[Official] Case Labs Owners Club - Page 1206 - Overclock.net

Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #12051 of 22569 Old 04-19-2015, 11:51 AM
Waterbug
 
Gabrielzm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: São Paulo
Posts: 4,059
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 399
Quote:
Originally Posted by ALT F4 View Post

Your rig is looking awesome biggrin.gif
I've answered most of those questions throughout my last several posts. Long story short this room is a solid ~21C to ~23C depending if the air conditioner is on or off. Water temperature will idle at ~29C to ~31C depending on room temp, under load I'm seeing water temp on gpu upwards to ~39C. The room is still cool and you can feel the heat of the furnace errr radiators biggrin.gif

I should have videod with the reservoir half full so all could see what I've been mentioning. It's nowhere near a bad flow which is why you would end up confused on why the numbers don't add up frown.gif Regardless, when the amd cards are released and I decide what to do with the rest of my rig I might double up on the pumps and call it a day. Next time I test I'm going to use the cards stock bios to see if the 0.05v will make much of a difference, bummer I didn't have enough fittings to test parallel on the gpu loop.


Yeah even the idle temps seems quite off. You should be getting something like 1-3 degrees over ambient. Perhaps the only way to tell is to take the loop apart. So you do not have the flow meter on it correct?
ALT F4 likes this.
Gabrielzm is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #12052 of 22569 Old 04-19-2015, 04:38 PM
New to Overclock.net
 
Anateus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Poland
Posts: 1,761
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 58
Have any of you tried to remove the Case Labs logo from the front plate? I must get rid of it for some time, it would be reapplied later.
Anateus is online now  
post #12053 of 22569 Old 04-19-2015, 05:09 PM
Overclocker
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 1,540
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 78
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

I looked at what pics of your build I could find, and didn't see anything that jumped right out that looked suspect . . .

The acrylic T on the pump outlet is pretty restrictive, I always try to use a triple rotary 90 out of a pump when I need a 90, and then use the straight thru passages of T's for the main flow direction.

I'm not a fan of the type of 90's you have in some locations, particularly the in and out of the GPU bridge.


One thing that you can't see externally, but need to watch for as you build, particularly if you're using fittings from multiple sources, is that some are absolute disasters as far as flow capability . . .

In the pic below, the 45 on the left is a Bitspower, the 45 on the right is some other POS brand, and the M to F rotary in the middle is also some POS brand.

Look at the bore diameters . . . compared to the Bitspower, the others might as well be pinholes.

Just one POS fitting like those two, can trash the flow for the whole loop.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


The other thing to watch for as you build, is that some fittings have a longer male thread than others, and some fittings have a very short female thread, that if you use a long male thread into it, can restrict the flow markedly. . . . FC Terminals on GPU blocks would be an obvious example, but surely isn't the only example.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


Tearing everything down to inspect stuff is probably the last thing you want to do, but if you fail to get acceptable temp results, you may have to just bite the bullet.

Darlene
Told you the back was a disaster smile.gif temporary but still cringe worthy overall.
The most I did was check practically every fitting since I swapped things around, I'll only be able to clean inside the gpu block when I get new cards or install the rigid tubing, I'll get rid of the terminal and go parallel at that point.
Safe to say I'd need 2 pumps in each loop to run at the optimal level, even when I tidy things up and install the rigid tubing, there is going to be a lot of restriction because of the runs and aesthetics, but at that point pump speed won't matter
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gabrielzm View Post

Yeah even the idle temps seems quite off. You should be getting something like 1-3 degrees over ambient. Perhaps the only way to tell is to take the loop apart. So you do not have the flow meter on it correct?
Maybe on stock settings temps would probably be a bit lower tongue.gif
You have 10 posts per page don't you? tongue.gif There is like a dozen posts of me, I do not have a flow meter, loop is temporary, definitely right about the loop though, I need to tear it apart.

