Alphacool UT 360 vs XT45 on Switch 810 - Overclock.net

Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 16 Old 03-15-2013, 02:07 PM - Thread Starter
 
bustacap22's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 804
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 49
Whats up OCN....ordering my h20 parts and seeking counsel from OCN members. Cooling i7 3930k and 2 7970.

h20 parts already acquired:

2 EK Gpu blocks
EK Bridge (parallel)
Alphacool UT 240 rad w/ Noiseblocker eloop fans


Pump I plan to use is MCP655.

My dilemma is I currently have ASUS Rampage IV Extreme MOBO and want to purchase UT 360 but will only be able to use fans in "PULL" due to spacing issues. So my questions is:

UT 360 in (PULL) or XT 360 in (PUSH/PULL). Am I to believe that I should get better temps with XT360 in P/P or UT360 in PULL. Thoughts?????
bustacap22 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 16 Old 03-15-2013, 09:23 PM
Overclocker
 
skyhigh2004's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Saint Cloud MN
Posts: 244
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by bustacap22 View Post

Whats up OCN....ordering my h20 parts and seeking counsel from OCN members. Cooling i7 3930k and 2 7970.

h20 parts already acquired:

2 EK Gpu blocks
EK Bridge (parallel)
Alphacool UT 240 rad w/ Noiseblocker eloop fans


Pump I plan to use is MCP655.

My dilemma is I currently have ASUS Rampage IV Extreme MOBO and want to purchase UT 360 but will only be able to use fans in "PULL" due to spacing issues. So my questions is:

UT 360 in (PULL) or XT 360 in (PUSH/PULL). Am I to believe that I should get better temps with XT360 in P/P or UT360 in PULL. Thoughts?????

I have a switch 810 and just switched my 420mm UT60 rad in the top with pull for a 420mm XT45 with push/pull. I saw on average 3-4 degrees C decrease in my coolant temp. I also removed a lot of the restriction in the roof for air flow. I also saw a coolant temp decrease by removing my bottom UT60 240mm rad as it just blew hot air into my top rad. I now have a UT60 140mm rad in the front as an exhaust in push/pull and the XT45 in the roof with push/pull and get much better temps than with a 240 in the floor and UT60 in pull in the roof.

ahavenuq.jpg

za2epevy.jpg
skyhigh2004 is offline  
post #3 of 16 Old 03-15-2013, 10:03 PM
Who Watches the Watchmen?
 
nleksan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Ohio
Posts: 5,505
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 661
I would get the XT45 420, having the RIVE myself and a Switch, the 420 will fit in push pull without an issue.

"The world breaks everyone and afterward many are strong at the broken places"Ernest Hemingway
sniper.gifS.T.A.L.K.E.R FAN CLUB aaskull.gif

~*~ THE TAO OF BACKUP ~*~

PLEASE DOUBLE-CHECK ANY ANSWERS I MAY PROVIDE, AS I AM HUMAN AND QUITE FALLIBLE
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Samsung Galaxy Nexus - Rooted & Running JBSourcery FINAL & LeanKernel Experimental
nleksan is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 16 Old 03-16-2013, 07:19 AM - Thread Starter
 
bustacap22's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 804
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by nleksan View Post

I would get the XT45 420, having the RIVE myself and a Switch, the 420 will fit in push pull without an issue.

Whats your thoughts on the Black Ice 420 Rads GTX extreme or SR 1. NO modding needed for the Switch 810. Plus both GTX and SR1 are 54mm thick. I believe that with these rads, push/pull can be achieved with RIVE MOBO. But with the low FPI on the SR1 (9 FPI), I hear that push/pull is not needed with this specific RAD. The GTX 420 (20FPI) would benefit from push/pull, however I hear that this specific RAD doesn't play well with others due to its restriction. Obviously, I am going for plenty of headroom and want the best temp possible. Your thoughts...
bustacap22 is offline  
post #5 of 16 Old 03-16-2013, 06:48 PM
Who Watches the Watchmen?
 
nleksan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Ohio
Posts: 5,505
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 661
Quote:
Originally Posted by bustacap22 View Post

Whats your thoughts on the Black Ice 420 Rads GTX extreme or SR 1. NO modding needed for the Switch 810. Plus both GTX and SR1 are 54mm thick. I believe that with these rads, push/pull can be achieved with RIVE MOBO. But with the low FPI on the SR1 (9 FPI), I hear that push/pull is not needed with this specific RAD. The GTX 420 (20FPI) would benefit from push/pull, however I hear that this specific RAD doesn't play well with others due to its restriction. Obviously, I am going for plenty of headroom and want the best temp possible. Your thoughts...

