Asetek LCLC 120 Lapped! - Overclock.net

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post #1 of 10 Old 06-07-2010, 07:28 PM - Thread Starter
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I decided after all this time to Lap the serrations off the bottom of the base plate and between that and the Artic Silver 5 I have a good 9C drop in temps

I just used 1200 grit wet/dry and took about 30 mins to do.
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post #3 of 10 Old 06-07-2010, 10:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Don't need to use a harsh grit like that. I used the 1200 and it took it off super fast. doesn't require any hard labor at all.

Sorry don't have a camera to take any. but I left the Rad in place undone the pump/base and had the machine laid on it's side. I put a pad over the edge of the puter and a paper to catch anything that may sand off, and took about 3 mins checking now and then. I was careful to hold the pump not to stress the hoses or connections and I held it in place while I sanded using a large metal square padlock that I know was a flat surface.
Came out great and shiny too.
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post #4 of 10 Old 06-07-2010, 10:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BinaryBummer View Post
Don't need to use a harsh grit like that. I used the 1200 and it took it off super fast. doesent require any hard labor at all.
You grinded it down to copper with 1200? I cant even imagine that being flat in any way.


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post #5 of 10 Old 06-07-2010, 11:15 PM - Thread Starter
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It is not grinding it is very very fine. The base plate is copper and all I did is removed the serrations that causes a gap between the surfaces.
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post #6 of 10 Old 06-07-2010, 11:22 PM
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as far as i see it its already copper sanding it with the 1200 should be ok

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post #7 of 10 Old 06-08-2010, 12:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Thank's
Yes it is a all copper base. On some base plates they have a slight texture to them from being milled that way. I figured that in order to get a better cooling temp I need to rid those serration textures off of it to make it perfectly flat to make the best contact between the CPU and Base plate. I have done this on older CPU coolers as well. It does improve it all together so long as you don't hone it wrong.
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post #8 of 10 Old 06-12-2010, 12:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboHertz View Post
Didn't even start at a low grit like 400? Oh, and piks plz.
400 grit would tear the base plate up. It would leave wost grooves n it then the factory milling is.

1200 is super fine and it is good for near polishing.
stepping up to 1500 then 2000 grit wet/dry will polish it to a mirror.

I am surprised so many don't know how fine a 1200 wet/dry is. Copper is fairly soft metal and it can scar easy so you never need anything lower then a 1000 grit to start with.
I really need to get a camera and do a pic on it to show. No matter on lapping you have to make sure you use a sanding block that is perfectly flat and dosent bend. Otherwise you can hone to deep if you use your hand or flexible type of block.
Cheers!
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post #9 of 10 Old 06-12-2010, 12:19 AM
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ya i used 400 grit on my car lol and 100 on boat bottoms at work, im about to put my heat sink back on so should i just hit the heat sink and the processor with 1200 for like ten min?

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post #10 of 10 Old 06-12-2010, 12:28 AM
 
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well for starters pics or it never happened

and when people tell you use 400 what they mean is you start with 400 and progressively go up to higher grit sand paper so what they are saying is you started by using 1200 and tt be perfectly honest lapping with 1200 grit sand paper you gonna get a **** result because the base is most likely gonna have dips and curves in it the only way your going to get those is if you start with 400 grit.

Oh and one final thing its doesn't mean jack s*** if it is copper or not it does not matter

B-roca - sorry if that is not what you wanted to hear i just tell it like it is.
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