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Posts by CTRLurself

Depends on the rest of your system... The card itself consumes around 125W, so you should be fine as long as you don't have tons of hard drives and a 130W CPU overclocked to heck. THAT being said, That is not that great of a power supply. Check out the recommended PSU thread, and pick something from there that will fit your budget: http://www.overclock.net/t/183810/faq-recommended-power-supplies#user_500-599W
Well, most printers you're likely to own on your own, will be an DFF/FFM -style printer (those acronyms are the same thing), which will most commonly print either ABS or PLA - these parts wouldn't be suited to be structural parts in a car, so you'll mostly be printing trim pieces. I've made a few badge replacements with my printer, and that's about all the car bits you'd likely want to 3D print. Machining parts, however is far more useful. This also generally requires...
I own both the TJ-08B and the Node 804 - the TJ-08 is anything but silent. The Node 804 is much easier to silence just because you have the ability to fit more, lower speed fans into it. My Node804 is dead silent, my TJ-08 will never be.
Well don't be discouraged, the biggest thing is you have to take your time with them. They are very picky machines, but with proper, careful maintenance they can work very reliably. The last convention I was at my printer was cranking away for 3 days straight. The Dallas Makerspace was there with their machines and they kept failing prints... It's all about how well you treat your machine and keep some spare parts on hand. I'll keep adding all the info I've been looking...
There ARE much cheaper options, but they also look a LOT worse. That one is just a simple "here's a slot with a flat wire" which is why I've used it before. That's actually mid-to-high price for a riser, but it's the simplest one I've ever seen in terms of making it look better. Plastidip would be a good option and save a lot of time compared to the old razerblade method... and then you also don't have to worry about accidentally nicking/cutting a wire and ruining it.
Talked with SeaSonic and got my hands on an awesome little site to order any replacement cables you could want for their power supplies: http://www.btosinte.com/Cables-for-PS2-power-supply_c7.htm How have people not posted about this site before? There are people on these forums who've pain-stakingly built new cables for these power supplies, and the cables are readily available, cheaply!!!
Alright, then you have to go with old-school Plan-B; Find a riser card where the individual wires in it are visible (similar to IDE cables), take a razor blade (or exacto knife) to cut the wires to be individualized. Then you can cable wrap the result. We used to do this to make round-IDE cables, before they made actual rounded-IDE cables... old school cable management required some crazy crap. [edit] somethign like this:...
1) That's how you choose loop-order. Realistically speaking, the order of your loop will affect temps by a degree or two at most, so plumb it however it looks best.2) Every mod needs a dog
If you're into voiding warranties, you can always cheat and cut a notch out of the end of the slot so your GPU will fit into it. Ever seen a server motherboard? Most of the slots don't have an end on them, so you can slot an x16 device into an x8 or even x1 slot. The device will automatically throttle down to the lower slot speed... in term of gaming, there's about a 4-8% performance drop between an x4 and an x16 slot, so that's always an option.
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