This is more of my fault guys, I appreciate you all helping me try to troubleshoot and/or think outside the box. Since I've been putting off the upgrade on the tubing and video cards(not by choice) I keep trying to rule out that nothing is clogging cpu or gpu block and for all I know a fitting could of flaked up and easily started a nice nest inside the microchannels. I will go back and +rep you all for taking the time to help me. thumb.gif

Edit - Just gave it another spin, stock bios the water won't break 37.5C sucks I can't test parallel on one pump before eventually tearing it all down
ALT F4 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #12054 of 22569 Old 04-19-2015, 06:20 PM
WaterCooler
 
Newtocooling's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: North East
Posts: 734
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 37
I wanted to just post a few picks from my build log to show my appreciation to Caselabs for such an awesome case!








Testing low light
Newtocooling is offline  
post #12055 of 22569 Old 04-19-2015, 06:22 PM
EKWB Forum Support Representative
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Quebec, Canada
Posts: 4,660
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 279
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anateus View Post

Have any of you tried to remove the Case Labs logo from the front plate? I must get rid of it for some time, it would be reapplied later.

I did it on my SM8 when I transformed it from regular ATX to reverse ATX.

Slowly remove it with a razor blade or an X-Acto blade by gently sliding it under it. I didn't scratch the case and the badge was in perfect shape and still had a good amount of stickyness. So I just reapplied it and it was done.
akira749 is offline  
post #12056 of 22569 Old 04-19-2015, 06:27 PM
New to Overclock.net
 
Anateus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Poland
Posts: 1,761
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by akira749 View Post

I did it on my SM8 when I transformed it from regular ATX to reverse ATX.

Slowly remove it with a razor blade or an X-Acto blade by gently sliding it under it. I didn't scratch the case and the badge was in perfect shape and still had a good amount of stickyness. So I just reapplied it and it was done.

Was there any visible spot left after you removed it? Just want to make sure there will be no sign of it for some time.
Anateus is online now  
post #12057 of 22569 Old 04-19-2015, 06:29 PM
EKWB Forum Support Representative
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Quebec, Canada
Posts: 4,660
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 279
akira749 is offline  
post #12058 of 22569 Old 04-19-2015, 10:07 PM
Folding Fanatic
 
NKrader's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 2,925
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 106
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newtocooling View Post

I wanted to just post a few picks from my build log to show my appreciation to Caselabs for such an awesome case! Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)







Testing low light

[Build Log] - Pizza Under the Sea - SuperNAS - Caselabs/Seasonic/Supermicro
NKrader is offline  
post #12059 of 22569 Old 04-20-2015, 03:25 AM
PC Gamer
 
Wiz766's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Seattle
Posts: 2,893
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 64
If someone on here with an S3 wants to do me a solid. I am looking for the distance to what would be the die of a reference GPU and the top or bottom of a 120.2 in the flex bay. Thinking of going the ghetto route with cooling my Titan X with a Kraken G10 and H105.
Dont want to dump the money into a custom loop until I EAS from the Marine Corps but can't stand how loud the stock cooler is.

The H105s pump-to-rad is 12.5" so I want to make sure it will fit before I buy it.
Sorry, I am at the office and PC is torn apart now.

"You are immortal until you die" - Sergeant Ski
Case History: (Click to show)
GROne--650D--Phantom 530--Air 540--Enthoo Primo--350D--Air 540--TJ08E--Parvum S2.0--Mercury S8--Mercury S3(Jinora)--Nova X2M (N/A)
Wiz766 is offline  
post #12060 of 22569 Old 04-20-2015, 11:23 AM
WaterCooler
 
SynchroSCP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Northern CO
Posts: 287
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 19
So from another project that has fallen off I have a Magicool Hexa 720 radiator on the way, would it be possible to adapt that into the top of a mercury S5 somehow? I currently have the extended top and 360 mount in my S5, looks like the rad would fit and would love to figure out a way to incorporate this into my loop.

Heres a pic of the rad...
SynchroSCP is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off