TEC Chill Box Chamber Build log - Page 5 - Overclock.net

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post #41 of 1683 Old 01-06-2016, 10:16 PM
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I thought we are getting vaccum chanbers or ln2 something like that.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pOYgdQp4euc
If we control the vaccum chanber, then we can actually just run plain coolant with nothing. Leave all of the cooling done by the vaccum chamber

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post #42 of 1683 Old 01-06-2016, 10:18 PM - Thread Starter
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I am going to use a vacuum chamber, but I am using it as a way of preventing condensation on my blocks and hardware when I run freezing coolant through them.
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post #43 of 1683 Old 01-06-2016, 10:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toolmaker03 View Post

I am going to use a vacuum chamber, but I am using it as a way of preventing condensation on my blocks and hardware when I run freezing coolant through them.
Well, I have not much idea of how its going to work.

But I think you want to make sure that none of that water iceing up is going to happen which may ice up your water or even cause phsycal damage to your components. I was suddenly thinking would there be any pressure once a vaccum is formed. Will the motherboard snap due to pressure?

Water in vacum chanber shoujld have the effect of being cooled down. So yeah. I just wounder if it will be too cold. Cold on cold

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post #44 of 1683 Old 01-06-2016, 10:24 PM - Thread Starter
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I have already tested that.
http://imgur.com/a/cFTGu
this little guy was my first test box for a vacuum chamber this box had two CPU blocks and a 100W TEC in it and I would vacuum it down to see how the environment would affect the TEC.
it changed nothing about how it functioned, but it was a good way for me to find out.
I did the same thing with a motherboard, I placed one in a larger chest then vacuumed it down, I released the vacuum, reinstalled the motherboard, and it worked fine, after that I was ready for my first live run, meaning I would try to power up a motherboard while under a vacuum. that test went fine as well I had no issues starting a mother board up while under a vacuum.
then I tried running cold coolant through the vacuum chamber to see if condensation would occur, that is how I figured out that I needed to preform a chamber dry, before I started any of my hardware at first I had ice forming on the lines and the blocks it took about 10 days before the chamber was dry enough that neither ice or water could form on the lines and blocks. once the chamber was dry, and I could run cold coolant through it all day without any condensation, or ice forming on the lines or blocks, at this point I was ready to start the system up for the first time. this too worked great, without too many issues.
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post #45 of 1683 Old 01-06-2016, 10:34 PM
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Well you'd possibly want to leave the vaccum chamber on all day? I would hundred bucks extra only every month bills for a constant 700W power usage.

Anyways, not insulateing your components and going subzero is not facing the plorbems dircectly I reckon.
But facing it in diffrent ways which are more expensive and complex EG using vaccum computer case or vacum chamber

Anotherway to face the condensation plorbem is to leave the vaccum on and turn off your peltiers. Wait till the water heats up then fully shut down thumb.gif

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post #46 of 1683 Old 01-07-2016, 11:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thick8 View Post

It's used as a wire welding gas as well to eliminate oxidization of the weld. Pretty easy to get.
The problem isn't the the space between the cable and the box. It's between the strands of the wires themselves. Ideally you would want each wire to be a single (thicker) strand wire where it enters the box. Depending on how many wires you have running into the box this could be a PITA. It might even be overkill but my wife says that's my middle name.

I might have to look into more wireless components. Heck, if a person had the funds the only thing needing to go though the wall of the box would be the evaprator hoses and the power cord.


ok I have really thought about what I think you are asking here.
how do I seal up the trouble spots in the wire to get the chamber to hold a vacuum?
as I stated I only had two spots in my test build that gave me any trouble but this is exactly what I did to fix the leak.
to find the leak for me was easy, I smoke so all I did was blow smoke in the area I thought might be leaking and watch to see where the smoke was being sucked into.
there where two bad wires crimps where the wire attached to the pin inside the connector so I removed the pin from the connector soldered the end of the wire to the pin, by doing this I basically made the end of that wire a solid core wire at the end of it. I put the pin back into the connector and resealed the end of the connector with flex seal.

to seal most of the wire in the connectors was also easy for me, I will try to explain this process the best I can.
ok I have two 1/4 turn valves on my vacuum pump so that I can adjust the amount of suction I put onto any chamber.
when I first went to seal the connectors I had adjusted the valves so that there was a constant vacuum on the chamber but not much, as it was sucking air in from all over the place.
understand the holes that we are talking about here are like .001 in size I could literality seal a hole that size with a drop of oil, true the constant vacuum would eventually pull the oil all the way through the wire and I would be left with the same issue of it leaking, but it would seal it for a short time.
so as I sprayed the flex seal onto the connectors the amount of vacuum on the chamber would rise, and I would adjust my valves to lower the amount of suction as I finished the last connector, the vacuum on the chamber shot way up, so I turned the vacuum pump off and released all the vacuum that was on the chamber, then I let it set for 3 days to make sure the flex seal was dry.
so to summarize I used the vacuum to suck some liquid rubber up in between all the little strands of wire.
it did not work perfectly, but it did seal up most of them right off.
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post #47 of 1683 Old 01-08-2016, 06:58 PM - Thread Starter
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post #48 of 1683 Old 01-09-2016, 10:40 AM - Thread Starter
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http://imgur.com/a/cN1cy
I drilled all the T's on the res setup to allow for greater flow rates.
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post #49 of 1683 Old 01-09-2016, 12:47 PM - Thread Starter
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ok so I got some of my fittings, and the rest of the wire extensions for the section of wire that goes through the chest, I guess I should explain that.
ok so for all my case power supply wiring, it is in 3 sections, first there are the wire extensions that plug directly in to the power supply, and travel to another set of wire extensions just outside the chest, the second section of wire extensions, are only 12" long, and go through the wall of the chest only, and the final section is the wire that comes with the modular power supply I have, and they run from the 12" extensions that run through the wall of the chest, to the motherboard power connections and the video cards power connections. the 20 pin connections are also done in three sections. one section comes off the motherboard, the second section goes through the wall of the chest, and the last section is the reset and power switches themselves. (CLR CMOS pin's are connected to a switch that is also in three sections)
the video card cables that run to the monitors, are done in two sections, one section goes from the video card to the outside of the chest, and the second section from the outside of the chest to the monitor, the USB cables are done in two sections, the internet cable is done in two sections, and finally the sata cable is done in one section, from the motherboard connection all the way out of the chest to the SSD's and DVD drives.
I think that covers all the wire let me know if I missed something?
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post #50 of 1683 Old 01-09-2016, 12:58 PM
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I wounder how much time you spend building this computer a day?
Have we got all of the parts and its just a matter of time building the computer?

Overcloking is about the passion, not about how much you clock
Overclocking is not about the pefromance gains, it is about the passion
Overclocking is about the Fun, Enjoyment and Passion

Pushing Voltages And Lower Tempertures Makes You The Overclocking Champion
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