First, you're no longer restricted to "HWL ONLY" if you don't want to mod. The revised top panel (Gunmetal and Matte Black versions introduced this) has "slots" for the 140mm fan screws allowing 15mm OR 20mm rad spacing for the 140-based rads. biggrin.gif

HardwareLabs radiators (Black Ice) are probably the best-finished, aside from Watercool, that you can get. The paint is impeccable, and they just look really darn pretty wink.gif However, you PAY for that pretty paint and for the name, as they are the priciest radiators, next to Watercool.
I have less experience with them than I do with Alphacool, XSPC, or a few others, but here are my impressions:
- The GTX combines high fin density (19-20fpi) with a thick profile (54mm), allowing for excellent cooling potential but requiring SIGNIFICANT fan power! You absolutely want to be running push-pull with this radiator, and ideally with 38mm-thick fans. Bgears Blasters are the best 140mm rad fans I've used, and even they aren't quite powerful enough to extract everything that the 140-version GTX has to give (in push-pull). It also scales really poorly with slower fan speeds, so you will likely end up with 2000rpm+ fans running push-pull to make the rad perform how it should.
- The SR1 is indeed optimized for lower-speed fans, but it is also thick; like ANY radiator, it benefits from push-pull fans. Push Pull is worth a 15-30% performance increase, regardless of the radiator (I have never seen it NOT benefit), and especially true for thicker rads regardless of fin density.

All-in-all, the Alphacool UT60 and XT45 perform equivalently or better than the HWL radiators do, but cost significantly less despite the fact that they are made with ~2x as much copper... Sure the NexXxoS rads aren't as perfectly finished, but unless you enter your radiators into beauty pageants it doesn't really matter as they (Alphacool) are perfectly acceptable in terms of finish.
The Alphacool rads also scale much better over a far wider range of fan speeds than the HWL rads do, which tend to be more specialized. An example of this is my running my UT60 240 with 4x Koolance 2600rpm fans in push-pull (5.4mmH2O and 106CFM each), and seeing a linear gain in cooling relative to fan speed. I will be adding a pair of 15-20mm Shrouds on the push side and 7mm shrouds on the pull side in the next few weeks to see if it performs any differently, but also because they look cool lol.


Regardless of which rad you choose, I really really suggest getting a 420 over a 360 and using push-pull instead of just one or the other; you get slightly more surface area than a 480, fewer dead-zones from the fans, and you take advantage of the space that you have much more fully.

"The world breaks everyone and afterward many are strong at the broken places"Ernest Hemingway
sniper.gifS.T.A.L.K.E.R FAN CLUB aaskull.gif

~*~ THE TAO OF BACKUP ~*~

PLEASE DOUBLE-CHECK ANY ANSWERS I MAY PROVIDE, AS I AM HUMAN AND QUITE FALLIBLE
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Samsung Galaxy Nexus - Rooted & Running JBSourcery FINAL & LeanKernel Experimental
nleksan is offline  
post #6 of 16 Old 03-16-2013, 06:56 PM
 
Rickles's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 4,256
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 157
If I were to get into water cooling again I would go for quiet way before I would go strict performance. Nleksan is spot on though.

You can't preview an empty signature body.

[NVIDIA GTX 980 Ti Owner's Club]
Rickles is offline  
post #7 of 16 Old 03-16-2013, 09:17 PM - Thread Starter
 
bustacap22's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 804
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by nleksan View Post

First, you're no longer restricted to "HWL ONLY" if you don't want to mod. The revised top panel (Gunmetal and Matte Black versions introduced this) has "slots" for the 140mm fan screws allowing 15mm OR 20mm rad spacing for the 140-based rads. biggrin.gif

HardwareLabs radiators (Black Ice) are probably the best-finished, aside from Watercool, that you can get. The paint is impeccable, and they just look really darn pretty wink.gif However, you PAY for that pretty paint and for the name, as they are the priciest radiators, next to Watercool.
I have less experience with them than I do with Alphacool, XSPC, or a few others, but here are my impressions:
- The GTX combines high fin density (19-20fpi) with a thick profile (54mm), allowing for excellent cooling potential but requiring SIGNIFICANT fan power! You absolutely want to be running push-pull with this radiator, and ideally with 38mm-thick fans. Bgears Blasters are the best 140mm rad fans I've used, and even they aren't quite powerful enough to extract everything that the 140-version GTX has to give (in push-pull). It also scales really poorly with slower fan speeds, so you will likely end up with 2000rpm+ fans running push-pull to make the rad perform how it should.
- The SR1 is indeed optimized for lower-speed fans, but it is also thick; like ANY radiator, it benefits from push-pull fans. Push Pull is worth a 15-30% performance increase, regardless of the radiator (I have never seen it NOT benefit), and especially true for thicker rads regardless of fin density.

