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Posts by CTRLurself

Not really the point of this thread, so: http://lmgtfy.com/?q=gigabyte+error+4e
It's either power supply or motherboard. POST codes will always be 2 digits. It isn't, odds are it's your board that's toast. I'd call EVGA and see what they have to say.CMOS battery will generate a notice that the battery is dead/missing. I already said, "If it doesn't beep at you, and you know the PSU is good, then the motherboard is bad." but my only question is, did you plug a BIOS speaker into the header on the motherboard? That motherboard doesn't have a speaker...
Sorry, thought I had replied before, guess the post didn't go through.Try POSTing with the RAM and everything taken out except for CPU, PSU and Motherboard (and make sure there's a speaker on the MoBo because a lot don't have one built in). If it doesn't beep at you, and you know the PSU is good, then the motherboard is bad.[edit] just looked closer at the pic, your motherboard doesn't appear to have a speaker built-in. Pick one up and see if it's trying to beep at you.
If the motherboard won't at least attempt to POST, with only the 24-pin and the 4/8-pin CPU power cable, then there's definitely something wrong with either the MoBo or PSU. It should at least give an error code that the GPU isn't detected, or that it has no bootable device. Per the specs, those are the only two cables that should be required for your computer to attempt to boot. Period.The issue is, it's nearly impossible to separate MoBo from PSU problems without having...
Most likely you need to flash to the latest BIOS while you have the i7 installed, then swap in the Xeon. The 5650 wasn't a launch CPU, and the ASUS WS boards are notoriously picky about what CPU's they'll POST with.
That's unfortunate just because those never leave clean cuts and they take a while to heal fully. At least it was minor **I find it humorous that the emoji I used is the "Thumb" smiley... Just thought I'd throw that out there**
1) Google "TakeOwnership" 2) Install it 3) ??? 4) Profit!
That drive should be fine then. And I had to make sure you ran the correct test because other hard drive diagnostics have a "surface test" and it takes 20 minutes and tells you nothing - hence my confusion.
The surface scan is meaningless, you have to run the long test.
For your SATA controller to recognize a RAID, it has to be in RAID mode. This means it is now looking for all disks, including those that are marked as being a member disk in a RAID. If you were to boot a hard drive diagnostic, it queries the SATA controller, and it will report that there is 1 hard drive (your RAID) instead of 3 individual ones. The hard drive diagnostic software will not be able to test this drive properly. It will either say there is no drive, or it...
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