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Posts by gordesky1

Pretty sure they cancelled everyone orders from what the slick deals comments said:( I was going to jump on it cause i need a new psu but knew it was too good to be true and figure i wait and see what they do first..
Hmm never thought of that.. That does make sense maybe that was the problem, And is a problem with this power and cooling. will need to look at that psu and check that out.Would love to use it again cause its a great strong psu. Ony issue i had with it is not modular and that psu has tons of thick heavy cables lolThe tagan 900watts is good too but its my uncles which he lost most of the cables for it which im very limited to it...Will check the 3.3v with my meter now...
Yep but what i meant about age is not the wear of age but how old the hardware is. Cause it seems like some motherboards shows a voltage right at 12v and i notice its with newer power supplys.But yea i never trust software monitoring after i got my first meter years ago:)Does that apply to the 3.3v rail too? Cause i know my first power and cooling psu had a problem with the 3.3v rail which i had to rma it, Cause the 3.3v in hwin kept droping till one day it hit...
This. My 12v rail is always below 12 and goes down to 11,6v with hwininfo but when i tested with my meter it reads 12.02 at load and 12,09 idle but pretty steady.Even in bios its wrong reads 11.8-11,9.Now i see others reading at 12v or higher. but i think boards cant detect some psu readings right, maybe when the psu are older?My 2 psus are pretty old power and cooling 750 old version about 7 years old and a tagan bz 900watts which was made back in 2008 currently...
Wanted to give a update, I finally found a 1675 listed under 1215us not sure how i found it lol... http://www.ebay.com/itm/152403079131?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT He wanted 37$ plus 18 for shipping, But told him my story and asked if he will take 30$ shipped and he took it. It was as is but looked in great shape which it is when i got it today. Seller said he couldn't find the adapter for it but said it ran 10years ago when it was...
Welp i had to shut it to redo the hot glue on it and when i was doing that i herd a clunk on the 1675 and it cracked more at one of the hinges to the point pulled the bolts right out of the rear plastic... i had to break the rest of the small plastic behind the hinge to even open the screen.. Tho it seems like Compaq might've put a metal plate behind it because the screws and bolts are still bolted to that and the screen opens normal still. but at the moment it seems...
They not my pics.But at the moment i have hot glue on them for now but yea hot glue will give over time.. But yep its around the hinges and the hinges seem fine not too loose or not to tight, i just think its from old age and the plastic is trying to give out from stress.The 700us you can find the parts most of the time. But the 1600 series there are none on ebay. Mainly with the 14.1inch screen like the 1675. Let alone the hinges for the 700us is 29$+The story of...
Im not sure if this is the right thread for this but i figure someone would know in this thread about this. Hopefully I have a 2 old laptops compaq 700us and a compaq 1675 that has cracks by the hinges that needs repaired. I bought a plastic welder at harbor freight which i tried welding the laptops cracks and pretty much the stuff just falls right off like its not sticking.. Just not bounding too it as it should.. The sticks that came with it says its for tpo teo and...
The wattsman drivers also have issues with my msi 390 card too, Before i used chris modded bios doing anything in wattsman will do what simon card did, Puting the memory down to 150mhz till i restart or do a driver reinstall.. But than i notice it seems like wattsman doeisnt like dual monitors also? Removing my 2nd dvi monitor and just leaving my main hdmi 50inch connected wattsman works great for me. Enable dual monitors again bang driver will either crash and go to...
Yea when i took the board out i said holy **** and when i took the heat sink off yea.. lol That's why i always have cooling on front and back of vrms on no matter what build i have after that happen. Probably can happen to any board when overclocking high and no cooling on the vrms, Mainly when water cooling cause no air flowing around them. Even on this saberkitty the vrms would run hot if i don't have any fans blowing front and back of them.
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