Overclock.net banner

need help with custom loop - Laptop

1K views 24 replies 4 participants last post by  Los Hog 
#1 ·
As the title says. I am looking for help building a custom loop for my laptop.

To start-
This is a DV6000 (DV6045nr) which had the notorious heat issues. The sys board had a Go 7200m in it which I successfully replaced with a like system board from a newer model which has a Go 8400m in it. Everything is working BUT gets way too hot. The CPU will hit 90c (95max per amd) at idle with power save off. If power save on, it clocks it down to 800mhz from 1.8mhz and idles about 60c.

I thought it would be cool to water cool it but am running into a few road blocks which are probably to be expected with this type of build.

The Build-
Currently it is stock. I do have a total budget of $180usd which will include a cooler pad.

The heat output total for loop is going to be about ~42W if using specs from interweb. 31W-CPU, 11W-GPU.

Questions-
Will a 40mm x2 rad be efficient for this?
Will I have to use a Reservoir?
Is there a certain flow rate I should be looking for?
Will a RAD with 3/8" barb be OK in a loop with 1/4" plumbing if I just use reducers?
Is there other block options then the 2 I located with adjustable mounting options?
Will this work for CPU and GPU with only 2 mounting locations?
http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=393

Board with mounting points circled.
2rgi0y9.jpg


Current Projected Parts List-
RAD- http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=336&products_id=22275
PUMP- http://www.kidwind.org/xcart/product.php?productid=24&cat=79&page=1
BLOCK GPU- http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=393
BLOCK CPU- http://www.xoxide.com/koolance-gpu-220.html (if block for GPU doesn't work)
BARBS- Were going to be quick connects, but I think standard are going to be a forced option with budget.

This is kinda where I'm at. Any help or advice is much appreciated.

Thanks,
Outlaw
 
See less See more
1
#2 ·
That pump looks far to weak to me. Can you afford a DDC?
Quote:
Will a RAD with 3/8" barb be OK in a loop with 1/4" plumbing if I just use reducers?
I think you are mixing up threads with diameters, what size tube are you useing?

Are you making like a houseing for the pump/and rads?
 
#3 ·
Everything would need to fit into a pad cooler similar to this. If I can find one for sale, it would be this cooler. Silverstone Noble Breeze NB01B


Unless my understanding of the rad was incorrect, it is a 3/8" barb and I would be using 1/4 plumbing. I would then need a reducer 3/8 to 1/4 to connect the rad.

The reason I chose the pump was that it was used in another laptop cooler build and it runs off USB power (2-6v). If I used a "normal" pump, wouldn't that possibly push the water too fast and not cool properly either?

I would have to go through the parts again to see if budget allows. It is a fixed amount.

Thanks for the reply!
Outlaw
 
#5 ·
Thanks.

Is there any adjustable ones I should be looking at? I couldn't find much. Even if they show not hugely successful for upto a couple hundred watts, this build is going to be maybe 50W max between CPU and GPU.

Thanks,
Outlaw
 
#6 ·
:::UPDATE:::
Found some specs on the pump. At 4.5v, it pumps 2lmin or just under 32gph. For the low overall heat source I think this should be OK. The DDC pump would put me over budget.

Is a res necessary in this type of loop? can I just go PUMP>CPU>GPU>RAD?

My ultimate goal is to be able to get the cpu down to manageable temps while the cpu is at its normal 1.8Ghz. Right now at 1.8Ghz, it doesn't take long to hit 90c. Using in power save, everything is gravy. Right now, at idle 800Mhz, its 43C.

Thanks,
Outlaw
 
#10 ·
Cool. Think the dual 40mm would be good here? Just not sure on good 40mm fans.. seems kinda pricey for so little. I was maybe looking for a shroud 60mm to 40mm.. anything to maybe look for on either of those?

Thanks,
Outlaw
 
#11 ·
I think the 2x 40mm the radiator is a bit to small.

I have an idea for your: You could try to create your own custom radiator from some heatpipe based GPU cooler.
Cut away the base + cut open the heat pipes in both ends & remove the contents of the heat pipes. Attach tubing to the heat pipes so that water can flow thru all the pipes. This should give a radiator that has much larger surface area than the 2x 40mm radiator, but still is reasonable small & flat.
 
#13 ·
Yes, that is exactly what I was thinking.
A larger cooler with more heat pipes would of course perform better, but pretty much any cooler would be better than the tiny 2x 40mm radiator.
I suggest that you buy the cooling pad first though, then you can figure out exactly how large radiator + what kind of fans you will be able to fit inside it.
 
#14 ·
Thanks. I was looking to get more info on this since it obviously isn't a big thing (water cooled laptop) and isn't a lot of info on it.

If I do the water cooling, it will give me a little more "play" in overall dimensions on the heatsink because I could use that area plus whatever is under the pad which appears to be about 2" total height of most pads. I think I narrowed down to Thermaltake Massive 23 CS as my first choice or the LX or ST as the second. The LX and ST seem to be restrictive as far as moving the fan and customizing goes though.

Is there any that maybe I missed that are a min. of 14" wide and around ~50?.

