Starter
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ahhh OK Ice Owl.

Yeah, I'm leaning on it (the fill qualities of the primer) quite a bit, but the pictures probably aren't doing justice to just how nasty my dremel work was in those channels.

The problem is that they are deeper than the actual plastic depth. I bolstered up the backside with fiberglass in anticipation of this, but depending on where I am, I could be sanding into abs plastic, fiberglass filler, jb weld epoxy, superglue, or even sometimes just plain air (if I had a bubble). It's tough pretty tough to sand or file a smooth finish out of that mess. The glazing putty helped me "level the playing field" .. so to speak. Primer coat or three going on now. I'm hoping that will wrap up the worst of it.

Also, from what I can tell, this Dupli-Color primer does fill very well, but sands kind of obnoxiously. It pretty much instantly clogged my 600 grit dry. I'm going to try the next pass wet and see if that doesn't help any.


EDIT: (on the second post) yeah. guide coat is what I was taught it was called. That does work well, especially on larger contours and areas.

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post #137 of 194 Old 03-21-2008, 11:56 AM
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Woah, all way over my head. I'm a geek, the most painting I did was on models and a crappy job it was, LOL. This all looks very good.

Warfarin: Dude, PLEASE go with the full gloss, that would look wicked awesome. Keep up the good work (and the patience).

This is the best way to do a build I think. Nice and slow so you don't mess up. You have a good process (no pun intended prosess) here Warfarin, quite an example for a first build.


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post #138 of 194 Old 03-21-2008, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warfarin88 View Post
ahhh OK Ice Owl.

Yeah, I'm leaning on it (the fill qualities of the primer) quite a bit, but the pictures probably aren't doing justice to just how nasty my dremel work was in those channels.

The problem is that they are deeper than the actual plastic depth. I bolstered up the backside with fiberglass in anticipation of this, but depending on where I am, I could be sanding into abs plastic, fiberglass filler, jb weld epoxy, superglue, or even sometimes just plain air (if I had a bubble). It's tough pretty tough to sand or file a smooth finish out of that mess. The glazing putty helped me "level the playing field" .. so to speak. Primer coat or three going on now. I'm hoping that will wrap up the worst of it.

Also, from what I can tell, this Dupli-Color primer does fill very well, but sands kind of obnoxiously. It pretty much instantly clogged my 600 grit dry. I'm going to try the next pass wet and see if that doesn't help any.


EDIT: (on the second post) yeah. guide coat is what I was taught it was called. That does work well, especially on larger contours and areas.
I had the same issues with my primer clogging my paper, and I was using 400grit! I think its just rattle can primers

Edit: Found a pic of what I used, it was dupli-color as well. Was yours like this?



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post #139 of 194 Old 03-21-2008, 12:09 PM
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How long you letting the primer dry? Could be the reason its clogging is that its not fully dryin..Lota of time in a paint shop here..lol Also humid days will mess w/the primers drying time..Just me 2 cents..
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post #140 of 194 Old 03-21-2008, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
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How long you letting the primer dry? Could be the reason its clogging is that its not fully dryin..Lota of time in a paint shop here..lol
I had let mine dry a/b 2 days



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