All-in-all, the Alphacool UT60 and XT45 perform equivalently or better than the HWL radiators do, but cost significantly less despite the fact that they are made with ~2x as much copper... Sure the NexXxoS rads aren't as perfectly finished, but unless you enter your radiators into beauty pageants it doesn't really matter as they (Alphacool) are perfectly acceptable in terms of finish.
The Alphacool rads also scale much better over a far wider range of fan speeds than the HWL rads do, which tend to be more specialized. An example of this is my running my UT60 240 with 4x Koolance 2600rpm fans in push-pull (5.4mmH2O and 106CFM each), and seeing a linear gain in cooling relative to fan speed. I will be adding a pair of 15-20mm Shrouds on the push side and 7mm shrouds on the pull side in the next few weeks to see if it performs any differently, but also because they look cool lol.


Regardless of which rad you choose, I really really suggest getting a 420 over a 360 and using push-pull instead of just one or the other; you get slightly more surface area than a 480, fewer dead-zones from the fans, and you take advantage of the space that you have much more fully.

Appreciate all the info..I have just been researching on this particular dilemma of mine. Bad thing is I have the white switch and dont want to wait for a revised panel. I have read that many are still waiting to get theirs for several weeks and some months. Plus I would rather spend my money on my h20 components. Only thing I need is to get top rad w/ fans and fittings. Which looks like its gonna be north of $300 since I have decided to get a 420 rad. Black Ice GTX 420 is the winner. I look forward to getting fittings to fit near that I/O panel.
bustacap22 is offline  
post #8 of 16 Old 03-17-2013, 12:46 PM
Who Watches the Watchmen?
 
nleksan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Ohio
Posts: 5,505
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 661
All you need to do is get a ruler, painter's tape, and a drill. Simply index off the front-most 140mm fan mount in drilling holes for the new rad; it's really incredibly easy, took me all of 10 minutes to do.

Another big benefit of the non-HWL radiators is that they are shorter, due to the fan spacing being 15mm instead of 20mm, so you have a noticeable amount of extra room at the rear that you don't get with the HWL units...

"The world breaks everyone and afterward many are strong at the broken places"Ernest Hemingway
sniper.gifS.T.A.L.K.E.R FAN CLUB aaskull.gif

~*~ THE TAO OF BACKUP ~*~

PLEASE DOUBLE-CHECK ANY ANSWERS I MAY PROVIDE, AS I AM HUMAN AND QUITE FALLIBLE
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Samsung Galaxy Nexus - Rooted & Running JBSourcery FINAL & LeanKernel Experimental
nleksan is offline  
post #9 of 16 Old 03-17-2013, 12:57 PM - Thread Starter
 
bustacap22's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 804
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by nleksan View Post

All you need to do is get a ruler, painter's tape, and a drill. Simply index off the front-most 140mm fan mount in drilling holes for the new rad; it's really incredibly easy, took me all of 10 minutes to do.

Another big benefit of the non-HWL radiators is that they are shorter, due to the fan spacing being 15mm instead of 20mm, so you have a noticeable amount of extra room at the rear that you don't get with the HWL units...

Ya I actually have my case torn apart as the moment and checking things out for my WC setup. The more I think about it, the more I plan on doing some modding on this case. Buddy of mine just gave me a 120 rad that he no longer needs. Anything I have to be concerned about running 3 rads as far as restriction/flow goes.

UT60 240
ST30 120
XT45 420.......deciding on this one
EK CPU Block
2 EK GPU Block
EK Bridge Parallel
Bitspower 150 res
Bitspower mod top pump kit
MCP655 pump variable speed w/ Bitspower mod kit. Thoughts
bustacap22 is offline  
post #10 of 16 Old 03-20-2013, 05:42 PM
Who Watches the Watchmen?
 
nleksan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Ohio
Posts: 5,505
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 661
Nope, the 120 rad will add so little restriction as to not be worth mentioning... The only radiators that would really have any effect on your flow rate would be Black Ice rads, but even then it is absolutely minimal compared to a single CPU or GPU block.

However, considering the number of parts you have water cooled, might I suggest going with the MCP35X pump instead? Not only does it provide more pressure, it is smaller, PWM controlled, and comes from the factory with the best-performing top already in place (thereby relieving the necessity of purchasing a pump top/mod kit as is so common for the D5's). I have two and they are absolutely great pumps, incredibly powerful considering how compact they are! I will be adding the second one into my loop whenever I decide to drop the $56 on the Swiftech MCP35X2-Housing (in white, of course!).

"The world breaks everyone and afterward many are strong at the broken places"Ernest Hemingway
sniper.gifS.T.A.L.K.E.R FAN CLUB aaskull.gif

~*~ THE TAO OF BACKUP ~*~

PLEASE DOUBLE-CHECK ANY ANSWERS I MAY PROVIDE, AS I AM HUMAN AND QUITE FALLIBLE
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Samsung Galaxy Nexus - Rooted & Running JBSourcery FINAL & LeanKernel Experimental
nleksan is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off