Thanks,
Outlaw

::EDIT::
Looks like the NZXT Cryo LX might be a better choice then above. It has a 'Cage" for 3x120mm fans. The caged area is about 25mm tall. I may be able to remove a fan or 2 and put the components in there. Does this sound like it would be more doable then with the original choices above? Thanks
 
#15 ·
so this i guess is a bump and update.

Guy I work with said he may be able to make me a block for the CPU, GPU and CHP.

Using 1/4" plumbing would give me some routing options in the block as well as into a cooler pad.

Block dimensions: 1/2" thick x 4" wide (at widest point) x 6.5" long (at longest point)

Option 1:
Pros:
Would be least "invasive" and only have 1 hole needing a plug leaving fewer risk for leaks.
Run over CPU and CHP.
Cons:
May not be as effective as pulling heat away through water.
Inlet would come in from battery bay leaving power supply use only.
1 plugged port leaving risk for leaks

Option 2:
Pros:
Move inlet to come from fan bay which is already removed.
Run over CPU and CHP
Only 2 plugged ports needed
Cons:
2 plugged ports leaving risk for leaks.

Option 3:
Pros:
Move inlet to come from fan bay which is already removed.
Run over CPU and CHP and GPU
Routed for better exposure to heat sources.
Cons:
4 plugged ports leaving risk for leaks



Any thoughts, ideas?

Thanks,
Outlaw
 
#17 ·
lol, yeah, i was thinking the same or a gpu cooler, which I have looked for parts in both gpu and chipset coolers. If this block thing doesn't work out, I may have to get the chipset coolers.

I liked option 3 as well. Hopefully he can find a block of scrap this big to use. One site I found wanted $65 just for a block 3"x6"x1" which is actually not big enough come to find out. I may be able to use 4"x6.5"x.5"-.75" which will still cost about the same.

He also mentioned just using a .25" sheet of copper with the existing heatsink/fan which would probably do wonders of cooling. I brought up "how cool would it be to do?" lol. I have searched quite a bit and there isn't too many clean water cooled installs which is what i'm trying for.

He said option 2 is going to be the more feasible option with the equipment available to him. I think we were just overruled. lol

Thanks,
Outlaw

edit:::
If I can get my hands on the parts needed for the right price along with the Cryo LX pad, I could easily (with slight mod) get a Scythe SCVSG-1000 Setsugen with possibly a small res where the 120's sit.
 
#19 ·
Thats what i'm hoping for is that "wow factor" plus 100x better cooling. Worst case (but still better then stock is going to be the copper sheet with some 40mm fans on the bottom if the block is going to be too costly. I should hopefully hear something for a ballpark price by Monday. I will keep this updated until I start a build log (hopefully).

Outlaw
 
#20 ·
He said, the block cutout is about $104.... umm... lol hm.. what to do now. lol

Look at still using copper block for water cooling or get the CHP blocks and hope I can cool the CHP properly since the blocks will only cover the CPU and GPU leaving a less then optimal cooling solution as the only way to cool the CHP...

What to do?!
Outlaw
 
#21 ·
Well I got a call and text earlier. He was able to make a block out of 1/4" copper for free using scrap. The idea was brought up to run 1/4" copper tubing along the surface, looping it around instead of trying to do all the work inside the block. 1/4" slab of copper I think will definitely be beneficial but the water loop will replace a wimpy 40-60mm fan internally with a 120mm fan/rad and just plan look cooler then some dumb heatsink only. lol

Top is the 1/4" copper, bottom is the cardboard template
 
#22 ·
Currently waiting on the block to get shaved down at the mounting points so it will sit flush with the chips. Once all is said and done, two tests will be done. 1- 1/4" block only for cooling, 2- block with 1/4" WC block

Also have the mobo out on RMA for the DVD-Rom not detected/working.

While waiting I had a question or few.

1. Should I run 2 of the pumps (http://www.kidwind.org/xcart/product.php?productid=24). If I calculated right, they are about 32GPH at 5V?
2. Should I use quick connects at the OE fan grille to allow for laptop remove from cooling pad or just secure laptop to cooling pad?
3. Do you think this RAD/FAN would be efficient enough?

For the pumps, I wasn't sure if 1 pump would be effecient enough to push through the entire loop on the block plus the Rad. A Res is still up in the air at this point depending on the cooler pad room and mounting options.

Thanks,
Outlaw
 
#23 ·
Ok. What do you guys think of this HS/F to be used in a WC loop?

300

LINK

It is an 80mm fan mounted to the HS. The mounting points could give me some alternative options like mounting to back of display with ease so I could run without a pad if desired. It would still take some fabrication of the HS itself to fit the plumbing though. Oh, and it is also 30bucks less!

Thanks,
Outlaw
 
#24 ·
Update:::

Copper block is being fitted with 1/4" ID 3/8"OD plumbing over 1/4" thick copper block covering all chips.

I will likely have to get some 1/4" barbs for the copper tubing. Looking like it would be pretty hard to stretch 1/4" tube over 3/8" even with heat.

I was also considering this laptop pad as it already has a pump (usb), rad, plumbing, fan and is already mounted.
280

I couldn't find any reviews on it though but have found for 75 plus shipping.

Even a cheaper heatsink, pump (usb or 12v), plumbing, pad will cost more then $75. Only hesitant because of no known reviews on cooler pad
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top