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Posts by CTRLurself

What's your room temperature? All things cooling related are all about "temperature over ambient" or "delta temps" for short. Is there a significant temperature difference between what is reported in your BIOS, and what's reported in Windows at idle? What temperature are you taking as the "CPU Temp" because there are actually multiple sensors on a given chip?
First off, set the CPU back to stock settings - you have to get things normalized at stock settings before you overclock them. Odds are the cooler isn't mounted correctly and it has poor contact with the CPU itself. Dis-assemble the mount for the H80i, clean the thermal compound off it. Make sure the back plate (if it has one) is snug fitting, and sits tightly to the motherboard. Clean the CPU, and make sure there is no compound on the motherboard itself. Apply new...
Keep in mind, that's assuming you run diagnostics on stuff and screenshot it to prove it's working properly. If you need to sell it quickly it'll likely be more in the low to mid 300 range.
I'm giving you crap because I'm the same way - there are people who've known me for 10 years that still call me CTRL - I've been using that handle since the Battle.NET edition of WC2 back in the day.Glad to see it was fixed without issue, because that bar looks awesome - never seen another like it integrated into a build....Now to actually plan my 3D printed copper build.
I found it funny that you put your handle on your name badge - most people put their actual name. So you will forever be known as Repo both on and off teh interwebz.
Your video card isn't recognized correctly. Device manager is showing a r9 200 series, the specs say it's a 7970. That'll definitely cause graphics crashes if your computer doesn't know what GPU it actually has. I have a 7970 on old drivers (don't know exact number) that actually shows up as a 7970 - odds are that's your problem.
Probably 400/450-ish if you parted it out (not including case, since I don't know what it is). If it's well built and you're selling it assembled to a non-techie person, probably $500-550 easily. More like $650 if you're lucky.
1) PSU testers are "unloaded" voltage - meaning that the power supplies voltages will vary under load. 2) When you us a PSU tester, you have to do it several times. Sometimes the PG signal is bad, if it's 0ms it means the board is trying to boot before the power has stabilized and can cause it to blow components. If it's abnormally high, the motherboard will just not boot. Honestly with multiple dead CPUs and motherboards, it's probably your power supply. Get an RMA on...
Run Western Digital Data Life Guard on the drive. Save a screenshot of the results, with the serial number and model info visible. Assuming you can do that: $35 -45 shipped should be doable. Most people won't care about RAID capability on a 500GB disk, so you're realistically selling a WD Black. That's what that $35-45 price is for.
Can of worms time (as most fan-direction questions are): --What kind of hardware do you have in that case, and how far is it overclocked? mITX builds in general don't need 5 fans, and that's just making a lot of noise for no real benefit. -- What heat sink is on your processor and which way do its fans point? --Better fans will have more impact on your temps than their direction (assuming you don't do something stupid with them). Honestly, unless you're running a heatsink...
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